Stuck Wheel Came Loose!!

Mike Peters

Well-known member
Just a follow up on Stuck Wheel. Kohnke Rebabbiting gets the prize on this one. I explained it on the last post in Stuck Wheel. Thanks ever so much!!
mike
 
Two photos after wheel came loose. The taper on the wheel hub unfortunaltely would make it impossible to use any type of puller because it tapers down outward. Many thanks to Bill for his drawing of a wheel puller. I appreciated his efforts and concern from everyone when I got in a jam.
mike
 

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No problem Mike! I didnt realize the sharper angle on the spokes that would make getting the puller down into the "neck" area almost impossible. Im still a little confused tho... shouldnt the wheel have been able to come off the hub without having to remove the hub with the wheel? Now that its off can you post a pic of the hub? ws
 
OK. Here's the problem with these wheels. First photo: The back wheels are bolted to the brake drum with cap bolts from the inside of the drum. When the wheel is on the axle, these bolts are inaccessible. The cap bolts are under the backing plate. Second and third photos: Front wheels. The fronts are bolted to the hub from behind, and ARE accessible when the wheel is on the axle. In fact, this is the easiest way to get the front wheels off the car. I leave the hub right on and remove it separately with the front wheel bearings, etc. I bought these wheels a few years ago for my speedster, but ended up not liking the speedster, so I'm putting a touring body on the speedster chassis. I discovered that I like the creature comforts like doors and a windshield. The wheels will look good on the touring as well. It's just that the back wheels are hard to get off if they get stuck . I'm gonna be sure the axle key does not get pushed ahead when I install the rear wheels. The axle key groove is pretty worn. Cap bolts on the rear. (left photo) Studs on the front.(right photo). Sorry if the explanation is clear as mud, but you'll get the idea from the photos. Bill: Still got snow on the ground in Trivers?
mike
 

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Hey Mike... after the big melt last week with 2 days of rain, we're down to about 2 feet in front of the house and still 4 feet at the street.

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BETTER DAYS AHEAD !!

Back to your wheels... Im still a little confused.

Those are wood wheel hubs on the front, and Im guessing the rears too. The pics posted dont show any visible fasteners on the outside face. Was there a machined ring with studs welded to the inside? Considering welding technology back in the day, that wouldve been no small undertaking! Not to keep bugging you, but I have an enquiring mind, and its REALLY nice to see someone thats been able to figure out how to post pics. Ever been to the MTFCA? The O.S. over there was probably a MAC 1.1 and they gotta wake the dinosaur up, feed it, then get him on the treadmill to generate enough juice to warm up the tubes on the Marconi set... what a freaking joke. Of course most of the guys over there havent bought a TV set yet because they arent "perfected".
Ive got two more weeks on the speedster, then I hafta start on the REAL paint job. Thatll last a month!! ws

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At least the boats only 6 blocks from home. The speedster looks good parked in front of it at the marina too!!
 
I think you have a set of Budd wheels, possibly built for an Overland, now adapted to fit the T hubs. You would be wise to check all of the welds & study the engineering for your safety.

The wheel originally was located & was driven by the frilly outer rim of the hub, The outer end was supported & held tight by the screw on hub cap.

A local fellow has a nice 1911 touring that had a similar wheel set up. A wheel adaptor came apart & the car rolled over as a result. Luckily he recovered & the car has been restored -- again & works well with Ford wheels in place.
 

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I think Jack Innes is correct. My wheels have been repurposed with an adapter plate welded in with studs to fit Model T. Budd wheels originally used on Overland? OK. My wheels look exactly like the photo Jack posted, except mine have a plate welded in the center hub. The left photo is a wood rear wheel with brake drum. The second photo is the rear wheel with brake drum and hub unbolted. The third photo is a front wheel, which is the same as the rear except the studs are not as long on the rear because clearance is needed for the rear brakes. Thanks to Jack for the warning about welds. The only thing between me and a roll over are those welds between the adapter plates and hub.
So Bill still has lots of snow in Triver? Wow! We still have some, but nothing like what Bill has. But it's mid March, so he will have that big boat in the water before he knows it. Got room on that boat for your speedster? You could take your T across the lake to Michigan and go touring! cheers...mike
 

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