Synthetic oil

I really appreciate all the comments. Although it seems that it is still a well discussed issue. I have read, and still reading the links on oil science. It really is a science. Good points on all sides. A couple points also that don't make sense to me, but food for thought none the less. I think what it boils down to is what you are best comfortable with in your motor (regardless if the motor appreciates the same comfort). Bottom line is, I'm still confused.. lol.. I am not a mechanic by trade, but have built cars, and or motors and pretty good skills with that, but the science of motor oil has always eluded me really. I just always ran what I felt is best with good results so far over the years. Now with being new to the Ford flathead V8, started my inquiry all over again. My car has been running and sounding fine with next to no pressure on the gauge. However I haven't run it much since I only purchased it just before I stored it for the winter. Right or wrong, I like to see the needle actually do something. Sorry, it's just my OCD. That way, I at least know the oil pump is actually earning it's keep. This is what I have decided to do. I picked up this oil, and will add this zinc additive for additional security. We'll see how this pans out.

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I think you made a good choice. The 20/50 as posted by many over the years on this forum as improving oil pressure and working in their engines, the cleaning properties of Castrol and the zinc additive can all help the longevity of your engine. Even if zinc or other components may not be required on these loose, low compression, low valve spring pressure It can certainly help reduce friction and wear and will not show now, it may make these engines ALMOST perpetual. Go back to the 50's where engine failures in all make of cars was frequent compared to the same OLD engines now running, not to todays modern engines. As far as I see it the only difference between than and now is the oil. Attached is a picture of SOME of the sludge I removed from an original 38 engine that sat on the floor of a garage since the early 50's. I bought it several years ago, it never had the pan off and had standard bearings which didn't show much wear and not much of a ridge on the top of the cylinders. I doubt this engine had 30,000 miles on it. I compare this with my 39 engine installed 32 years and 120,000 miles ago with zero sludge and the only conclusion I come to is oil. My reason for changing to Valvoline Cummins Blue is from looking at the make up of the oil. I liked the molly and the zinc additive. It may be over kill for this engine as the Castrol has kept it like new all these years but if it helps a little over the long run that's what I want. Even if you don't have any intention of changing oil click on and read the oil article in my first post. I just thought of all oils being almost the same with a different label. There are different base oil that are used to start with and different additives in most. Like a lot have said almost any oil works in these engines but some may promote REAL LONG life which we may not be here to see the results. G.M.
 

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I have always been the king of "overkill". My phylosophy has always been, "I would rather have it and not need it, than to not have it and need it.." I also know that too much of a good thing isn't always the best medicine also, so that being said, I am not going to use an entire bottle of the zinc. The oil has a little zinc in it already, but I am going to add 1/4-1/2 bottle of the additive as just a extra lump sugar with my coffee. ;) In the next year or so you see my post whining and crying over a busted motor, well, we will all remember this post won't we? :o
 
Will do. I'm sure it will bring the pressure up which will make me happy. Time will tell if it also makes my flatty happy. ;)
 
If yout prone to changing oil regulary, why not try a straight 40 wt oil and look at the gauge like The Prof said. As long s your running in the warm weather. Now if the gauge gets up to say 40 ro 50 lbs, on the next oil change try a straight 30 wt. I have a friend with a Ardun OHV 284ci engine and it doesnt show any pressure at idle, for the past 10 years or so. It's now down with a dead cylinder and it will be nice to tear it down and check everything. It wasn't knocking just No compression in one cyl.

It's not the destination, it's the journey.
 
Will do. I'm sure it will bring the pressure up which will make me happy. Time will tell if it also makes my flatty happy. ;)

You also mentioned a valve tick. This could be a slightly sticky valve. Get a Quart of Marvel Mystery Oil and while running drizzle a little down both sides of the carb. Put the rest of the bottle in the gas tank and drive the car. In 10 miles this should clear the sticky valve or valves. Put about a pint of MMO in every tank of gas. G.M.
 
Actually, that is a good point. I have always called that stuff Marvel Miracle oil. I generally do use that in the gas of my old cars, but I have to admit, I haven't in this Ford (haven't driven it very much yet), but now that you mention it, yeah, that'll happen... ;) The "tick" to me does sound like a sticky lifter.


You also mentioned a valve tick. This could be a slightly sticky valve. Get a Quart of Marvel Mystery Oil and while running drizzle a little down both sides of the carb. Put the rest of the bottle in the gas tank and drive the car. In 10 miles this should clear the sticky valve or valves. Put about a pint of MMO in every tank of gas. G.M.
 
