T-stat install

dan

dan

Senior Member
I've seen the answer to this before, but a search didn't find the thread I remember. So, does it matter which direction the t-stat faces in the hose? I'm about to put my new radiator on and need to figure this out before I put the hoses back on.
 
Unfortunately, it came in a bag--which means no directions. Maybe ill post a picture and someone who has done it before and remembers can advise.
 
The wax pellet faces the head. In other words the shallowest (flatest) side faces the radiator.

I drilled two 1/8" holes in my thermostat and installed it so the holes were on top (the highest location as mounted).
 
I might also suggest securing it in the hose with a hose clamp so it doesn't get pushed up towards the radiator.
 
Save starting a new thread.

I want to install a thermostat.

Do aftermarket ones fit inside the hose only?

If so, where on west coast USA can I get one?

Could a band be soldered on to any one that I may be able to buy here that is the right diameter to locate it inside hose.

I presume it would fit down against head outlet neck?
 
Outside of getting a custom two-piece water-outlet neck that is cast to hold a regular poppet-type thermostat, the hose type is the only(?) option.

I haven't measured mine, but it sure looks like a Stant S 335-160 (small-block chevy V-8) with a stainless-steel collar welded to it, and two 1/8" bleed holes drilled in the flange for bypass.

Most modern stats I've seen have stainless bodies, so I don't know if soldering is an option.

As far as West-Coast suppliers go, there must be an A-supplier in California somewhere; if not, then there's Bert's in Colorado...

I put a 160* F hose-stat in my '28 this fall and it is great. If I were going to run the car through the whole winter, I would use a 180*.

It does not have to fit down against the outlet neck, as long as there are by-pass holes for water to circulate. I have a clamp around the hose to keep mine about 1/2-way between the outlet neck and the radiator inlet.
 
dan said:
I've seen the answer to this before, but a search didn't find the thread I remember. So, does it matter which direction the t-stat faces in the hose? I'm about to put my new radiator on and need to figure this out before I put the hoses back on.
Click to expand...
Look at the online Brattons catalog photo of thermostats and the end showing is the end pointing toward the Radiator. The Photos also shows the two drilled holes Tom mentioned. This is the type that fits inside the nose. HAPPY HOLIDAYS
 
pooch said:
Save starting a new thread.

I want to install a thermostat.

Do aftermarket ones fit inside the hose only?

If so, where on west coast USA can I get one?

Could a band be soldered on to any one that I may be able to buy here that is the right diameter to locate it inside hose.

I presume it would fit down against head outlet neck?
Click to expand...
Starting in maybe the late fifties thermostats fit into a thin recess about 3/32" deep. The recess was between the block and the casting with the upper water hose neck.
The A thermostat has a tube matching the inside of the upper radiator hose welded to the thermostat. Slide the thermostat inside the upper hose and the tube is to keep the thermostat in place. Someone mentioned putting a clamp on the thermostat to keep it from moving. Yes you could buy a thermostat and weld a tube on.
 
I use chainlink fence post pipe because it's thin walled and galvanized and cut about 2 inches and weld the thermostat to it with about 3 or 4 spots with the wirefeed.
 
Thanks for all ideas.

Are the 2 bypass holes to stop any impeller friction and maybe stopping the belt from turning when thermostat is cold?

I note that fan belt is run loose to make it easier on the fan/pump bearing.

I thought it would be best fitted down near neck, as it would sense head temperature quicker and open when needed.

I want to fit a thermostat for 2 reasons.

First is because of short runs this car is liable to do.

Second is so I can see my motometer WORK.
 
Sacramento Vintage Ford is in Calif and has the collar type Tstats. The holes are primarily an air bleed to prevent a bubble, and allow a little circulation when cold. No need to run the belt loose. It should be down near the neck as you say for early sensing, secured by a hose clamp.
 
the bypass holes are for allowing some circulation for when the stat is closed. the bypass holes are usually positioned towards the top to allow any trapped air to get through. some modern cars have air bleeds in the thermostat as they are usually mounted more horizontal then a stat in the model A hose which has more of an incline up to the radiator neck.
 
