T rear end rebuilders

A

acchaplin

Senior Member
Anybody in the tri-state area that has the "know-how" and the required tools that can rebuild a T rear end?

Friend of mine just asked me last night if I knew of anybody that can rebuild a Model T rear end. I told him I'd ask on here. Thanks
 
There are multiple locations in the US that can be described as "tri-state" areas. Having a location in your ID will make that more apparent.
 
Quad states. Are there any T clubs in the area? I would bet there would be a member or two that has done that job.
 
The Model T Ford Club of America is a good start.
https://www.mtfca.com/

Restoration specialty companies advertise with the clubs but there may be someone on here that can help more than I can for your area. They're pretty simple differentials but person needs pullers, a press, and basic tools to do the job. Replacement of babbitt bearings is important for driver model T cars. The babbitt gets old and falls apart eventually.
 
Most all the parts you will need can be gotten at your favorite Model T supply house. some specialty parts might peak your interest and fortify weak parts. eg. ball bearing thrust VS babbitt, and better grease sealing. Get your thoughts together what you want to do and what needs your unit has.
 
J Franklin said:
Most all the parts you will need can be gotten at your favorite Model T supply house. some specialty parts might peak your interest and fortify weak parts. eg. ball bearing thrust VS babbitt, and better grease sealing. Get your thoughts together what you want to do and what needs your unit has.
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Thanks.

However it is not "I" that wants a T rear end rebuilt. A friend asked me if I knew of any one who can rebuild a T "hind end". I replied to him that I have absoutey no idea, and I would ask on this web site, find out, then pass that information on to him.

Requirments for contacting a "natiional club" just to get a rebuilder's name and addy near by, I have to go through the process of joining. I do not have a Model T Ford.

Any National Model T Chapters in the surrounding areas that have contact information where an "outsider" may find out such information?
 
I think any of the T clubs would be happy to steer him to a rebuilder. The parts sellers probably have a list of service providers that may be near him.
 
I rebuilt my rear end. If I recall, the only "specialty" tool I needed was a gear puller and a press (I had a bad gear on an axle) and the sleeve puller for the axle bearing sleeve. Everything else was just hand tools and following the direction in the blue book. Farmers used to repair their Ts back in the day, it's not all that complicated.
 
Will N said:
I rebuilt my rear end. If I recall, the only "specialty" tool I needed was a gear puller and a press (I had a bad gear on an axle) and the sleeve puller for the axle bearing sleeve. Everything else was just hand tools and following the direction in the blue book. Farmers used to repair their Ts back in the day, it's not all that complicated.
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Is there clearances to adjust to? I was looking over the book some and I thought I saw that there was. I could probably do the work, but I'm horrible with measuring things and using a caliper. I don't have a press, either....or a shop to tackle this in.
 
A dial indicator is needed for backlash. A dial torque wrench with a low scale can be used to check bearing preload if needed. The shimmng is likely done with gaskets as shims if it's like the model A. If it doesn't have Timken bearings then it only needs a proper thrust washer stack up. The model Ts are simpler than the model A but I've not done one yet. I have done a lot of helicopter transmissions and several Ford banjo types. I think the model T had babbitt bearings but I think they replace them with a more sturdy bearing composition.
 
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CatMan1 said:
Is there clearances to adjust to? I was looking over the book some and I thought I saw that there was. I could probably do the work, but I'm horrible with measuring things and using a caliper. I don't have a press, either....or a shop to tackle this in.
Click to expand...
The ring gear/carrier/spider gears/axles assembly is located side to side within the axle housing by flat bearings in the wide end of the axle trumpets. They were originally made of babbit material but the replacements are bronze. You can control the side to side location of the assembly by adding shims behind the bearings. The side to side location is important because it controls how the ring gear meshes with the pinion gear at the end of the drive shaft. You don't need calipers. I just used prussian blue to get a visual on how the gears meshed, and added and removed shims to get the right gear contact.
 
Doing more digging shows up more information. A lot of the you-tube videos are good what NOT to do examples but there are some that have value to them. The Model T used Hyatt roller bearings with removable sleeves. There is a tool to remove those split type sleeves for replacement. The thrust washers were babbitt and most folks recommend replacement with the phosphor bronze replacements. There are also pins that locate the thrust washer plates to keep them from turning and they wear out. Some folks drill the worn pins and tap them for 10-32 thread and use a slide hammer with a 10-32 screw to pull them out so be aware of that.

The drive shaft also has to be overhauled along with the rear axle. It has a Hyatt bearing at the bottom that likely also has a sleeve and then a bushing at the top end that was babbitt. The replacement is phosphor bronze. There is a loose ball bearing thrust washer for the pinion quill to ride on. Since the pinion is part of the drive shaft then it involves the shimming of the drive if need be to make adjustments that are likely contact pattern placement. There are shims for that. The back lash is likely adjusted with the thrust washers between the differential carrier and the axle bells. It's definitely a different critter than the later Ford banjo types. It was made to be serviced with minimal tools but it is still a pretty good challenge to get it all right.

Hyatt bearings were popular with Henry Ford and for good reason. They could take a lot of abuse and still keep on turning. If the spiral rollers are in good condition and the cage is still serviceable then they can be reused with just a replacement of the split sleeves in the housings. The modern replacements will work but I doubt that they are as good as the original bearings. There are also conversion bearings for the diff but I can't tell a person if they are better or not. There's just not enough information that I could find in a short search.
 
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