Why take something simple and turn it into a complication?Been running flatheads with 30HD oil for 35 years with no problems!Just change with new filter regular and move on to other things. :confused: Sorry,just my 2 cents! (Walmart Super Tech 30wt. HD,nothing fancy)

That is very true Will!This 'horse" has been beat to death over the years!Like the old saying says " You can lead a horse to water,but you can't make him drink" Sorry,my 2 cents again!
 
don,t put sync. oil in a just rebuilt eng. use a reg oil for the first 2-3 thousand miles. once eng is broken in then make your choice.
 
I don't quiet get it?Why would you want to use "part" synthetic oil.Looks like to me you either use full synthetic or stay with regular.Think about it/what is the purpose???
 
I don't quiet get it?Why would you want to use "part" synthetic oil.Looks like to me you either use full synthetic or stay with regular.Think about it/what is the purpose???

This "part synthetic" Looks like a advertising gimic to make it look like a more expensive oil and charge a little more than regular Castrol. I would call Castrol and or email them to find out just what "part" means and how much is "part". I got into this 4 or 5 years ago when they changed the SM or SJ or what ever ratings on all oils. Before that Castrol hard drive 20/50 was a diesel rated oil. They then changed the rating to a non diesel rating. I called a got some woman who wouldn't give me a straight answer. Her only comment was you have to use the new diesel oil on diesels. I emailed her 8 or 10 times and she would never answer my question "was the old oil equal to the new oil. Finally I made and sent a 10 question yes or no questioner and the results were yes the old oil is equal to or as good as the new oil. The old oil bottle had a red cap and the new cap was slightly orange/colored red. This is how I discovered the new oil. Walmarts puts all of the oil in loose quarts on the shelf. I was gathering a case of loose quarts and the last 2 bottles in the rear had the old red caps. Plus the SJ/SM ratings was changed. Pretty strange the oil that was good for diesels for 25 years and was the same oil other than the bottle was no longer good for diesels. Maybe with all the new high powered higher RPM tubo diesels the engine manufactures required different additives?? G.M.
 
While I don't claim any expertise, I can tell you what I've done for over 40 years with all my flathead motors. Especially helpful to me when I don't know the history of the engine.
#1 I never use synthetic oils, because I think they are blended for higher compression engines and would tend to leak past these low pressure flatheads (Mine are mostly 221's)
#2 The lower the compression ratio test, the heavier viscocity the oil.
#3 My basic oil is 20/50 HD unless its a brand new rebuild with high compression, then I use the S.A.E. 30. I like the 20/50 to keep the oil pressure up and leakage down.
#4 For the high milage originals I use a straigh S.A.E. 40.
#5 For the really low pressure 35 Pickup I use S.A.E. 50 Racing oil. It loves it!
I alway use HD and change it annually, not according to mileage. Even our Glidden Tours
don't exceed 3000 a years do the calendar is the best determinate.
 
A few cents here .... We have relatively cold winters in northern upstate NY, 2 hrs south Montreal CA. My flattie gets a 15 mile or so drive in the city-country about once every two weeks during the winter to keep it limbered-up, but only if the roads are bone-dry. Has about 35,000 miles on its rebuild. I use good brand of 10w-30w regular detergent with a little zinc added, change it every 3,000 m (no filter), and it stays reasonably clean. Consumes not more than half quart in 3,000 and no oil leaks. I think it has an 80 lb pump because my add-on mechanical oil gauge reads 70 lbs at idle during startup and drops to abt 20 lbs when hot (175 degrees). Year-round I use a little MM in the gas tank and that seems to have quieted the valve train.

I can tell the prior owner drove it very little. Since owning it and running it more and more, the engine has become a little quieter.

Note about zinc: Based on a large older post I read, I understand most all oils have some form of zinc in them although the company's often have their own name for it. Dan
 
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Here's the oil to use, straight out of the bottle no need to add anything. Brad Penn 10W-30 Penn Grade Racing Oil "The Green Oil".
*Weight: 10W30
* This Brad Penn oil is a partial synthetic oil
* The old Kendall Green Formula
* Provides superior lubrication for any racing engine
* Increased concentration of “zinc”(zinc dialkyldithiophosphate a.k.a. ZDDP) provides
outstanding anti-wear/anti-scuffing protection for engines employing either ‘flat tappet’ or roller cams
* BRAD PENN Grade 1 High Performance Oils have been evaluated by a number of premiere camshaft manufacturers with tremendous success


Made in the
U.S.A
 
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