Stuck starter field coil screws
- Thread starter Shoat
- Start date
Joe K
Well-known member
They are ALL stuck. Maybe even peined in place to prevent unstucking.
One of the Les Andrews books shows in pix how to remove the screws.
First, you need a cradle to hold the starter from rolling around. Make this out of 2x4s or something stout.
Second, you need a "drag link socket" or similar from one of the tool manufacturers. Sears Craftsman has them in small and large. I think you want small.
Third, you need an extension and t wrench the drag link socket can attach to.
Fourth you need a drill press large enough/strong enough to PUSH on that drag link socket while you turn it. And chuck up the cut off end of a LARGE nail in the drill chuck. This for the hole in the backside of the t wrench to engage/align with.
I think you may get the picture. The use of the drill press absolutely prevents the drag link socket from "camming" out of the slot on the field screws. You want the wife or a come-along strap to "HOLD" that drill press down and pushing on the screw while you turn.
There are likely other ways to do this. Use of an arbor press might be tried. Still, it's hard to keep everything aligned while turning. And one slip will likely cause the slot to round over and prevent the next successful attempt from working.
I would guess that 75 to 100 ft-lbs of force is required to break the screw loose. But more important is making sure ABSOLUTELY that the screwdriver/drag link socket can't back off from the screw.
Hope this helps. Its SOOO easy given the right or adequate tools.
Joe K
One of the Les Andrews books shows in pix how to remove the screws.
First, you need a cradle to hold the starter from rolling around. Make this out of 2x4s or something stout.
Second, you need a "drag link socket" or similar from one of the tool manufacturers. Sears Craftsman has them in small and large. I think you want small.
Third, you need an extension and t wrench the drag link socket can attach to.
Fourth you need a drill press large enough/strong enough to PUSH on that drag link socket while you turn it. And chuck up the cut off end of a LARGE nail in the drill chuck. This for the hole in the backside of the t wrench to engage/align with.
I think you may get the picture. The use of the drill press absolutely prevents the drag link socket from "camming" out of the slot on the field screws. You want the wife or a come-along strap to "HOLD" that drill press down and pushing on the screw while you turn.
There are likely other ways to do this. Use of an arbor press might be tried. Still, it's hard to keep everything aligned while turning. And one slip will likely cause the slot to round over and prevent the next successful attempt from working.
I would guess that 75 to 100 ft-lbs of force is required to break the screw loose. But more important is making sure ABSOLUTELY that the screwdriver/drag link socket can't back off from the screw.
Hope this helps. Its SOOO easy given the right or adequate tools.
Joe K
Rainmaker Ron
Senior Member
Re: Rainmaker Remedy starter yoke screws
Grind one of your air chisels to fit exactly in one of the unmolested pole shoe screws. Put a few drops of your favorite penatrant on each screw. Use your air hammer to "rattle" each screw. This action will "straighten" the usually deformed screw slots and loosen the screws that can now be removed with your big screwdriver. Works for me!
Rainmaker Ron
Grind one of your air chisels to fit exactly in one of the unmolested pole shoe screws. Put a few drops of your favorite penatrant on each screw. Use your air hammer to "rattle" each screw. This action will "straighten" the usually deformed screw slots and loosen the screws that can now be removed with your big screwdriver. Works for me!
Rainmaker Ron
tbirdtbird
BANNED
search this site; this question has been addressed. there is an easy method with a drag link socket, a breaker bar, and a vise; no drill press needed with this method
Jazzjr
Senior Member
I have never had a Problem getting them out, by using a Hand Held Impact Screwdriver. Just saturate the screws with Penetrating Oil, let set a few minutes, and hit the Driver with a good size ball peen hammer. Sometimes you nay have to use the driver in both directions to loosen the Screws to remove them.
Attachments
Last edited:
Tom Wesenberg
Well-known member
I've tried that and never had luck with it, and my tool is a quality one by Lisle. It has managed to break some bits though. I need to hit the Snap On truck for some good bits.
