stuck 30

back with you. Agree with Carl. MMO may be a liquid to start with. Either way let it sit a few days. Take your time. towing may work at some point. At some point you probably will want to remove the head for inspection since you don't know how good the engine was to begin with. Then you could tap the 3 pistons that are not on top dead center with a wooden hammer.

A great story at Hershey during one of the many Rainmaker chili cook-offs came from Karl. Karl had the great plan: find a piston part way down. Replace the start plug with a plug altered to hold a grease fitting. Pump the cylinder full of grease till the engine breaks free. worked. Karl's mistake was that he replaced the spark plugs and fired up the engine in a closed garage!! Black grease was deposited everywhere.
 
kroil atf acetone liquid wrench pbblaster all mixed together ought to do something.

Mind you the pistons may not be the stuck culprets as it could be the valve train.
 
Purdy Swoft said:
Kroil , preferably silikroil ! A thin penetrant works best for me .
Click to expand...

Yep. Kroil is purpose-made to free stuck parts due to rust, like a stuck piston & rings. It's a very high quality product and you will find it in shops of professionals that know.

I suggest the non-aerosol version since the Kroil slowly (more than one year) attacks the aerosol can seals and bleeds out the propellants.
 
1930-Pickup said:
Yep. Kroil is purpose-made to free stuck parts due to rust, like a stuck piston & rings. It's a very high quality product and you will find it in shops of professionals that know.

I suggest the non-aerosol version since the Kroil slowly (more than one year) attacks the aerosol can seals and bleeds out the propellants.
Click to expand...

I have cans over 10 years old that aren't leaking.
 
michael a said:
Vinegar

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Click to expand...

Vinegar in the cylinders?
No, no and heck no
Vinegar is way to acidic, will be a pain in the arse to get out, and although it works to remove rust from radiators it would set the stage for flash rusting of the cylinder walls and pistons and any other components it comes in contact with.
Let's stick with the petroleum products for this area
But it's your salad, put on it what you wish.
 
burner31 said:
Vinegar in the cylinders?
No, no and heck no
Vinegar is way to acidic, will be a pain in the arse to get out, and although it works to remove rust from radiators it would set the stage for flash rusting of the cylinder walls and pistons and any other components it comes in contact with.
Let's stick with the petroleum products for this area
But it's your salad, put on it what you wish.
Click to expand...
You're right it's my salad

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I put MMO in the cylinders and let it sit for 2 weeks, then put the car in 2nd gear and gently started to pushed the car back and forth until it broke free.
 
SeaSlugs said:
kroil atf acetone liquid wrench pbblaster all mixed together ought to do something.

Mind you the pistons may not be the stuck culprets as it could be the valve train.
Click to expand...

I agree , more times than not it will be a stuck closed valve. If you can turn the engine backwards even a little it is probably a stuck valve . A good way to make this test is to remove the starter and use a cheater bar on the teeth of the flywheel. remember , the engine turns clockwise when it runs . you want to see if the engine will turn just a little in the counter clockwise direction . I wouldn't remove the head unless it was the VERY last resort . Seeing the tops of the pistons really doesn't tell you much of anything . If it turns out to be a stuck valve , I would remove the manifolds and valve cover. Its pretty easy to spray aerosol sili kroil through the ports to the valve stems . In worse cases I have used vice grips on the lower mushroom end of the valve stem and work it back and fourth while oiling.
 
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Brought home a little 29 Sport coupe that had been sitting since 1964 in an old garage. Motor would not turn in either direction. patiently lubed and waited ! Studied and waited turns out the distributor was locked up. Gently removed distributor dismantled it and rebuilt it engine was fine!
Think "Patience is Mandatory" when tying to solve these issues
 
There is a YouTube video on this subject.
The guy cleverly put oil in cylinders and left a brick weight on the crank handle til it let loose.
CB919ER's suggestion is also very good. Good Luck. Jeff
 
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