T5 Shift Problems

jrvariel48

jrvariel48

Well-known member
After some stop and go driving the other day(about an hour), I noticed it was getting difficult to shift into 1st gear. 2nd gear was also getting stiffer, although not as much. Fluid should be fine, as I filled it 4 months ago and it doesn't leak.
I'm thinking this is a linkage adjustment. I have a hydraulic clutch with a slave cylinder. Any thoughts??
Thanks Joe
 
Full of fluid and not leaking does not guarantee the workings of either the master, or the slave.

Typically a failing of either cylinder will show up as you describe. A gradual loss of service resulting in harder shifts. Particularly trying to engage first gear at a standstill.

To verify the action it helps to have a buddy work the pedal while you measure the action at the slave. Or even better if you remove enough flooring to view the slave.

First thing though, I would try bleeding the slave to remove the possibility of air having gotten into the picture.

Good Luck.
 
As far as I know, T5 has no adjustable linkage as the shifter is mounted atop the trans and operates the shift rail directly. Never saw any adjustable stuff in there, or anywhere else.
 
T5's have little nylon pads on the shift forks, that have a habit of cracking and falling off. Is the throw noticeably longer in 1 - 2?
 
If it is the nylon piece on the shifter they sell a replacement metal one or the nylon ones. The stock shifter does not have any stops and it is fairly easy to bend and/or crack the shift forks on the gears.
 
A bones said:
Full of fluid and not leaking does not guarantee the workings of either the master, or the slave.

Typically a failing of either cylinder will show up as you describe. A gradual loss of service resulting in harder shifts. Particularly trying to engage first gear at a standstill.

To verify the action it helps to have a buddy work the pedal while you measure the action at the slave. Or even better if you remove enough flooring to view the slave.

First thing though, I would try bleeding the slave to remove the possibility of air having gotten into the picture.

Good Luck.
Click to expand...

Good point A. I'm hoping to have some time this weekend to take a closer look. Thanks for the input
 
ponymare said:
It may also be the pilot bearing is trying to lock up on the input shaft.
Click to expand...

Ponymare, I'll be pulling the motor in a few weeks to install a fresh 8BA. That would be the best time for me to check that out. I did install a new pilot bearing about 1500 miles ago. If that's the problem, something else might be going on with the trans. Thanks for your response.
 
Mike51Merc said:
As far as I know, T5 has no adjustable linkage as the shifter is mounted atop the trans and operates the shift rail directly. Never saw any adjustable stuff in there, or anywhere else.
Click to expand...

Mike, the adjustment would be in the "linkage" that goes from the pedal to the master cylinder and also on the slave cylinder ram to the cross shaft arm
Thank you
 
JSeery said:
If it is the nylon piece on the shifter they sell a replacement metal one or the nylon ones. The stock shifter does not have any stops and it is fairly easy to bend and/or crack the shift forks on the gears.
Click to expand...

JSeery, I install a close ratio aftermarket shifter. I don't know if it has stops or not though. Thanks for your response
 
jrvariel48 said:
JSeery, I install a close ratio aftermarket shifter. I don't know if it has stops or not though. Thanks for your response
Click to expand...

A lot of the aftermarket shifters have the stops, but they will not work if they are not adjusted correctly. Might be something to check, if it does have the stops and they were not adjusted and tightened I would guess it would be possible for them to move and restrict the shifter throw.

Only you know how it has been driven, but if you are into hard shifts (as in pushing and pulling on the shifter hard) internal damage is a possibility. My grandkids were good at messing them up until I got the stops set up correctly! Think I have some damaged ones in the garage, I can post a photo later.
 
Does it grind while shifting into reverse? If so, then the clutch is not fully disengaging.


That can also make it more difficult to shift into forward gears also.


General rule of thumb in our shop is, disengage the clutch and count 1001,1002,1003, then shift it in reverse. If it does not grind, the clutch is fully disengaging. If it does grind then there is a clutch issue.

Bill
 
justpassinthru said:
Does it grind while shifting into reverse? If so, then the clutch is not fully disengaging.


That can also make it more difficult to shift into forward gears also.


General rule of thumb in our shop is, disengage the clutch and count 1001,1002,1003, then shift it in reverse. If it does not grind, the clutch is fully disengaging. If it does grind then there is a clutch issue.

Bill
Click to expand...

Thanks Bill, I'll check that on Saturday
 
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