Kurt in NJ
Well-known member
I used to use the "motorcycle screwdriver" to remove the screws, the Snap On one is best, but it was a Apex bit that fit best of the ones I had, the trick is to start hammering in the center "neutral" area then gradually start turning in the direction you want to move the screw---and to have something to expand the pole pieces tight as the screw is tightened--my first crude expander was made out of a large bolt and nut with the top of the bolt ground into a dome---then I found a muffler expander that fit well.
Most likely the bit will have to be ground to fit the screw properly
Most likely the bit will have to be ground to fit the screw properly
BILL WILLIAMSON
Well-known member
I HAVEN'T tried this, what about tig welding a small nut to the screw head (weld inside the nut hole)????? The heat may help break it loose?? Bill W. Buster T's
shakin' his head NO!!!
shakin' his head NO!!!Herb Concord Ca
Well-known member
To remove the field coil screws try, drilling them, all you have to do is to drill deep enought to get the counter sunk head seperated from the threaded part.
I've done 3 starters like this.
I've done 3 starters like this.
H. L. Chauvin
Well-known member
One of the most important things in removing "stubborn" screws, (especially decorative engraved screw heads on expensive guns), is taught in gunsmith school, whereby it is required to have a large selection of special custom made "gunsmith" screw drivers; or, milling & providing a custom exact fit for the head of the screw driver into the "stubborn" screw slot.
1. Screw Driver Thickness:
A. When a screw slot is wider than the screw driver head thickness, all of the pressure is placed on the two (2) ends of the screw slot; hence, the ends of the screw slot receiving all of the force get deformed, (buggered up), such that the sides of the screw slot are no longer parallel.
B. When a screw slot is the same width as the screw driver head thickness, all of the pressure is placed uniformly along the screw slot; hence, the ends of the screw slot do not become deformed and the sides of the screw slot remain parallel.
2. Screw Driver Taper:
A. Most new screw driver heads are "screw-up" by having a tapered head; hence, the "tops" of the screw slots receive all of the pressure, get deformed, & again, the sides of the screw slots are no longer parallel in the vertical direction. Also because of this tapered wedge effect, the screw driver head moves upwards when pressure is applied & slips out of the screw slot.
B. If one has a custom manufactured screw driver, or if one mills & removes the taper from the screw driver head to where the screw driver head has no taper, & the screw driver head fits tightly in the slot, when pressure is applied, the pressure on the sides of the screw is uniform; hence, the tops "and" ends of the screw slot are not deformed.
3. Screw Driver Alignment: The use of a drill press greatly helps to maintain correct contact between the screw driver head & "all" of the screw slot, & prevents the screw driver head from slipping upwards out of the screw slot.
Hope this helps someone in removing future "stubborn" screws.
1. Screw Driver Thickness:
A. When a screw slot is wider than the screw driver head thickness, all of the pressure is placed on the two (2) ends of the screw slot; hence, the ends of the screw slot receiving all of the force get deformed, (buggered up), such that the sides of the screw slot are no longer parallel.
B. When a screw slot is the same width as the screw driver head thickness, all of the pressure is placed uniformly along the screw slot; hence, the ends of the screw slot do not become deformed and the sides of the screw slot remain parallel.
2. Screw Driver Taper:
A. Most new screw driver heads are "screw-up" by having a tapered head; hence, the "tops" of the screw slots receive all of the pressure, get deformed, & again, the sides of the screw slots are no longer parallel in the vertical direction. Also because of this tapered wedge effect, the screw driver head moves upwards when pressure is applied & slips out of the screw slot.
B. If one has a custom manufactured screw driver, or if one mills & removes the taper from the screw driver head to where the screw driver head has no taper, & the screw driver head fits tightly in the slot, when pressure is applied, the pressure on the sides of the screw is uniform; hence, the tops "and" ends of the screw slot are not deformed.
3. Screw Driver Alignment: The use of a drill press greatly helps to maintain correct contact between the screw driver head & "all" of the screw slot, & prevents the screw driver head from slipping upwards out of the screw slot.
Hope this helps someone in removing future "stubborn" screws.
Last edited: