Synthetic Oil for Model A

That sounds like a good idea. I checked today and I have only put a total of 250 miles on my 28 since I bought it in 2014. It has set for various reasons. I took my carburetor to a top carburetor builder and it took him 6-8 months before I got it back. He would rather make a lot off a 4 barrel than deal with me. I just finally got it set to run real good..I am going to check my oil tomorrow. A friend is coming over and if weather permits we will take a ride.

Yikes, 250 miles in 7 years!!! I say these cars are for driving, not setting. I have done more than double that many miles in a day more than once.
Not meaning to chastise but I wonder whether you would get more out of your investment by using it.
 
Ronn: Please check your oil prices again if you are still on this Planet .


5 quarts for under 15.00???????????????

guess they have a different walmart out your way.
 
Supertech FULL synthetic for 14.63 for FIVE quarts............

granted the words triple titanium, super premium, jumbalala, quadruple gold standard

arent in the title. Me thinks walmart isnt really in the oil production business, so yes, you are getting top rate for pretty much the same as your dinosaur oil.

can lead a horse to water, but sure as heck cant make him drink. Was hoping I might save just "one" lost soul! LOL
 
Yikes, 250 miles in 7 years!!! I say these cars are for driving, not setting. I have done more than double that many miles in a day more than once.
Not meaning to chastise but I wonder whether you would get more out of your investment by using it.
When I purchased my '30 pickup about a year ago the previous owner had completed a frame-off resto in 1981, and then driven it less than 1000 miles since then. That's right, 1000 miles in close to 40 years. Needless to say, it took a bit of work to get it road-worthy. I've put close to 600 miles since I got it running, would have been a lot more except for that pesky virus keeping us all cooped up.

JayJay
 
Follow-up:
Side panel was removed - no sludge found
Found about 1/4" or so of sludge in the oil pan which was cleaned up after the baffle was removed

Ordered a new oil pump screen
 
Guys, please get out and drive your cars. This Flu virus would be tough to catch if you were driving your A at 35 -40 mph. Please don't let the Pandemic rule your life, do what you can with little or no contact. I drove my A 60 miles the other day to pick up some oil. Put on my mask when going into the NAPA store then left.
Had a great drive, I average 5000 miles a year and have had little trouble with it,
Gerry Birch Bay WA
 
Guys, please get out and drive your cars. This Flu virus would be tough to catch if you were driving your A at 35 -40 mph. Please don't let the Pandemic rule your life, do what you can with little or no contact. I drove my A 60 miles the other day to pick up some oil. Put on my mask when going into the NAPA store then left.

Flu virus??
 
Best set up for a clean non sludge Model A engine is a 160 thermostat, Mobil One 5W30 full synthetic oil and a cam cover full flow oil filter. Change every 3000 miles or every six months, combustion causes acid so the time change of the oil. Also always let it get up to the 160 degree temp to evaporate moisture, don't let it sit and idle needlessly. In my area, Virginia, that oil and filter runs about $40, pretty cheap insurance for a restored 91 year old engine, love these old engines!
 
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I would think Shell Rotella 15w40 T6 would be the way to go with a full flow oil filter for some added insurance. Change it once per year or every 2000......again cheep insurance. I also agree that we cannot stop living because of the China Virus. Be safe keep your distance and enjoy you A's.

Ron
 
Rather than flushing the engine putting a quart of kerosine, fuel oil or diesel in when it is hot and circulating it for a few minutes may result in a better clean out.
 
COVID-19. Heard of it?

COVID-19 is not considered the flu. COVID-19 is caused by a new coronavirus, SARS-CoV-2, while the flu is caused by influenza A and B viruses. The coronavirus is more contagious and spreads more quickly than the flu, causes a loss of taste or smell and symptoms generally appear two to 14 days after exposure.[/QUOTE]
 
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I was of the understanding that cold and flu viruses are also known as coronaviruses, and the current pandemic was the result of a new strain, therefore the novel (meaning "new") virus.
 
