Sympathy pains for Old Henry

41ford1

41ford1

Well-known member
My 53 215" six decided to join Old Henry. Recently a nasty knock developed in the bottom end at the front of the engine. So it is time to dive in and see what is up. Getting this far was my Saturday project.



The head was pulled last week and taken to a machine shop. It showed receding seats and loose valve guides. Most likely the cause of intermittent skip/misfire I've been chasing for a while.

The cylinders still look good. Crosshatch pattern is still visible and almost no ridge. Tomorrow I'll get a look at the crank.
 
Chuck, sorry to hear about this latest problem with the sedan delivery. Keep us posted on what you find wrong with the lower end.
 
Ross, No hardened seats in this one. So i'm guessing the 215" run didn't.

Phil, That's why we have them. Always fun to be had Fixin' and Drivin'.
 
I took a six cyl. from a '53 Ford in the '80's and installed a head from a diesel tractor for a friend and we put it in a Ford Dexta tractor. Everything bolted right on. it ran good for about a week! Then, Phhht! Never looked to see what came apart. As far as I know, it is still sitting in a field.
 
Chuck, Perfect time to drop in a v8 of some kind. You know me aways gotta mess with them. Good luck with it, yell if you need anything, Chuck S.

PS: FLATHEADS FOR EVER!!
 
For 41ford1 - Might be apples and oranges here (Ford vs Chebbie) but back in the 80's I had a '66 Chebbie Nova w/ straight six developed a know. After spending a weekend underneath replacing all the rod bearing with no fix it turned out to be a broken tooth the timing gear causing the knocking noise.
 
Thanks for the sympathy.

I'm looking forward to seeing if you have a bearing problem like I have.

Hope you're having fun driving. :)
 
We always install hardened seats in rebuilds. Most old engines have had several regrinds of seats, leaving no room for another.
 
Tore in to it today. Plastigauged the rods and mains. Both show .002" to .0025". End play is at .008". All bearings and journal surfaces look decent. everything at the crank is at the high end of spec. I don't think any thing here is the source of the knock. Pistons are another story. They are running .010" to .022" smaller than the bores. The bores are good no scores, just what looks like normal wear. Crosshatching is still visible in the ring area. I had change the timing chain and gears in the spring of '12. They look OK. Right now I'm thinking piston slap is the source of the knock. It was the loudest when the engine was fully up to temp.











Guys, I've finally come to the conclusion that this stuff is heavy and I am no longer 16. But that aint gonna stop me!
 
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Look at the rings and see if the butt ends are front to back. Some times off location you get piston slap. Also if this is and engine that needs over size valves stems.
I had a 200 6 in a 67 falcon put just new valves and run for years.
 
Chuck,Normally piston slap quiets as the engine warms up due to the alum. Pistons expanding at a faster rate than the cast iron block.wrist pin s do the opposite. Phil
 
George/Maine said:
Look at the rings and see if the butt ends are front to back. Some times off location you get piston slap. Also if this is and engine that needs over size valves stems.
I had a 200 6 in a 67 falcon put just new valves and run for years.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reminder. There was virtually no lip at the top of the cylinders. The pistons pushed out real easily after cleaning the carbon at the top of the bores.. Cylinders 1, 3 and 6 had broken top compression rings. No. 1 cylinder was the one with .022 piston clearance.
 
Is the bore over or the piston under in No. 1 cylinder? What does the cylinder wall finish look like in No. 1? How is the fitup of rod bushings to piston pins and pins in pistons? The bearings and journals on crankshaft do look nice in your pictures.
 
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