Sudden Lock Up

Yeah Phil and Keith you're probably right...Why make a bad situation worse? I did put it back together and moved it around without incident. I can't trust it so I'll just have to wait until such time I can repair it myself or send it to the "hospital". At least I can run it up and down the driveway to keep the engine in good shape.
I guess I was just venting yesterday about running it until it blows up. Kinda pissed off that I change everything on schedule keep it dry, clean and babied. Of course this ain't TV, but how funny so many shows just find an old A, prime it and off they go....I pamper the old girl and she craps on me!
 
Everybody's situation is different and you have to do what works best for YOU at the time. One day with my race car (turbocharged VWBug) we cracked the trans case at the track. Knew that I should not make any more passes but it was running too good. So we hung a cookie sheet-type pan under the transaxle to keep the gear oil off the track and hoped for the best. Next pass 9.83 at 143 mph :D pass after that cost the whole gear box :rolleyes:
 
The thought came to my mind that there may be some question about the lubrication you used. Since both the rear end and transmission have developed problems, and since you most likely used the same oil in both, then perhaps it was caused by the oil.

Mitchell, who make the overdrive and the sychro transmission recommend 85W-140 modern transmission oil in their products. The "600 weight" oil that you can buy from the dealers can be anything since it does not come with any specification or rating. Besides that, the modern transmission oils have additives to extend the life of the gears and bearings. The transmission oils that were used 90 years ago are not as good as what is available today and the 600 weight oils that are available today may not be any better or even worse.

I would be interested in learning what transmission oils you used.

In my youth, I ruined a gearbox on an old motorcycle by using the wrong oil in it. It was completely trashed in about 10 minutes of hard use. I rode it just as hard and had no problems with the gearbox when it had the right oil in it.
 
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jg61hawk said:
So here's the update. I drained the trans too...actually big stuff showed up in the cup part of the drain plug. I figure this car is in my possession for 9 years and we drove from NJ to Gettysburg and Morgantown National Meets. In 9 years I put 5,000 miles on it. Engine is perfect.
I removed the rear hubs, no brake issues that I saw. I put new keys in the axles, and torqued to 125. I bought magnetic differential drain and fill plugs. I'm going to refill all fluids and drive it locally (like I have generally always done). NO MORE long hauls until I get it professionally repaired. In NJ there are no "local" places, but Schwalms is about 200 miles away and I can handle that. They have a waiting list...but I'll see what happens. Generally if I take the car to a local diner or small car show it's done for about a month.
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Your plan sounds reasonable to me, drive it close to home and enjoy it until you can have the rear end repaired, you can't do that much damage, worst care you could crack the banjo, easily replaced. As long as you have a means. to get it back home.

I am not aware of Schwalmes. I suspect it is going to cost you $2,000 or more. I have been doing differential overhauls here in southern California for the past 35 years. I have done hundreds of them. I charge a flat labor fee or $600 and the cost of the new bearings, races, seal and gaskets is $400. A new ring and pinion gear when needed is $500. However, I stock serviceable originals for much less. Banjos, ring gear carriers, and Axles I have in stock at a reasonable fee if needed. Spyder gears I don't charge for. I usually turn the job around in about a week.

Good luck with your project,
Tom Endy
 
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