Stuck Motor

theutel

theutel

New member
I recently purchased a 1914 Touring which was stored (incorrectly) in a storage facility and forgotten about, car is in great shape but the motor is stuck. I've heard pouring a mixture of Kerosene and transmission fluid into the combustion chamber could over time release the motor. Any thoughts or suggestions? Thanks!
 
I have had luck with automatic transmission fluid & acetone mixed 50/50. Soak as long as you can with the head set on to keep the acetone from evaporating. Heating and cooling alternately over several days helps work the mixture in as well. The longer it soaks, the lesser the chance of breaking something. Haste is not your friend in freeing an engine.
 
Check too that the clutch discs aren't stuck. That can happen when the T is stored a long while with the clutch/rear brake lever pulled back. Separation of the discs will occur when in free neutral, (the T does not have a real neutral like other cars), and old oil will congeal over time and cause the transmission to be 'stuck' which will seem like the motor is stuck.
 
Tmodelman brings up a good point. Sometimes simple things can appear as a major problem. A jammed Bendix drive can give the impression that the engine is stuck.
 
In this case, 1914, it's unlikely there's a Bendix to get stuck. I haven't had a stuck engine to try this, but a method I've read about is to jack up the front, engage the hand crank so it's horizontal, and let the car down with the crank resting on a solid object like a saw horse or jack stand so the crank is holding up the car. With 50/50 in the cylinders and the weight of the car trying to turn the crank, eventually it will move. Sounds like it should work.
 
What's everyone's experience been with an engine that was badly stuck after you've gotten it unstuck? Do they generally require rebuilding anyhow because of the damage of running the rings and pistons agains rusted cylinder walls, and spinning rusted cranks in the bearings?
 
Its a crap shoot sometimes they free up and everything is good especially if it has
cast iron pistons, If aluminum pistons sometimes the rings seize up in the pistons and
they won't re-seal. Also always check the valves on a stuck motor make sure they are
moving with a screwdriver or something before you start forcing the motor to turn.
I have seen lifter bosses pushed out of the block from a stuck lifter or valve.
There is a lot of mechanical advantage with the cam lobe against the lifter.
Just don't try to tow the car to unstick anything as there are lots of whimpy parts in
a Model T that won't hold up to that kind of abuse. For the rust left in the cylinder bore
you can try a ball hone to put a mild cross hatch in it. A Model T will run pretty decent
almost worn out its amazing. But you probably will have to rebuild it to some degree.
 
Well first off were the plugs still in place? Possible moisture enterance holes if their out. One thing to consider is that it was stored because of some engine problem to begin with. It's for you to determine what the cause of it's being stuck really is. If the plugs are in place first off keep it simple: You could have (as mentioned) stuck clutches. In other words it's locked in gear. Get one rear wheel off the ground and see if she'll turn. Might be easier to try to turn the elevated wheel. Make sure the left pedal moves up & down with the hand brake lever and moves to the half way down position as you pull it rearward. Possible broken linkage if it doesn't. Leave it in the vertical or straight up position. That's neutral with the rear emergency brakes off. It won't be in neutral if the clutches are stuck but if that's the problem the engine will turn with the wheel. Let us know what you find.

Will N: all depends on conditions. It really doesn't take much in the rust department to cause an engine to get stuck. Leverage, especially hand cranking isn't all that great and a very few spots of rust will give you the fits. Bearings don't usually crud up unless the water gets quite deep in side. Free it up, fresh oil, and run it with your fingers crossed before going for the big bucks. You might be surprised.
 
I just unstuck two motors I got in a such a deal truck load. I soaked the cylinders with PB Blaster and every time I walked by I'd give them a whack with a dead blow hammer. After four days they both moved. I think they would run but the stuck cylinders had pitting. You'll be lucky if yours aren't pitted. I also soaked the the lifters real good as well. PK
 
I am in the same predicament, I have a rebuilt engine of several years ago. It was never put in a car and the owner was good about turning the engine every now and then. But he forgot about it for a while and the mice got into it. The water jacket is filled with nesting, the intake and exhaust manifold show some signs of traffic and the cylinder walls are showing a little surface rust.

I now have the motor on an engine stand and will invert the motor and try to wash out the cylinder walls with brake clean. The former owner was good about putting oil in the cylinders so I hope the damage is not too bad.
What grade sandpaper would I use to polish up the cylinder walls? Thanks
 
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