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pooch said:
Save starting a new thread.

I want to install a thermostat.

Do aftermarket ones fit inside the hose only?

If so, where on west coast USA can I get one?

Could a band be soldered on to any one that I may be able to buy here that is the right diameter to locate it inside hose.

I presume it would fit down against head outlet neck?
Click to expand...

I bought my 160* stat at a swap meet for $1. It's the common size and fits tight in the hose. It would probably be fine by itself, but to make sure it didn't turn sideways or slip up the hose, I stuck a 2" long piece of hose inside the top hose. Now the stat is pinched tight between the tight fitting inner hose and top of the outlet casting. As mentioned I drilled two 1/8" holes for some circulation so the hot water gets to the stat better.
 
I am not so sure that the stat stay in place, at least it did not for me. My car started overheating, would cool, overheat, etc cyclically after about 100 miles and I could not figure out why. Tore into the system, found the stat at the top of the hose. I theorize it overheated because the hot water in the head would not move up to the stat as fast as water in the block heated up then would open the stat as the hot water finally made it to the stat, then closed it, overheat, etc. Drilling bigger holes would have helped hot water circulation. I may do that next time it is down because I still get temp fluctuations but not bad. (Temp probe at rear of head, which will be more sensitive to the cool radiator water coming in.) I hold it in place at the outlet with a clamp but Tom's interior hose obviously works and looks original. Did not think of that. I only wonder if the smaller interior hose would be a problem on a system that was marginal to start with.
 
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Bought a 160 today.

Will use Tom's idea and jam it in.

Will future post if the motometer shows.
 
PC/SR said:
I am not so sure that the stat stay in place, at least it did not for me. My car started overheating, would cool, overheat, etc cyclically after about 100 miles and I could not figure out why. Tore into the system, found the stat at the top of the hose. I theorize it overheated because the hot water in the head would not move up to the stat as fast as water in the block heated up then would open the stat as the hot water finally made it to the stat, then closed it, overheat, etc. Drilling bigger holes would have helped hot water circulation. I may do that next time it is down because I still get temp fluctuations but not bad. (Temp probe at rear of head, which will be more sensitive to the cool radiator water coming in.) I hold it in place at the outlet with a clamp but Tom's interior hose obviously works and looks original. Did not think of that. I only wonder if the smaller interior hose would be a problem on a system that was marginal to start with.
Click to expand...

Not a problem at all.:) I'm using an original radiator, shroud, and fan. I'd loose 2 or 3 quarts of coolant every 50 mile trip I made, until I installed the thermostat. That solved the coolant loss problem, but my car was still running very hot, like about 210*. After I did the cleaning and flushing this summer, now it runs at least 20* cooler. The inner hose is no restriction, as it's larger than the thermostat opening. I first used a 4" piece of inner hose, but that made slipping the hose into place very difficult without moving the radiator forward. When I removed the thermostat during the cleaning and flushing this summer I cut the inner hose back to 2" and that works fine. Now I can easily install or remove the top hose without removing the supports rods.
 
PC/SR was correct. I just removed the top hose on Mark's 31 and found the thermostat with the skirt welded on had slipped to the top of the hose. So, it either needs a clamp over the thermostat, or I'll find a short length of hose that fits tight inside the upper radiator hose and jam it in to pinch the thermostat against the water outlet on top of the head.
 
I just did this for a friend of mine this week. We had to replace a blown head gastket (Brand New Premium Gasket) Ha!.
It was an off the shelf unit from Napa. We had to grind it down to fit the ID of the hose. I also drilled a hole at the top and the bottom. I was going to put a wire clamp over the area but my friend who is 85 and use to install these before his health mandated he quit used another piece of hose whose OD was the same as the top hose ID. He cut it to be short enough for both of the necks to fit. Holds the tstat in place. First time I had seen this method.
 
I just bought and installed a thermostat housing from Vintage. It takes a regular thermostat (Chevy, I think). It also has provisions for a guage coupling and a larger port to put in a heater inside the car. Very satisfied......
 
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