T5 behind a flathead (shudder)

This post has been up and down for a while and this is what I have found when dealing with customers on clutches. The biggest issue developed with clutch chatter dealt with the wrong combination of clutch arms to pedal arms when doing conversions or the incorrect adjustment of the clutch throw out rod.

Each of the conversion units, either the aluminum cast body units or the hogs head conversion require a different rod adjustment length. If you have adjusted your pedal throw so the clutch starts to engage right off the floor you will have clutch chatter. As a guide the clutche should begin to engage when the pedal is in the area of 1 to 1 1/2" off the floor board and full engaged when half way thru the travel.
 
I just bought a disc from fort wayne clutch to put in, don,t have it back together yet, but noticed the disc material is almost a 1/16 inch thicker, than what I got in the kit I bought. And the segments in the disc material are staggered and there is more of them. I should have it running this week.
 
Hats off to Mr. Spadero. I've been working on these flatmotors all my life (a long time). Had clutch shudder since my T5 conversion. Started out pretty bad but got much better over time. Used your suggestion on adjusting clutch free play. IT'S GONE!!! Wonderful. Thank you so much. It goes to show you are never too old to learn.
 
I didn't catch what size clutch setup you were using but since it was a truck I'm assuming it was an 11" - as Dick said, clutch adjustment is everything and I'm glad you now have it right.

I had an 11" setup in a 39 Delux with stock 3-speed that nearly shuddered me to death in reverse and first. I found that if I let out the clutch without giving it any gas in either first or reverse, I had no shudder at all. Once rolling I gave it some gas. Took a little getting used to but it worked out pretty well for the time I had the car .....
 
coupe5w36 said:
I might be wrong (again!!) but I've always thought that the anti-chatter rods were only used with a torque-tube rear end.
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You are correct. Under torque, the rear end is trying to push the engine and trans forward on their mounts. The anti-chatter rods prevent this from happening.
 
!0" clutch, pressure plate, and resurfaced flywheel. I had the stock clutch in this with no shudder. The shudder occured after I put a kit in from cornhusker. I will see in the next few days if it indeed was the clutch.
 
Bassman/NZ said:
You are correct. Under torque, the rear end is trying to push the engine and trans forward on their mounts. The anti-chatter rods prevent this from happening.
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There is no way the rear end can push on the engine with a torque tube.
It pushes on the half ball which is bolted to the frame.
 
Got my truck back together and guess what? No clutch chatter!
Used an 11" Astro van clutch disc, used stock 11" pressure plate, new throwout bearing, and resurfaced flywheel. No other changes.
Truck is fun to drive again.....I'm happy!
 
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