Terry Burtz rear main seal

daveymc29

daveymc29

Well-known member
I have a refreshed engine, that is not all new babbit or bearings, just refitted and it runs really well. Only problem I find is that the real seal area seems to leak worse than any I've seen. I'm thinking of buying a Burtz rear seal and having it put in place, or doing it myself. What all is involved? I'm no at all familiar with them?

The Ace Mechanic (Seals not so much)
 
daveymc29 said:
I have a refreshed engine, that is not all new babbit or bearings, just refitted and it runs really well. Only problem I find is that the real seal area seems to leak worse than any I've seen. I'm thinking of buying a Burtz rear seal and having it put in place, or doing it myself. What all is involved? I'm no at all familiar with them?

The Ace Mechanic (Seals not so much)
Click to expand...



Look at Snyders online catalog for part A-6336 and then click on "Installation Instructions".
 
Thanks guys, I see this as an off to the machinist adventure soon. Nust spent 5 days toes in the air at our local hospital and will need some help getting all this done.

Dave Mc Arthur
 
Dave,
Installing a Burtz seal is a pretty time consuming and somewhat expensive venture. Before making the change, I would try to track down the cause of the leak. Usually, a rear main leak is caused by excessive end play of the crankshaft, excessive rear main bearing clearance, an issue with how the rear cap is set and sealed or the rear seal is improperly installed allowing for oil to pass around it. A restriction in the rear main cap or drain tube is another cause of leakage. Every one of the leaks I have encountered over my years of working on Model A's has been caused by one of the above reasons.
If you have access to an engine stand, test the engine after making corrections. It is much easier to make a few attempts to correct the leak if you don't have to test it in the car. Make sure you let the engine come up to full operating temp when verifying your work. It often takes 45 minutes on a stand to see a leak start without a load on the engine. Good luck with your engine.
Good day!
 
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Did you screw the oil return pipe too far into the rear main cap? If so, it will block the oil passage and result in a leak. I did that and had a huge oil leak.
 
I never had the pan off this engine. Wish I had, Might have saved me a lot of trouble. An older gentleman had built the engine for a car he was building and I inderstand he did a ring and valve job then tightened if the bearings and called it good. Price seemed right, so I bought it and when my $8 K rebuild developed a water leak near the bottom of cylinder #3 I had a few friends over and we exchanged the bad for the unknown. It really runs well except for a massive oil leak at the rear of the engine. I just got out of the hospital with congestive heart failure so I am not going to do much for a while, as I am still a bit weak to tackle a days work pulling that engine,
 
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