Sub Rails

C

CJH

Member
Hello All,

I am hoping to get some feedback on the accuracy of the reproduction sub rails available for a 1930 coupe. How well do they work with the original front sub rail connectors?

Thanks for your time,
Chris
 
I've seen that the half rails do not match the profile of the originals exactly. Are the full length sub-rails the same way? Does it matter as much when using a full length rail?

Chris
 
I'm certain that trying to mate the differing profile of the repro sub rail to the original would be problematic at best, and may even lead to body alignment issues.

It seems to me that using a matched pair of the repros might be a better idea - if they aren't too different from the original. Do you have the chance to compare them side by side to see if the general shape and some of the key points on the rails will match up?

I've seen photos posted here on the Barn from guys that have built their coupe bodies from the sub rails on up. I don't recall if they were using originals or repros, but maybe they will add further comment.

Good luck, let us know what you find out.
 
My front sub rails are original, and rear are repo's. I found if I cut
them as a finger type joint I could make them match up. This helped
eliminate the non conforming parts, and made for a stronger joint
I believe.

Rich
 

Attachments

  • a20.jpg
    a20.jpg
    51.3 KB · Views: 131
  • a21.jpg
    a21.jpg
    50.3 KB · Views: 122
  • a22.jpg
    a22.jpg
    76.9 KB · Views: 125
Rich B. said:
My front sub rails are original, and rear are repo's. I found if I cut
them as a finger type joint I could make them match up. This helped
eliminate the non conforming parts, and made for a stronger joint
I believe.

Rich
Click to expand...

Rich, that is a very smart way of splicing them together. Kudos to you in your craftsmanship!!
.
 
Thanks Rich B. for the suggestion. I'll have to see if I can make that work. i agree that it would be a much stronger connection.

Thanks again,

Chris
 
When I restored my 30 coupe,someone back in the 50,s had scabbed pieces of model "T" frame over the rusted out rear rear section of the subframe.I cut off the rear 2 feet of subframe,removed the "T" stuff & rebuilt what was left & welded it back together & it worked out fine.
 
I've only been into the "A' world for about ten years,but have found that no matter what you pay or who makes it (even original Henry stuff) it all has to be "massaged' into place.Good idea on the overlapping cuts.I do that with patch panels sometimes(leave fingers on for alignment then grind off later.Good Luck!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top