strong waterflow

[Jacksonlll]

You must be boiling over at sustained 45 MPH. If you are not boiling, after a steady 10 to 12 min at 45, then you do have a mystery. If it loses enough coolant to cause boiling, then your new core is plugged. Don't blame the pump. When people cut down the impeller, they are just reducing the pump capacity. A free flowing core can take all the water the pump can put out.

 

[JDupuis]

HI René, I like that "cup" you made. But as you stated, it will then act as a funnel for the overflow. If you have any spare plastic fuel line left over; maybe you could extent your overflow pipe an inch or two,(closer to the rad cap) then try your cup with the hose extended up through it. This might help. The rad still needs to breathe and this might help to stop it from siphoning itself too low. Jeff

 

[René W]

@JacksonIII........The rad or core is not the problem,with the old pump there was no overflow.
Now the new pump is more powerful and squirts the coolant into the fillerneck where the coolant is pouring into the overflow pipe even when the level in the radiator is half way down.
It is not so much coolant thats get lost but it flows from the bottom of the overflow pipe onto the crosmember and engine.
Also when i park the Tudor people keep telling me it has a leak,i'll hate that.
I don't want to reduce the amount of flow,just reduce the power.

 

[Cornishman]

The core was done by BLAAK RADIATOR SERVICE a weel known firm in the Netherlands who is specialized in vintage radiators,they even make a complete factory replica if you want to.http://www.blaak-radiateuren.nl/nl_NL/

Thanks for posting that link, things like that may be very useful for me.
I thought that I had a circulation problem but it turned out to be a hole in the cylinder head, the compression stroke of the No. 1 cylinder was putting a lot of unwanted pressure into the cooling system. Since I fitted a new head it's all been fine. Good luck, I hope you find the solution to your problem.

 

[René W]

HI René, I like that "cup" you made. But as you stated, it will then act as a funnel for the overflow. If you have any spare plastic fuel line left over; maybe you could extent your overflow pipe an inch or two,(closer to the rad cap) then try your cup with the hose extended up through it. This might help. The rad still needs to breathe and this might help to stop it from siphoning itself too low. Jeff

Oops missed your post..........
The platic fuel line solution i did already...........it did'nt work out so well.
I also plugged the overflow pipe but then it blows against the readiator cap which has a breather hole and it bubbles out of the breather hole.
The problem is just the location of the top inlet on the radiator,if it was not in the middle there would'nt be a problem.
I am still thinking of creating not a restrictor but a deflector to point the flow sideways,away from the filler neck.

 

[Synchro909]

I'm think that when your radiator was rebuilt either the baffle was left out or was installed incorrectly. You might very well find that a thermostat will cure the problem anyway. I think it is worth having one anyway.

 

[Bob C]

Oops missed your post..........
The platic fuel line solution i did already...........it did'nt work out so well.
I also plugged the overflow pipe but then it blows against the readiator cap which has a breather hole and it bubbles out of the breather hole.
The problem is just the location of the top inlet on the radiator,if it was not in the middle there would'nt be a problem.
I am still thinking of creating not a restrictor but a deflector to point the flow sideways,away from the filler neck.

If the radiator was restored correctly it should already have a baffle in it.

Bob

 

[Tom Wesenberg]

I'm think that when your radiator was rebuilt either the baffle was left out or was installed incorrectly. You might very well find that a thermostat will cure the problem anyway. I think it is worth having one anyway.

X2........A thermostat is a very good thing to have and it helps with some of the flow problems.
I don't even see your overflow pipe in your pictures.
I'll go out and take a picture of my original 1928 radiator overflow pipe and baffle.

People can replace a blocked radiator, but make sure the block is clean when you do it, or you may send a lot of rust flakes to plug up the new core.

 

[rocket1]

Breather hole in radiator cap? Why?

 

[Tom Wesenberg]

Breather hole in radiator cap? Why?

Glad you mentioned that, because I had a feeling there was something else I forgot.

The radiator uses a sealed cap, not to be mixed up with the gas cap with a vent.

 

[René W]

Breather hole in radiator cap? Why?

It was there when i bought the car............it is not really a breather hole but there was an idiot ornament ford script bolted on the cap,i removed it and put a flathead bolt in place........
There is no baffle in the radiator,i will call the company who did the new core and gonna learn them some new words&^%$##
Not bringing the radiator back though,first i'll try to make a baffle myself and if that fails install a thermostat

 

[eagle]

1: As already mentioned, the cap needs to be sealed. 2: The radiator must have a proper baffle. ( or see 4) 3: No need to grind down the pump impeller, more flow equals more turbulence which equals better cooling and less hot spots. 4: I would devise a trap of some kind for the overflow tube to keep the coolant out while still allowing gasses to escape/ pressure bleed off. 5: You are obviously getting lots of flow through the radiator, the gushing water under the cap is proof of that. Contrary to popular opinion, the pump CANNOT pump more water than the radiator can flow, its a closed system. Good luck working through your issue, you have got some good people giving you advice.

