Stuck intake manifold

Z

Zeke5180

Member
I cannot get my intake manifold to release. I've heated it up, beat it with a dead blow hammer and ran a 2 x 4 across the front fenders attaching a rachet strap to the generator bolt for additional pressure but it still stuck. yes, all the bolts are out. Any suggestions?

As always, thank you.

Zeke
 
must be glued on with silly rubber or something. maybe try using a bar down one of the inlet ports [under where the carb bolts] and rocking side to side to try to break the seal....
 
Some people are going to hate this...
Leave your ratchet strap in place.
Use a wide wood chisel, front of the manifold.
Angle of the chisel to offer the most contact along the front edge of the manifold,
flat on the block.
Judicious use of hammer on end of chisel,
Hope your manifold is cast iron.

Karl
 
Karl Wolf said:
Some people are going to hate this...
Leave your ratchet strap in place.
Use a wide wood chisel, front of the manifold.
Angle of the chisel to offer the most contact along the front edge of the manifold,
flat on the block.
Judicious use of hammer on end of chisel,
Hope your manifold is cast iron.

Karl
Click to expand...

Karl, I'm not a hater :) I have used this method when necessary.
I would strong advise that the original poster make 100% ALL bolts are out. Maybe a different set of eyes?
We all know that when we look at something numerous times, we tend to see the same thing. That can lead to not seeing what's necessary... just sayin.
 
>>>I would strong advise that the original poster make 100% ALL bolts are out.>>>


Excellent advice. I think 10. Not sure. But just don't feel like going out to the garage now to count. Maybe sometime tomar. .Sorry.
 
Zeke, Please post good, clear photos of that manifold (including close ups) of what you are dealing with BEFORE you begin you attack on that manifold. Potential for damage is too great.
 
Even if a few bolts were still on, I bet a big crowbar and a lotta muscle would do the job without damaging the block. Manifold might break though even if cast iron. :D
 
The first old ford I worked on, a model T, The engine would not come out even though I had removed "all " the bolts. The solution was to chain the motor up to the work bench, and pull on the car frame with moms car at the back. After the bench was torn from the wall, I figured out the rear radius rods and torque tube were attached to the transmission. Dad was not impressed.
 
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My old man told me a story when I was a kid, just starting to show an interest in cars. He had an old Gardner automobile back in the twenties that blew a head gasket. He also could not get the head off so he resorted to breaking it up and removing it piece by piece. When he got to the last piece, he saw a bolt right in the middle of the remaining chunk.

Are we seeing a pattern here?
 
"Even if a few bolts were still on, I bet a big crowbar and a lotta muscle would do the job without damaging the block. Manifold might break though even if cast iron."

Be careful. It would be very easy to crack or break off a piece of the block where the intake bolt threads are located as it's pretty thin in that area as shown here.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2850105769...lid=20006&customid=4581664967841097_377870104

Judiciously "tapping" the perimeter of the intake with a hammer drill and extension might help.
PLEASE post some photos.
 
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A sideways blow around the carb base will loosen one that isn't still bolted on.

Double check all the bolts are out first. Normally 10 per side.

Mart.
 
I would like to thank everyone for their reply to my question. I did go back and double check the number of bolts I removed. Several of you said ten on a side and I only removed nine on a side. My brother-in-law found the two behind the radiator hoses which I missed. I removed those two and with a small tap to the side of the manifold, it was loose. thank you once again.
Zeke
 
Glad you got a second pair of eyes on the job.
FWIW some aftermarket manifolds have less bolts than stock.
 
Years ago the Old man had a Flathead Nash Six. Went to take the head off. Found out there was an extra head bolt under the carb.
 
Off topic: a buddy called one evening and said, he broke a couple cooling fins already but the cylinderhead of his Norton Commando does not move at all despite having removed all nine bolts! I told him that there are ten bolts and one of them is buried right in the middle of the head below the fins.... voila - the head popped up when that last bolt was removed.
 
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