Synthetic oil

Tudorp

Tudorp

Member
Anybody run Synthetic oil in their 239?

I'm thinking about changing to 20W50 Sythetic blend. Pros/cons?
 
Mine is a 53 8BA. To be honest, not sure when mine was re-built. I bought it from a guy that got it just to flip, so he didn't know much about it. I know it has had substantial work on it due to I do have a lot of reciepts from the previous owner that shows some work, but nothing that specific to total "rebuild". My motor runs great other than a slight lifter tic. But, I just want to change to 20W-50 in it, and thinking about going with a Synth blend. Think it will just help smooth things out, and might even remedy that lifter ticking.



prpmmp said:
Yes!! 1952 8BA, 5-30 Syntec(about 1000 miles on new build) http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/ Pete
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Tudorp said:
Mine is a 53 8BA. To be honest, not sure when mine was re-built. I bought it from a guy that got it just to flip, so he didn't know much about it. I know it has had substantial work on it due to I do have a lot of reciepts from the previous owner that shows some work, but nothing that specific to total "rebuild". My motor runs great other than a slight lifter tic. But, I just want to change to 20W-50 in it, and thinking about going with a Synth blend. Think it will just help smooth things out, and might even remedy that lifter ticking.
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I also use a zinc additive!! Pete
 
20/50 is the wrong move for these engines, hard on the oil pump and bearings run hotter. Ford spec. 10 winter, 30 summer for a reason. The best symthetic would be a 5/20 mix. the only thing 20/50 does in make the oil pressure gauge happy
 
What do you think about Royal Purple? 5-20 isn't too thin? especially in summer?

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I've found synthetics to work wonders on modern engines with computer controlled fuel injection but the catch 22 for me is that I'm still going to change the oil every 3000 miles max on the old carbureted engine so it's kind of an expensive lubricant to chuck away that often. There is no magic lubricity to synthetic oil other than it won't burn when a little of it passes by the rings. It just vaporizes & passes out the pipe. Unless you have a full flow oil filtration system to keep your high dollar oil cleaner, I'd consider synthetics to be a waist of money.
 
Why take something simple and turn it into a complication?Been running flatheads with 30HD oil for 35 years with no problems!Just change with new filter regular and move on to other things. :confused: Sorry,just my 2 cents! (Walmart Super Tech 30wt. HD,nothing fancy)
 
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Royal Purple guy says if you have a little leak on 30w you'll have a bigger leak on syn blend
 
Either way you go, smell your oil when you put it in. After 3000 miles drain it out and smell it again and it will smell like fuel. Raw fuel is always slipping past rings and diluting the oil. Go expensive or go cheaper, but the result is the same.

Lonnie
 
VALVOLINE VR1 10/30 has more zinc then other oils. No need to go 20/40 or 50 or to add zinc. It's on the web under VALVOLINE OIL. ITS CLASSIFIED AS RACING OIL WITH GOOD AMOUNT ON ZINC .JOHN
 
I like 20-50 oil in engines with mileage and 10-30 in tight engines. I like Valvoline Racing for break-in. Regular Valvoline after break-in. I never get enough mileage on an oil change to justify more expensive stuff.

As an aside, if you think 20-50 oil leads to wear or higher temp bearings I suggest you read the report from the S.A.E. titled THE RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN OIL VISCOSITY AND ENGINE PERFORMANCE.
 
Quaker State has an oil out called "DEFY" that they have come up with for flat tappet engines with Zinc added. Walmart for under $16.00 for a 5 qt jug. It's a synthetic blend, but I don't know the viscosity. One of our members showed it to us last week at our club meeting. Google Quaker State.
 
Not quite sure what ya mean here. Correct, but I never said anything about fuel in my oil. That's not a problem with my motor. Actually, there isn't a problem with my motor, just this will be the first oil change since I bought it, and being new to flathead v8, want to hear opinions on best oil I should use in it..

Binx said:
Either way you go, smell your oil when you put it in. After 3000 miles drain it out and smell it again and it will smell like fuel. Raw fuel is always slipping past rings and diluting the oil. Go expensive or go cheaper, but the result is the same.

Lonnie
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Quaker State Defy is 10w30. I'm not endorsing this oil, just letting everyone know its available. Just another choice.
 
Carbureted engines always have more fuel traces in the oil just due to their inefficiency. If the power valve blows out or the bowl starts to leak, (and they always eventually do) then even more fuel ends up passed the rings or valve guides. It's just the nature of the beast.

In large aircraft, they used to have a dilution system that added fuel to the oil in the pickup hopper part of the oil tank so the engine would start in cold weather. This made for some short life oil but the oil was changed every 25-hours so it was no big deal.
 
I just checked this oil out. Sounds like this is the way to go. Has Zinc already in it too so no need for an additive. I think I'm going to pick up some of the 10W-40 of this oil. Thanks for that tip.

Cecil/WV said:
Quaker State Defy is 10w30. I'm not endorsing this oil, just letting everyone know its available. Just another choice.
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I have read that synthetic oil has a greater potential for leaking past gaskets if not used originally from the date of rebuild. Stick with Castrol 20W50.
 
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