Stuck distributor, 302

40cpe

40cpe

Well-known member
On my continuing saga trying to resurrect a '69 302 after an engine fire and sitting 6 years: I have it running but the initial dwell is set on 0 degrees. The mechanical advance was frozen and I wanted to remove the distributor to repair or replace it but it is frozen solid! I've been soaking alternately with Blaster and carb cleaner around the base for two weeks. I've read the threads advising NOT to tap it but how else is one to get it moving? I've been applying a thin-faced chisel to the distributor base and block with no help. Heat usually gets corroded parts separated, but the close proximity with the timing cover and gasket worries me about that. I'm convinced that soaking isn't going to help. What is my next recourse? If I break the distributor will it be any easier to get the pieces out, or will I have opened a bigger can of worms? If you have dealt with this problem, what did you do? This is not my car, I'm doing this free-gratis to help someone and I need to get it gone.
 
I used to have fork attachment for a slide hammer that worked. Slid the fork under the main body of the distributor, and it made a fairly even pull straight upward. Lost it years ago, think it was a Snap-On product
 
I've always used a tool called a "lady slipper bar". They look like one of those carpenter wrecking bars. Use the hook end under the back of the dist. body, apply pressure to move it upwards while tapping under the front of the dist. by the advance unit. Always seem to work for me.
 
I've used the rust penetrants and did it daily for a couple of weeks then one of those rubber belt type wrench's to turn. I also had one that had to be driven from the bottom up and out. That one I had pried it enough that it snapped off and couldn't get ahold of anything.
 
I've chiseled under the hold-down flange to the opening in the block. When I broke into the small groove between the flange and the shoulder that goes into the block I found dry corrosion so I don't think any penetrant has soaked in to where it will help. I have a strap around the dist hooked to a hoist and lifted the front of the car about a foot off the springs. I'm trying to get courage to apply heat in fear of burning my garage down.
 

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I finally got it out. In the past few days I've drilled holes in the accessible side down by the bore in the block and kept soaking in carb spray and PB Blaster. This afternoon I remembered I have an air hammer that I've never used. While the hoist pulled up on the dist. housing, I hit the base with the round pointed bit in the air hammer, alternately in one direction of rotation and then the other. After a few blasts, the dist. popped out. I was relieved because I thought I was going to have to break the housing and fish out the pieces. Thanks for all your suggestions.
 

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make sure the oil pump drive rod is still in the oil pump. It may have dropped out in the process.
 
Also a better thing to soak things with is a 50/50 mixture of acetone and atf.
works wonders. Try it you'll like it.
 
When you put in a replacement clean the block hole and get generous with anti-seize lube on the new distributors O-ring.
 
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