Taper Axle Treating

NormC

NormC

Member
I know that most if not all of you recommend the taper of the axle to be clean of any material prior to installing the brake drums, but I have a question concerning the use of an Anti-Gallant material applied to the taper.

Does anybody have any experience using an Anti-Gallant on the taper?

At work, we will apply an anti-gallant to one particular nut and washer. We will torque this nut to 7,000 in/lbs and then “stretched” and additional 45 degrees of rotation.

I have cleaned the axle and drum and lapped the two surfaces.

Thanks,
Norm
 
I don't put anything on my clean lapped tapers. I don't have any experience with anti-galling stuff but anything between the 2 surfaces I would think would lessen the friction which should be driving the car.
 
7000 in. pounds equals 583 ft. pounds. That's way more than the 220 foot pounds recommended for 1935-48 rear axle nut.
 
Norm, if the axle nut is correctly torqued on your properly lapped shaft and drum, there will be no galling. Galling is caused by the friction and sliding between two metal surfaces, which will not happen id installed correctly.

If, on the other hand, you are concerned about the cusswords and hair pulling force required to separate a drum from an axle, don't be, as that drum had been installed correctly, and you may be using incorrect tooling to remove the drum.
 
Anti-Gallant material would defeat the purpose of the taper. The taper is to lock the two parts together and provide the maximum friction between them. An anti-gall substance would act as a lubricant, just the opposite effect.
 
Any type of material between the axle and hub takes space. You would have a .0005 or thicker film between the axle and hub. Your lapped surfaces dry make the tight metal to metal contact required to drive the wheel. In my opinion the key is just a safety devise. If the key has a worn line down the sides the axle is loose in the hub. This is the reason for such a long taper so it locks together. G.M.
 
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