sway bars and streight front axels ?

john mullen

Senior Member
I want to see if anyone has installed a sway bar to there 48 - 52 f1 ford truck front and rear axels I want to do it and hope to get info on what, where, who.
 
I went to there web site and looked at there sway bar sets and found none for the f1 front end with straight axels.. I need help ...
 
I want to see if anyone has installed a sway bar to there 48 - 52 f1 ford truck front and rear axels I want to do it and hope to get info on what, where, who.

On an F1 with no load, the weight bias is going to be to the front so unless you are setting up for autocross racing you probably don't need a rear bar.
The proper bar for the front is going to be trial and error even if you find an engineered kit. Any automotive engineer will tell you the bar has to be tailored to the driving style and what the vehicle is used for.
I have been through this with an F100.
Here's something to remember when fiddling with different diameter bars.
Torsional rigidity is a function of the diameter to the fourth power. This is why a very small increase in diameter makes a large increase in torsional rigidity.
You want to run as soft a bar as you can to get the roll stiffness you want.
Too stiff a bar and the front end will want to push in moderate corners.
You will find the bar also makes the truck ride harsher.​
 
John If you are trying to cure a tippy when cornering or aero bump you feel when being passed or passing, My simple suggestion is to purchase a set of stiffer operating shock absorbers. In many cases the shocks installed are junk, not correct or to soft a valving for the intended application and do not work as correctly as they should. Stiffening the shock absorber could potentially eliminate some of the sway issue you have.
 
Pete:
Thanks for that info. as it's easy to think that bigger dia. is better.
Torsional rigidity is a function of the diameter to the fourth power. This is why a very small increase in diameter makes a large increase in torsional rigidity.
 
I am using Posey front and rear spring setups and have lowered the C/G by 3.5 in. the spring setup is much softer than the OG springs and I have new quality gas shocks and radial tires. this helped a great deal but not as much as I would like therefor the sway bar idea. still looking for info...I'm sure someone has done this to the f1.
 
Just last week there was a tread on "Barn" about what people refer to as "sway bars". As I recall the question pertained to a '39 Ford...
If you have parallel front/rear springs and an I beam solid axle, you most likely do not need a "sway bar", you need a "roll stablizer bar" to control body roll in lieu of misalignment of the body in relationship to the chassis..
A sway bar is generally connected to the chassis/frame and suspension via a solid connection.. This type of a bar is also called a track bar and/or panhard, it keeps everything in alignment.. Generally speaking parallel springs do the same thing.
A roll bar is a form of torsion bar, that generally is attached to the frame and suspension via movable links.. The purpose of the bar is to limit body roll..
Ford started to use the body roll bar on the Deluxe '40 Ford, started using both the body roll bar and sway bars in about '42, maybe '46..
Vehicles equipped with coil springs require the use of both bars due to the nature of coil springs.
When talking to parts men you have to be careful with your choice of words, if the person taking the call really understands cars, he should ask just what you are trying to control. Unfortunately most people don't really understand the problem..
Body roll was a big problem on the pre 1950 cars, not so much if you just putted down the road, it became a big problem at speed on curves, especially on an old Ford with worm out shocks..
My first three cars were Chevy's, '40, 41 and then a '38 with independent front suspension.. My first Ford was the '36 I have, I came very close to rolling it the first time I got in a race with it, the suspension left much to be desired compared to the GM cars..
I solved the problem very quickly on my '36 with better shocks, rear sway bar, front stablizer bar, and a 2" dropped axle.. The car would then stay nearly flat on turns, etc..
 
Ahgggaaa now there is a new set of springs involved, gas shock package and radial tires, what happened to this info on the original post? All of these should have reduced the roll considerably, what type of feel do you want, that Euro ride with no roll?
 
...If you have parallel front/rear springs and an I beam solid axle, you most likely do not need a "sway bar", you need a "roll stablizer bar" to control body roll in lieu of misalignment of the body in relationship to the chassis..
A sway bar is generally connected to the chassis/frame and suspension via a solid connection.. This type of a bar is also called a track bar and/or panhard, it keeps everything in alignment.. Generally speaking parallel springs do the same thing.
A roll bar is a form of torsion bar, that generally is attached to the frame and suspension via movable links.. The purpose of the bar is to limit body roll..

You again have your terminology mixed up (as also noted by Dick on the "1939 Ford Sway Bar" thread).

Sway bar = Anti-Roll bar = "Roll Stabilizer" bar:
Helps to control chassis/body roll around the longitudinal axis of the vehicle.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sway_bar


Panhard bar = Track bar:
Controls the lateral position of the axle (side-to-side) relative to the chassis/body throughout the suspension travel.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Track_bar
 
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well whatever , I see I'm not going to get the info I want hear. I don't want opinions just someone who has done this to there f1 ford that's all
 
Ahgggaaa now there is a new set of springs involved, gas shock package and radial tires, what happened to this info on the original post? All of these should have reduced the roll considerably, what type of feel do you want, that Euro ride with no roll?

He wants the truck to corner like an Formula 1 car, ride like an LTD Ford and someone to come do the job for free.
 
this is my truck .I built it top to bottom, paint, engine, driveline, interior ect and don't need anybody to do a dam thing for free. some of you guys sound like you have nothing better to do ;)
 

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John, quite a few of us here do have a lot of time on our hands ;)

I like your truck, congratulations on a job well done.
 
this is my truck .I built it top to bottom, paint, engine, driveline, interior ect and don't need anybody to do a dam thing for free. some of you guys sound like you have nothing better to do ;)

That was meant as humor.
All of the info you requested is in the previous posts. Go back and read slowly.
PLEASE.
 
Pete, I'll take it as humor. we all need a little giggle every now and then. I'm just looking for someone who has done this in the real world and what where and how they did it. Thanks for the info you have given me and I will think about that info along with others as well ..Thanks everyone ....
 
John, your parallel spring set up is like a sway bar. You need to explain why you think you need a sway bar. I'm assuming you still have a little roll cornering at high speed and you want to cut that down a little. Your roll is created by the soft spring to obtain a some what pleasurable ride. I dont think that anyone makes a kit special for F-1's. Chassis Engineering has a number of kits that can be adapted based upon measurement of frame width and easily modified linkages tied into the axle at the U bolt plates. I dont think the work is to difficult and parts easy to modify or fabricate.
I still think that your shock package is too soft. Gas shock term really only means that the shock fluid is under gas pressure to prevent the liquid from aerating during operation and loose efficiency. Stiffen the shocks and you will see that you loose some of the unwanted roll.
 
Dick, Thanks for your for your response. I do want a little less role as I drive this truck on some roads with sharp curves and it has more roll than I want. I thought that a roll bar/sway bar along with the gas shocks and radial tires would give the best all around ride. going straight down the interstate the truck has a great ride with the shock / spring / tire package that I have. I think that this would be what I need to finish off my truck. I hope someone who has done this to there f1 will chime in as I would also like to hear what they think of what this did to the ride / roll of there truck .Thanks again for your input
 
John, I can understand you wanting your truck to be the best it can be. You have put a lot of work and money in it to get it this far and maybe your are just inches away from "perfection". It sounds like few, if any, have modified the original suspension to the extent you are asking about. It gets to the point where the suspension isn't as Henry designed it anymore and maybe a modern suspension transplant is how most achieve the characteristics you are looking for. I don't know if you have asked this question on the several Ford truck forums, there should be more experience there.

I've rambled with my thoughts, but just want to say I think I understand your position. Keep searching for the answer, jump in and build your own, or clip it with one of the many options out there. When you figure it out, please come back to this thread and tell us what you did. Best of luck to you.
 
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