T chassis identification

LazarusLong

Senior Member
I picked up a T chassis and front axle as part of a trade,and need help identifying it so I can put it up for sale.

The chassis had a big emergency brake mounted on the outside of the left chassis rail,and that leads me to think it may be pre-20's.

It was used at one time as a platform for a mobile sawmill,so there is a notch a few inches long cut out of the top frame rail on the driver side towards the rear. I am assuming that was related to the "in and out box" for the sawmill.

Anybody know what it is and what would be a fair price for it and the front axle? The axle nas no spindles,but seems to be in good condition.
 
Two major styles of frames, the Improved Car, '26-'27 (has wider rear cross member) and the typical '17-'25 frame. Both will have a 'emergency brake lever' on the left side with a quadrant riveted to the rail.

Photo shows both, with the late frame on the left. (frames stripped of running board braces, and brake handle, cross shaft, and battery tray)

Value is all about condition, most frames aren't straight anymore, or have been cut like what you noted, that drops value. Unseen but what you describe would be scrap value, $25-$50 for a poor frame and unknown axle which may have stripped threads , cut perches, or be bent.
 

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Two major styles of frames, the Improved Car, '26-'27 (has wider rear cross member) and the typical '17-'25 frame. Both will have a 'emergency brake lever' on the left side with a quadrant riveted to the rail.

Photo shows both, with the late frame on the left. (frames stripped of running board braces, and brake handle, cross shaft, and battery tray)

Value is all about condition, most frames aren't straight anymore, or have been cut like what you noted, that drops value. Unseen but what you describe would be scrap value, $25-$50 for a poor frame and unknown axle which may have stripped threads , cut perches, or be bent.

Thanks. For 25-50 bucks it's not even worth taking photos and advertising. I hate the idea of destroying it,but I'll probably end up cutting it up and using it to build stands or something.
 
In my country the frames are worth $1,000 in good shape, $250-$500 as you described it. Might be worth something afterall. Only have to find the right customer.
 
Front axle is really good metal and worth heaps too. Threads can be repaired and bent axles can be straightened.
 
In my country the frames are worth $1,000 in good shape, $250-$500 as you described it. Might be worth something afterall. Only have to find the right customer.

Thanks. Other than the notch cut out of a top rail,it's in pretty good shape. Not bent and not pitted. The axle is straight,too.

I might pull it out someday when there is someone here to help me move it around,and take photos of it and list it to see what happens. If I could get 250 for it and the front axle I'd be happy.
 
If I could get 250 for it and the front axle I'd be happy.

All posted earlier, it's all about condition on frames. Pictures of what you have would be good to see.

Bought this '23-'25 frame at Chickasha OK for $50. Is about good condition, what counts is the front and rear cross members, are they still tight and wells shaped to hold the spring stack?, are the rivets tight? Are the spring bolt sq. location holes still true? Is the frame still in sq? (run strings to each corner and check length), are the frame rail parallel?

Then this one passes, plus the rust or pitting is minimal, so its about very good.... however missing the running board braces, they have been cut off, it would have been excellent with those still in place.

So finding a good pair of braces will cost you $50-$100 by themselves. So, got lucky, frame checks out and got a pair of almost NOS braces for $75, now have $125 in this frame, before sandblasting and painting.

Just a bare axle in very good shape can bring $50 to $100. Most are found like this one, with spindles and some linkage. Got this at Chickasha this year, $100. The axle measured true, the spring stack is usable, but wishbone was busted at the perch on both side, and king pin holes wallowed out, spring perches have to be replaced, now having that axle re-done with Stevens upper taper insert, and lower tapped insert for the king pin bolt threads.
 

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