KenBolton, I have an image in my head of a motor with sludge containing years of unfiltered metal particles from normal wear processes, plus cotton fibres released from a worn cam gear and maybe gritty bits where the dipstick missed the hole on first try by a half blind pump jockey years ago when garages checked your oil. Also bits of babbit and other particulates all locked into the unfiltered goop that set and sits in valve chamber and sump.
In my image, fuel oil might unlock this detritus and diesel or kerosene certainly would. And it would pass right through the oil pump and into the gravity-fed bearings, and be deposited in the tray where the conrod scoops deliver it into the big ends.
A clean engine wouldn't suffer this ( and wouldn't need flushing anyway) but an old, dirty, unfiltered one would not like it at all.
I may be wrong here, but I am a great fan of removing sump and valve cover, cleaning everything out properly, having first blocked the mains oil tubes with pipe cleaners if really dirty in the valve chamber. And then using full synthetic oil with a good amount of zinc and phosphorous (1200 parts per million or thereabouts), added at the refinery not by the car owner, because too much ZDDP is corrosive.
I use Mobil 1 15W-50 in temperate Auckland with full flow oil and air filters.
Before anyone comments that Model A's have steel camshafts, not cast iron, with light valve spring loads, the ZDDP is in my engines to protect pistons, bores and bearings more than the cams and tappets, which we know are lightly loaded in the standard Model A engine.
As I said, just my opinion, but based on a study of tribology during university years and manufacturing industrial oils and greases for many years after I qualified.
SAJ in NZ
 
Hmmm, can't say I have had any engine "lock up" because I used a regular oil either...


true story that Ive told many times........ buddy worked at the local bus garage. the drivers were brutal and sometimes would run a hole in the oil pan,
while driving over a manhole cover. Bus's would come back in totally dry and engines still running. Buddy would install a new oil pan- fill again with synthetic and on their way they would go.
try that with reg oil and now youve just bought a new engine.
 
I would think Shell Rotella 15w40 T6 would be the way to go with a full flow oil filter for some added insurance. Change it once per year or every 2000......again cheep insurance. I also agree that we cannot stop living because of the China Virus. Be safe keep your distance and enjoy you A's.

Ron
I like the synthetic more than the Rotella which at one time was really a top notch oil but the synthetic has advanced to the point that metal to metal friction is next to nothing. Based most of my experience on old Harleys(1936-1984)which used to manufacture sludge to the point of a comedy routine. Started to use Mobil One back in the 1990s and you could not find sludge buildup at all if changed the same as the old organic oil. Nothing will overcook oil better than on old air cooled Hog.
 
I like the synthetic more than the Rotella which at one time was really a top notch oil but the synthetic has advanced to the point that metal to metal friction is next to nothing. Based most of my experience on old Harleys(1936-1984)which used to manufacture sludge to the point of a comedy routine. Started to use Mobil One back in the 1990s and you could not find sludge buildup at all if changed the same as the old organic oil. Nothing will overcook oil better than on old air cooled Hog.


FYI Shell Rotella T6 is synthetic and I use it in all my older cars and 2003 VW diesel due to the ZDDP. As for my modern cars I have used Mobil 1 for over 20 years now and it is good oil but no ZDDP.

Ron
 
Model A Ron, all of the Mobil 1oils I see listed contain both zinc and phosphorous in the form of ZDDP.
The lowest phosphorous is 650 ppm and the highest is way up at 1750. I use 15W50 which has 1200 ppm Phosphorous and 1300 zinc. The zinc numbers are about 100 ppm higher than the phosphorous numbers across the Mobil 1 range.
They also contain molybdenum-sulphur complexes that release moly disulphide (a simplification)) under boundary lubrication and also boron complexes, both of which are proprietary to Mobil and not listed.
To talk about "zinc" is a little confusing. ZDDP is zinc dialkyl dithio phospate. The phosphorous component is what forms replaceable wear protection domains when aluminium or steel surfaces experience severe pressure and heat from excess friction. They are phosphate glasses, separating the wearing surfaces and helping prevent seizure when things go awry, such as overheats, piston seizures from too little clearance, and the same for both Babbitt and silicon-aluminium bearing shells.
ZDDP is the common abbreviation for a family of similar compound nor just a single one- again each proprietary to the oil companys' oil additive suppliers like Lubrizol corporation.
In an old worn engine this protection may not be needed, but there are many cases where new engines have seized due to close tolerances, overheating, lugging, bad machining, bad piston alloys etc.
SAJ in NZ
 
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Ronn: Please check your oil prices again if you are still on this Planet .


5 quarts for under 15.00???????????????

guess they have a different walmart out your way.

Ronn,

I got two 5 quart jugs of Kirkland Synthetic Oil for $28 at Costco, so that’s less than $15 per jug not counting State taxes.

David Serrano
 
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