 

[Tom Wesenberg]

Here's a picture of my cap and pictures of the overflow pipe and baffle. The SERVICE BULLETINS said to bend the pipe to face rearward to lower the possibility of coolant flowing out the pipe. Since I cleaned my radiator and block, I don't loose coolant out the pipe, so I'll leave it as it was made.

You can see the correct gasket to seal the cap, and the other pictures show some of the baffle. By using a flashlight you can see the antifreeze just over the radiator tubes.

 

[jm29henry]

Please let us know how it works out

 

[Quigley1930]

I'm no engineer but it looks as if your overflow tube is way short and the hole in your cup is too small. Put an extension on the pipe and enlarge the hole in the cup. To me it looks as if the cup fills up and with the short pipe the water has no where to go but out the pipe.
The original baffles only slowed the flow (I think) you are catching it. I may be way off base here but as I said I'm no engineer!!!:::

Sewall

 

[René W]

A BIG thanks to all of you good people,The pic's Tom Wesenberg showes make a lot clear for me.
The pipe in mine is a bit shorter,probably 1 inch,extending it in combination with the cup i've made should do the trick i hope.
I don't think i can make a baffle without dismanteling the radiator so i leave it as it is.
Today i am going to the annualfirst meeting from the model A owners club Holland where also a lot of skilled guys should be so i think they will have perhaps good advice for me.
I let you guys know how things turned out.
René

 

[JDupuis]

Hey René, post #22 is what I was trying to explain. But thanks to Tom, a picture is worth a thousand words. Your cup should act as the baffle, with the extended overflow pipe right up to, and under the cap. As stated though, seal up the rad cap. The overflow pipe allows it to breathe. I have rads on my cars where the overflow is too short. I extend their length by sliding a snug fitting plastic hose over them. Works for me. Jeff

 

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Do you have a thermostat? fitting one will slow down the flow because of the restriction in the top hose. Alternatively, put a roofing nail in the overflow pipe.

I found that this worked on Minerva, using a 160 degree thermostat! That's an EASY, QUICK way to control the flow. She didn't even have a baffle, allowing me to see some RUST flakes in the top of some radiator tubes. This causes the need for REGULAR backflushing! The head & block is OOOOLD iron & it's like a "factory", producing RUST flakes------RUST FLAKES are the most common cause of overheating
I've described how to make a CHEEP backflusher by using an expanding "plumbers helper" & a blow gun with a long skinny tube. Just poke it in the back end of the lower pipe & BLOW-BLOW-BLOW--(Just remember to remove your thermostat FIRST) "Modern" cars use thermostats to cause proper flow at ALL speeds & temperatures!
"Sometimes" the cause of a problem can be overlooked, through "overthinking" it
YES, I repeat a lot, BUT, repetition is the MOTHER of learning & the FATHER of BOREDOM! (Whatever that means???)
Bill Cool

 

[René W]

Yesterday i went to the annual meeting of the dutch model a club,some members looked at the problem but did not come up with another solution as i did.
However they told me the radiator i had recored was'nt a original cooling block but a more modern,a bit narrower and thicker as original,this explains to me the radiator shop did a good job but i deliverd the wrong one.
Now with the cup i've made i only loose some drops and i still have to put a piece of tube to the overflow pipe so this will solve the problem probably.
At the swapmeet i bought a new cap and an old jack,not sure if it is a model A jack but it is old and will do the job.
It was a cold drive...........brrrrrrrr,

 

[johnbuckley]

1: As already mentioned, the cap needs to be sealed. 2: The radiator must have a proper baffle. ( or see 4) 3: No need to grind down the pump impeller, more flow equals more turbulence which equals better cooling and less hot spots. 4: I would devise a trap of some kind for the overflow tube to keep the coolant out while still allowing gasses to escape/ pressure bleed off. 5: You are obviously getting lots of flow through the radiator, the gushing water under the cap is proof of that. Contrary to popular opinion, the pump CANNOT pump more water than the radiator can flow, its a closed system.....

Totally agree with you Eagle on all those points ... here's an overflow on one of mine , (also useful if suspicious of a head leak- one can get a real long piece of tubing feed it out through the hood to observe.