Stuck Brake Drums

D

droman

Junior Member
I am new to Forums and I find them extremely valuable. Not sure if I am posting my questions correctly. I did start a post yesterday about my 59 Fairlane and now I have another question about my car but a different topic.
Anyone have a good way of removing rear brake drums on my 59 w/out destroying them? My friend and parts store manager does not have a listing for replacement drums for 57-59 fords. I know some websites have them but they are twice as much as what I can get them for from my friend.
I did free up the fronts.
Thanks,
Dave
 
If they are just stuck on the axle hub you can try heating the drum with a propane torch around the center where the axle hub protrudes then smacking it with a hammer between the wheel lug studs. Just be careful not to hit the studs. You can try smacking the drum without heating 1st, sometimes they'll come loose without heating.
 
If the drums will turn, soak with a good penetrant around the center and along all five studs, and do like Lowrider says. Smack it hard, use the biggest hammer you have. Maybe put the lug nuts on to protect the threads. Do this for days, turn and hit and soak.
 
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Uh did you loosen up the brake shoes? Don't ask me why. Back them off and whack the drum with a big hammer.
 
Yeah- My bad. I'm used to old fords that I have dug up in the past and I usually do back off the self-adjusters. Not comfortable getting under this car yet- I need bigger jackstands!
The car does roll freely.
Love to be in AZ right now!
Dave
 
get a long pry bar or screw driver, wedge it between the brake drum and backing plate, pull out on it and smack the out side of the drum all the way around, also hit the face of the drum between the lug bolts as your prying out on the drum, if you have a couple dead blow hammers you can use one as a back up as you hit the out side of the drum, doing that distorts the drum just a little relieving pressure and any rust bond that has built up, prying out on the drum makes it a lot easier to get it off
 
I just hit them, on the flat front, last time I used a large ball peen hammer, hit it with some good blows all around, might have to use that pry bar too, it should loosen right up. Might have to lossen up on the adjusters some if the shoes are swollen.
 
STEVE1103 said:
I just hit them, on the flat front, last time I used a large ball peen hammer, hit it with some good blows all around, might have to use that pry bar too, it should loosen right up. Might have to lossen up on the adjusters some if the shoes are swollen.
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The first thing to do is make sure the shoes are backed off to allow rotation. If the drum rotates freely but will not come off, it's frozen to the axle.
You really don't want to pry (with a bar or long object) the drum from the backing plate, as you can crack a full cast drum, or warp a composite drum along with the back plate.
It's best to carefully use heat and sensible hammer blows in between and below the studs, along with penetrating oil, and.....patience. Using too much hammer and heat can damage the drum and possibly bend the axle/flange.
Using one hand, pull on the outer edge of the drum while using the hammer with the other. (Make sure the car is secure so it can't move off the jack or stands) The hammer sound will change when the bond is broken, then usually rocking the drum with both hands will eventually allow it to pull off. :)
 
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Thanks V8Bob. The car does roll freely. I have driven it in and out of my garage several times. I do not hit the brakes.
I will work on it over the next few weeks.
Now for the engine....
Seperate post.
Dave
 
parklane said:
Just to let you know that self adjusting brakes weren't used by Ford until 1963 or 64.
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On my forum http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/group.php?groupid=332 We found that by looking up the brake shoe application and finding a mid 60's or later Ford that uses the same shoes you can easily swap to self adjusting brakes using readily available parts from the later model and you end up with new hardware which in some cases is no longer available for the 50's cars,here is an example:http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/group.php?do=discuss&discussionid=20141 In the case of your '59 look for 1966-68 Bronco which use #55 rear shoes also the dual master cylinder upgrade shown is a 1967 Mustang with front and rear drums and will work on your '59.
 
Re: Brake Drums
Anyone know if I can modify my existing 59 brakes to use drums that are newer than 1963? I would like to retain my original backing plates. Can I change the shoe pedestal stud mount at the top of the backing plate and install newer shoes/hardware?
 
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