Stuck valve 59 A-B

1OldCollector

1OldCollector

Junior Member
I just traded for a ‘47 Super Deluxe. 59 A-B engine. Older restoration, but in pretty decent condition. Sat for four years. Owner had put diesel in the cylinders prior to turning it over. It started up okay but was rough and pretty gutless. I did typical maintenance cleaning and changed the oil. Compression is good on all cylinders except number seven. I am aware of the usual initial methods for unsticking valves, just wondering if there is anything specific to #7.
 
There is nothing peculiar to any particular cylinder. Put some MMO in the gas and try drizzling MMO into the carb while you jazz the throttle to keep it running with the oil ingestion. Worked for me on a new build that was a little tight. When I was a broke teenager, I did the same thing but with kerosene. That also worked to free up valves on an engine that has sat for a while.
 
Being an inside cylinder (2+3 & 6+7), it is slightly more vulnerable to being burnt by exhaust crossover should there be a blockage in the exhaust system. These are also the cylinders in which block cracks are common between cylinders and valves. These are considerably more serious than merely a stuck valve, and I do hope you get lucky, but you did ask!
 
Thanks for the tips. Hopefully I’ll get lucky on this one. It’s a pretty nice ride. I posted some pix in the albums.
 
Welcome to the 'barn. That's a nice looking car you have, and some great East of the mountains background in the pictures. I am also a big fan of the MMO drizzle, but I have used a lot of different aerosol products with success as well. Engine at idle, spray heavily down the intake. PB Blaster and WD40 have both unstuck valves for me. Once it's free, add MMO to your gas and oil as described in the directions.
 
Yep, follow G B's advise, as spraying PB Blaster down
the carb has worked for me a number of times, too. ;)





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I have an 8BA in a '32 roadster that was my dad's. It did run fine until he parked it 15 years ago and then he got covid and died. Now it's got a stuck valve from sitting. I've lubed that cylinder with everything I can think of, and it's still got a stuck valve. It runs but not very good with an intake valve open. I'm going to change the cam to a hotter cam anyway, so I'll unstick the valve when I put the full race cam in it.
 
Also, when you put a new cam in it, consider redoing the valves with some high-quality SBC 1.6" Pro-Flow type valves. They won't rust and/or stick in the guides like the original intakes sometimes do.
 
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