Tail lite switch

V

vern hodgson

Well-known member
Working on my tailite began to notice an odd smell, was tired and called it a day, disconnected battery. Next morning,, returned to scene of the crime. Again odd smell, discovered repop tail lite switch shaft had became stuck inside housing and was getting quite hot. Is this a common problem, why is it happening, any comments or corrections?
 
I recommend you get a switch made by A&L.....they use a bronze bushing that won’t stick, and recommend by Tom Endy here. We put one in my A 15 years ago and it has never stuck.
 
A&L now only sells wholesale. Bratton's carry the A&L stoplight switch and they are good quality with bushings ay each end.

Tom Endy
 
Simple answer...Some people insist on thinking that the cheep part is just as good as the more expensive part...never happens in the real world...Ernie in Arizona
 
Yep, it is pretty simple and can usually be fixed easily.

But the better made one works and seems to last.
 
I have known for a long time about the 30 -31 switch that A&L is making.

Do they make a 28 29 switch with bronze bushings?
 
Vern, I'm thinking you have a 28/29 switch as the problem you speak of is not unheard of on these switches. The bad news is ............... NO A&L does not reproduce these switches. The possibly good news is that, if you're handy or know someone who does welding, you can remedy the situation. The problem is that the back end of the rod that goes through the switch is not as long (on the back end) as the rod on an original switch. This rod is pulled forward when the brake pedal is depressed. If the pedal has a significant amount of travel, the tail end of the rod disappears inside the switch housing. Since it is spring loaded, once it's inside the hosing, it moves sideways and gets lodged inside. A piece rod of equal diameter at least 1 inch long welded on to the back of the rod will rectify the problem. Otherwise, even if you buy a new repro switch, they all have the same "too short" length and the same tendency to "capture" the rod when the pedal moves too far. (As a side note ................ A good 4 wheel brake adjustment might help by limiting the travel in the brake pedal.)

Good luck,

Bob Bader
 
bobbader said:
Vern, I'm thinking you have a 28/29 switch as the problem you speak of is not unheard of on these switches. The bad news is ............... NO A&L does not reproduce these switches. The possibly good news is that, if you're handy or know someone who does welding, you can remedy the situation. The problem is that the back end of the rod that goes through the switch is not as long (on the back end) as the rod on an original switch. This rod is pulled forward when the brake pedal is depressed. If the pedal has a significant amount of travel, the tail end of the rod disappears inside the switch housing. Since it is spring loaded, once it's inside the hosing, it moves sideways and gets lodged inside. A piece rod of equal diameter at least 1 inch long welded on to the back of the rod will rectify the problem. Otherwise, even if you buy a new repro switch, they all have the same "too short" length and the same tendency to "capture" the rod when the pedal moves too far. (As a side note ................ A good 4 wheel brake adjustment might help by limiting the travel in the brake pedal.)

Exactly the problem, would an original switch have the same problem? Yes I have considered the welding of an extension. Thanks for the tip.
Click to expand...
 
bobbader defines the problem perfectly. Here is my solution:
I thread the rear end of the rod in the switch. I then double nut the very end of the rod so it cannot be pulled into the switch body, where it can become trapped. I then put a spring in line at the front of the switch. This allows the rod to be pulled forward, enough to make the brake switch work, but prevents the rod from being pulled into the switch, even as the brake pedal continues downward. Experiment with springs to get the proper tension. Works great with lasting result, even between brake adjustments.
 
Russ/40 said:
bobbader defines the problem perfectly. Here is my solution:
I thread the rear end of the rod in the switch. I then double nut the very end of the rod so it cannot be pulled into the switch body, where it can become trapped. I then put a spring in line at the front of the switch. This allows the rod to be pulled forward, enough to make the brake switch work, but prevents the rod from being pulled into the switch, even as the brake pedal continues downward. Experiment with springs to get the proper tension. Works great with lasting result, even between brake adjustments.
Click to expand...

Good idea, I now have in hand an original switch which actually has a hole thru the shaft as if to nstall a cotter pin. Any one see this on any other original switches?
 
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