STS exhaust baffles

Ralph,
What are STS baffles? I have exhaust baffles in my center ports on my engine, but don't know what the STS is?
Thanks
Jim
 
STS baffles are made by "Spiral Turbo Specialties" they go into your exhaust pipes and you don't need to use a muffler/packs, supposedly (they say) they are tuneable. Look neat.
Ralph
 
I don't recomend using the center exhaust divider for several reasons. First, their a bit** to install properly. Second, if they come loose their a bit** to fix. Third, they don't offer any performance improvements below 4K. Forth, they don't offer any performance improvements unless you have a cam with a very large overlap. You have to understand WHY you'd use them in the first place. Yes, I had them in the Bville engine.
 
Dividers and baffles change that wonderful stock flathead sound. Even pennys in the riser crossover have an effect. On the performance flatheads the sound changes anyway so it's just part of the mix with them. I'm sure every type of baffle has been tried before but the sound results can either make it favorable or a dud depending on what the owner wants.
 
I did a great deal of research to prove to myself that they work. Regardless of cam duration or overlap, they work.
Yes, they change the flathead sound. It's gone, but I believe it's worth it. JMO
Jim
 
These STS things are placed inside your tailpipes,are not the middle block baffle. They are supposedly tuneable to achieve whatever sound you are wanting. Take the hard "rap" outta the straight pipes (unless you dig that rap) They can be placed anywhere in tailpipe, I think if I go down for a set I will put them at rear next to tips and see what happens. Seem to not be a biggy to install and reinstall till you get what you want.
Ralph
 
I have also used the dividers with what I consider good results. At least the motors I put them in ran cooler and they are a bitc. to install properly.
 
When I first started racing I used them, never saw a difference. Tire pressure in the right front was more important. Most of the engine builders at that time tried them at least once, very few liked them. I do believe they'd work in a Bville or hydro engine,But?? The theory is that on a long duration cam the ex valve is still open when the opsite ex valve opens under hi pressure, thus diluting the mixture. With a mild cam this doezn't happen. However if it feels good, do it.
 
You guys sure have thrown me a curve. I am in the middle of a merc flathead rebuild. I have the L100 cam, running stock heads to start and will probably break it in with a single carb. I have been waiting a month on a distributor from Bubba. I did a lot of smoothing and knocking down corners on the porting. I have the exhaust dividers and had plans on installing them. I read something about using Irontite to help hold them inplace, which did not give any details, so it might as well have said, use the 3rd quirk of an unbalanced atom. Alright guys you started this, so I need guidance.
 
First of all, they must be fitted so that the bottom of the wedge sits good and flat in the port. I increase the countersink in them slightly and run a allen screw down thru the stud hole to stake them, then run the stud down on top of that allen screw.
 
jimTN said:
First of all, they must be fitted so that the bottom of the wedge sits good and flat in the port. I increase the countersink in them slightly and run a allen screw down thru the stud hole to stake them, then run the stud down on top of that allen screw.
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I do not have them in hand, but have looked at them and can relate to the increase in the countersink and fitting the bottom to fit flat against the floor of the port. Does the allen screw come in from the side on the stud hole or in the bottom of the stud hole? Oh, are you talking about running it between the block and the stud hole to keep the stud from moving? or maybe in the baffle down in the threads, half in the stud and half in the baffle?
 
Railroad
Contact 36Tbird on this forum, or on the Hamb. He has an excellent picture of how to secure those dividers. I thought I had a good picture of mine, but can't find it. Maybe he can also describe the installation procedure. It is quite different from what you may expect. Expect some controversy
Jim
 
Kahuna said:
Railroad
Contact 36Tbird on this forum, or on the Hamb. He has an excellent picture of how to secure those dividers. I thought I had a good picture of mine, but can't find it. Maybe he can also describe the installation procedure. It is quite different from what you may expect. Expect some controversy
Jim
Click to expand...

Thanks for the leads and advise and I need to apologize for hi jacking someone else's thread.
 
Allen screw goes down thur the stud threads in the block on top of the wedge. This is just one way to do it that works. I am sure there are others out there.
 
This is the way I do it. I like the Bronze type that fit up into the intake manifole heat rizer. These cast units take alittle grinding and shaping to fit well. You can also grind a little off the block to improve flow. The trick here is drilling the divider to except the allen screw. I sink this into the divider about 1/8" to prevent moving. Now here the bad news. Aftee installing them on a street engine the constant heat eats away at the Allen screw and after a few years the divider comes loose and slides down blocking the port, but not completely so the engine just doesn't run right and you can't figger out why. Been ther done that. I have no Idea why someone would put this in a street engine when it doesn't do much for a compition engine.
 
When the block comes back from the machine shop, I am going to see if I want to tackle it or not. I have some stainless and am sure I can make a set, weld a nut on and drill into the port through the water passage and bolt in, but that is a lot for a street engine, I think. I guess you can tell, I am undecided.
 
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