Synthetic Oil

F

fastroadster

Senior Member
How does everyone feel about running synthetic oil in their A's. I have been running 30wt. Diesel oil but now see people are talking about running synthetics. I don't think they come in anything but 5-20 wt.? What do you guys think?
 
I’ve been using Walmart 10/30 Synthetic oil for 2 years now. I did have a lifter tap now it’s gone. I don’t know if it fixed it, but the A seams happier :D :D.
 
I use in my new A a 20W/40 synthetic oil at 1500 mls. In my 47-er Traction I drive now 10 years a 7.5W/40 synthetic at 60.000 mls. Low ash, clean piston"heads" and spark plugs.
 
I run synthetic in everything. even the lawn tractor.


price at this point is almost identical to reg oil and it lasts 3x as long.
 
Ronn, you wrote <... and it lasts 3x as long. ...>NO! You must change every oil in short intervalls to take out the dirty dust, because there is no filter!
 
I have read that when used with older engines synthetic oil can damage gaskets and seals causing the potential for leaks.

I do use synthetic in all our modern cars. Really great stuff. Enjoy.
 
Rotorwrench, I see you here in the forum as a very versatile professional good technical man. See synthetic oils only so, that they burn with much less residue. The engine and combastion chambers stays cleaner.

This is the main reason for me why I use synthetic oil.
 
WHN, this only applies to sealing material (shaft sealing ring) before the 1970s. Thereafter, material (eg. 'Viton'), which is compatible with synthetic oils, was used.
 
Synthetic oil ?

I seem to have a different opinion to other users. A buddy spoke about the positive benefits of synthetic oil in his aeroplane so I tried it in mine. The oil remained clean and after quite a number of hours I realised it wasn’t scavenging the carbon. I returned to the usual detergent oil and it got very black very quickly. I continued to change frequently until normality returned.
It is for this reason I never used it again. Has the composition changed? Or am I being obstinate? I have an open mind to logical criticism and positive suggestion.
 

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I use Mobil 1 Synthetic in my Model A's and my 39 Ford V8. I have been running 10w-30, but I want to change to 10W-40 as Ford recommended 40w in the summer. Maybe it doesn't make that much difference? FWIW, Ron Ehrenhofer, who is the technical guru for the Model A News for MARC, uses synthetic in his cars.
 
No need for Synthetic Oil in an A but if you must I'd go for Mobil 1 15w-50 which is great for both cool and hot weather and this oil has a very high ZDDP content if that also matters to you. It's sold a Walmart for about $23 a gallon I think.
 
as I said, I run synthetic in everything and it lasts 3x as long as reg motor oil. I chg my oil every 2k miles


buying it for 3.15 a qt at walmart. for the guys that say they cant afford that, well maybe they cant afford an A.


"ignore the noise around you"
 
woofa.express said:
Synthetic oil ?

I seem to have a different opinion to other users. A buddy spoke about the positive benefits of synthetic oil in his aeroplane so I tried it in mine. The oil remained clean and after quite a number of hours I realised it wasn’t scavenging the carbon. I returned to the usual detergent oil and it got very black very quickly. I continued to change frequently until normality returned.
It is for this reason I never used it again. Has the composition changed? Or am I being obstinate? I have an open mind to logical criticism and positive suggestion.
Click to expand...

There are distinct differences between air cooled aircraft engines and any other type. Most have large bores compared to automotive engines to give them the displacement that will develop horsepower in the range needed. Many are still carbureted and the rest are mechanically fuel injected. There are few with channel chrome plated cylinders now days but there may be a few still running. They run in the neighborhood of 215 degrees F and more depending on conditions. These are extremes for piston engines. It takes a strong detergent quality to scavenge the combustion bi-products that get past the rings. It also takes a minimum of SAE 50 viscosity index to do a decent job of lubricating. Mineral based ashless dispersant scavenging additive can easily be blended in and still hold the viscosity pretty well at 100 degrees C since there is a wide band of viscosity index available in mineral based lubricant stocks. Ester based synthetics are a different story. The are strictly a low viscosity lubricant that has to have viscosity building polymers blended in to give it the SAE 50 viscosity. These polymers break down quickly at high temperatures. This is why many of the synthetic aviation motor oils are semi-synthetic which is a blend of mineral and synthetic based stocks. Ashless Dispersants work better in mineral based oil than they do in synthetic so this is another reason for the mix. Aircraft that fly up in the colder atmosphere can get away with using semi-synthetics but helicopters and smaller aircraft usually stay in the lower altitude ranges. Take off for airplanes is usually full power until a cruise altitude is reached and helicopters run at high power settings anytime they are hovering or gaining altitude so they get wrung out pretty well in normal operations.

I learned a long time ago not to use synthetics in the helicopters. They would never last on the stuff. Aeroshell W100 or W100+ are the most common used. The plus has TCP as an additive for Lycoming engine cam follower well being but can not be used in engines with integral clutches or overrunning clutches since they might slip with that oil. Straight mineral is only used for break in.

Automotive engines have no real comparison to aircraft engines other than they are a reciprocating piston design.
 
Synthetic is too expensive for me! I run 20-50 Pep Bros. or NAPA. I've run 15-40 in my diesels since '82, one ran 262,00 before I sold it, another 206,000 never any trouble. I run my '13 power stroke 7500 miles between changes, as per factory recommendation. Zinc is not important in A's, wasn't when new, isn't now because of the steel, not cast iron, cam and low valve spring pressure. Detergent is important, never run without it. Additives are not needed either, another waste of money.
 
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