Stuck Oil Pump in a 50 Engine

30aadoodlebug

30aadoodlebug

Senior Member
So awhile ago I posted about the 1950 Country Squire my uncle gave me, and how I was removing the hot-rod components and bringing it back to stock. I have a great 50 engine Im putting in the car, and everything has checked out well with the block thus far. Im in the final stages of the tear down process and the damn oil pump wont let go. the retaining screw is out, and it wont budge. The engine is frozen BTW, so Im guessing this has something to do with it.

Thanks in advance,

Jon
 
A fairly common problem. Sometimes they just don't want to come off.
 
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I use a good penetrant and turn the pump body with a pipe wrench, once it starts to move I use more penetrant and turn some more till it decides to give up. the oil pump housing can break if too much force is used, I had one do that so I wound up removing the pin in the drive gear of the pump shaft then removing the shaft and threading the shaft bore , I made a make sift puller from a washer and a short length of pipe, screwed the puller rod into the pump body and started to remove the broken pump housing, all the time spraying and tapping on the body. Otherwise I was going to try and plasma cut the broken pump body out. Good luck!
 
How about a little heat on the block? (or,,, a lot) I can't tell you I've been there but, that is the life of the engine. Good Luck

Look for a pair of those long jawed locking pliers that are used for welding.
 
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If I was going to use the block ,I wouldnt be putting any heat on it. I have removed a few rust stick pumps ,use a pipe wrench to try and turn the pump,it it snaps off cut the shaft and weld a puller on to that and pull it out.
Lawrie
 
All great pieces of advice! I will give it a shot tonight when I get home from work. Thanks for all the input, and I'll let you know how I make out either way.

Jon
 
I agree that applying heat to a block can be tricky unless you really understand what your doing.
 
JSeery said:
I agree that applying heat to a block can be tricky unless you really understand what your doing.
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Lawrie said:
If I was going to use the block ,I wouldnt be putting any heat on it. I have removed a few rust stick pumps ,use a pipe wrench to try and turn the pump,it it snaps off cut the shaft and weld a puller on to that and pull it out.
Lawrie
Click to expand...

Copy that. I wasn't thinking there would be harm if one took care. You gentlemen, however, know the way. I'll retain this knowledge 'til its my turn to do one. Thank you.
 
Cast iron can be tricky if it is not heated evenly. Concentrated heat in one area expands the metal at a different rate than the surrounding area and can lead to cracks.
 
Never tried it myself but I think someone mentioned attaching a slide hammer to the pump body using the four 1/4" screws that hold the end plate on. I think this is if you want to reuse the pump and not damage it. I also heard and have followed the advice to use a good used pump rather than a new one.

Choices, choices...

Mart.
 
If you can get it to turn at all, keep dousing it with fluid (a 50/50 mix of acetone and transmission fluid) and just work it back and forth gently a little bit at a time. I got impatient and eventually mine came out in pieces. Ended up prying it with a tire tool from the inside after I removed the idler gear. I like the slide hammer idea that Mart mentioned should I ever do another one.
 
I have used rubbing alcohol to get stuck distributors moving enough to get out. You need something thin to get the process started.
 
Just removed a stuck oil pump a few weeks ago. I started with a a very large pair of channel lock pliers (16" handles) and worked the pump back and forth until it started to move. When it started to move, I put more pressure on it and moved it as far as surrounding pieces would permit and then started to pull it up as I moved it back and forth. Pump has now been cleaned and is back in the rebuilt engine.
 
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