tail light stays on

Tom: I spent some time with your photograph above and a sketch pad/pencil: I think the upper photo (the 3 finger switch photo) the switch plate to the left (6 rivets) is or can be used to have a three position switch (park-off-on) of the fluted headlights.

The 9 rivet switch plate DEFINITELY is for a twolight setup.

And the lower photo definitely is for the fluted - but we knew that.

Curious to know more on this 6 rivet plate. I've never seen one like that before.

Joe K
 
Joe K said:
I wish I had your solution to the tail light. T-light should be on with either parking or headlight - but certainly not on while switch is OFF. Best I can suggest is to start at the tail-light and follow that wire back to the switch-plate, and then see if and when the three dimples hit it to make it work. You should be able to "simulate" the function of the switch by doing a three point jump (or making a triangle shaped jumper out of a piece of sheet aluminum.)

Good luck.

Joe K
Click to expand...

I fixed the stay on problem... simple case of the tail light wire being attached to the wrong contact. Probably hasn't worked in 20 years (the time my dad owned it).

For now, the system works... The headlights I have seem original... I guess someone could have put different reflectors in to give two light function... hard to say.

The switch seems to be a Ford part, and appears to be in good condition.

more stuff to ponder. I'll have to keep my eyes open for correct stuff.

rob
 
Joe K said:
Tom: I spent some time with your photograph above and a sketch pad/pencil: I think the upper photo (the 3 finger switch photo) the switch plate to the left (6 rivets) is or can be used to have a three position switch (park-off-on) of the fluted headlights.

The 9 rivet switch plate DEFINITELY is for a twolight setup.

And the lower photo definitely is for the fluted - but we knew that.

Curious to know more on this 6 rivet plate. I've never seen one like that before.

Joe K
Click to expand...

Both the 6 contact and 9 contact plates in the top picture are only for the TWOLITE headlamps. The 6 contact plate may be an old replacement rather than OEM. That's one more item that need to be researched at the Benson Ford Reaserch Center next to the museum.:)

I just studied that 6 contact plate again, and it does appear to be for the fluted lights and used with the same switch unit used with the later Twolight unit. I'm going to have to dig it out and study it some more now.:confused:
 
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The good thing about all my tracing out last night is that I now know how to modify the available twolight switch plate to make it work against a twolight 3 finger switch and properly feed a single light fluted headlight setup.

It will work like it should - well, I might have an extra position formerly known as "High Beam."

I know. I'll mount a 6V spotlight pointing back over the bed so I can load hooch at night and avoid the revenuers...

Kidding.

Thanks everyone!

Joe K
 
Based upon Tom W's advice that I was misinterpreting the light socket, I plugged a single pole light in and it works just fine.

Next I moved to replace the dash light... when I jiggled it, it came on. Hmmm... checked the light switch... it was off. Ok, so I've got another one plugged into the wrong terminal. I'll move that one around next weekend.

I also checked again on each position of the switch... parking lights, off, low beams, and holy cow, high beams... I just hadn't noticed the different detent and the difference in the lights is marginal... I can see them hitting higher on the wall on the high beam setting.

Ok, so I think that except for the dash light, my lights are working well... I don't know enough about what stock looks like to know if I've got some sort of Frankenstein deal... or that is the way it came... My '29 is late enough in '29 to be at the cross over point between two light and single light set ups.

A couple of questions:

1. What are the connections to the switch supposed to look like... what style of connector is used? If anyone took a short cut, this would be the place since it is hidden from view.

2. My buttons on the switch are a little loose, and do not engage the detents very well... there is almost no feeling of a bump as you move the switch through the various positions... and, as you are cruising down the road, the headlights will go on and off because the detent is not holding in place very well. Is there anything one can do about this?


Rob
 
We just went through this on a friend's Tudor. His two light system had no High beams. The aftermarket switches use a very light spring compared to originals. We eventually installed an old original to get him going. I was going to devise a fix for these switches, try and gain some more spring pressure to the detents. Not only are the weak at the switch for "feel" but having a loose contact may cause heat and burned contacts. There must be a way of shimming the spring behind the contacts.
 
Next I moved to replace the dash light... when I jiggled it, it came on. Hmmm... checked the light switch... it was off. Ok, so I've got another one plugged into the wrong terminal. I'll move that one around next weekend.
Click to expand...

What you have is probably stock. The dash light does NOT come on with the headlights.

In an earlier age one would push in and turn a bit to turn on the light - and push in again and turn back to turn it off. Simple, foolproof, and a real PIA when you drop the original cover on the pavement and then step on it while trying to find it.

And the new covers don't fit - you have to buy the whole switch/cover which is ALMOST but not quite the same. (Grr!)

Sorry. It's the end of the day and I'm coming back onto day shift and I'm tired.

Joe K
 
I am restoring my 1928 roadster, put in a new wiring harness the switch same as your photo the top middle and contact plate like bottom left hand picture. The headlights go on low and one goes on high beam and I have no horn but there is power at the middle prong
and power at 3 of the 9 brass contact points. Should all of the contact points be hot.
thanks Adrienne (Ady)
 
Ady said:
I am restoring my 1928 roadster, put in a new wiring harness the switch same as your photo the top middle and contact plate like bottom left hand picture. The headlights go on low and one goes on high beam and I have no horn but there is power at the middle prong
and power at 3 of the 9 brass contact points. Should all of the contact points be hot.
thanks Adrienne (Ady)
Click to expand...

You should replace the new contact plate with the original, if possible. Solder the new wires to the old connectors. The switch will then have compatible parts and operate as before. There are drawings of both to compare.

One high beam filament may be burned out, swap bulbs to check. Otherwise bad connection.

Center post is hot through horn. Horn operates when horn button contacts ground.

3 points are common to each other, one of them wired to generator, one to brake switch. Others make contact to them via rotating slider.
 
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