Stromberg 97 Repair?

Solid brass bushings are available. Drill 33/64", tap 9/16-18. Internal threads are 7/16-24, same as original. Done right, they're stronger than the potmetal.
 
Mine has run fine with epoxy for many years. My choke bolt and accelerator pump pivot bolt are also epoxied on. All work fine for many years.
 
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Mine has run fine with epoxy for many years. My choke bolt and accelerator pump are also epoxied on. All work fine for many years.

Does this mean that you would recommend everyone use this "farmer" repair and chance an under the hood fire??
 
Fix it right Henry,that farmer fix is going to get you in trouble some day. ken ct. Dont be penny wise and dollar foolish.
 
Does this mean that you would recommend everyone use this "farmer" repair and chance an under the hood fire??

No. You'll notice that I did not suggest anyone else do this, only that I did and it worked for me in response to the original question "Will epoxy hold?" If there's a better way I'm all for it. This is all I knew all of those years ago when I was "on my own" doing what I could with the limited knowledge I had (like - no knowledge) before knowing anything of any Ford forums or anyone else that even owned Fords or any place to buy Ford parts. Just lucky I guess for those many years. I've since replaced that Stromberg with a Holley 94.

I do like to jump in though when the "know-it-alls" issue absolute "do not do this" or "fix it right" kinds of commands or condescending cliche's like "don't be penny wise and pound foolish." "Farmer" fixes have worked wonders for many people for many years (and not just farmers). I just like to "elbow in" every once in a while with a differing opinion to show that there is room for such and that, although there may at times be a best way, it is not always the only way as some so adamantly advocate. Although I like Uncle Max's idea, if you wanna get real technical, there is arguably even a better one in my opinion. Spring $400 to $600 for a new Stromberg 97 that is now being made. Maybe even Uncle Max's idea would seem a "farmer" fix compared to that one.:)
 
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Alan, Uncle Max gave you the best advice. Use his bushing to fix that problem or send that 97 to him for a complete rehab. He also sells those beautiful English 97's for those who demand the finest reproduction 97 carburetor available.

Henry, to your point there are epoxies made that will hold up in some pretty tough applications including repairs on parts used in and around gasoline and other similar liquids. These epoxies could be used for emergency 'field' repairs if necessary but if I ever had to make a quick emergency repair like on one of those inline valve threads or maybe a leaking gas tank....I would change it to a better/safer fix like Uncle Max's threaded sleeve or a new gas tank as soon as I got back home! Fires can be devastating to say the least.

How do I repair a striped inlet threads where it goes into the float bowl? Will Expony hold?
Thank you, Alan
info@foreverinstone.com[/QUOTE']
 
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No. You'll notice that I did not suggest anyone else do this, only that I did and it worked for me in response to the original question "Will epoxy hold?" If there's a better way I'm all for it. This is all I knew all of those years ago when I was "on my own" doing what I could with the limited knowledge I had (like - no knowledge) before knowing anything of any Ford forums or anyone else that even owned Fords or any place to buy Ford parts. Just lucky I guess for those many years. I've since replaced that Stromberg with a Holley 94.

I do like to jump in though when the "know-it-alls" issue absolute "do not do this" or "fix it right" kinds of commands or condescending cliche's like "don't be penny wise and pound foolish." "Farmer" fixes have worked wonders for many people for many years (and not just farmers). I just like to "elbow in" every once in a while with a differing opinion to show that there is room for such and that, although there may at times be a best way, it is not always the only way as some so adamantly advocate. Although I like Uncle Max's idea, if you wanna get real technical, there is arguably even a better one in my opinion. Spring $400 to $600 for a new Stromberg 97 that is now being made. Maybe even Uncle Max's idea would seem a "farmer" fix compared to that one.:)

Henry,
People come here for advice. When you tell them that epoxy worked for you, they take that as a suggestion that it will work for them too. You didn't tell them to do it, but you didn't tell them NOT to either. Oh, and there's a world of difference between your epoxy and Uncle Max's cure and you know it. I see no reason to replace the carb if you can tap it to a new thread size and fit a new outlet.

To the OP: There are oversize outlets for your problem. Try www.vintagespeed.com
 
The EPOXEY is nothing but a band-aid.I say again fix it right,i dont care who fixes it but do it right.ken ct.
 
Solid brass bushings are available. Drill 33/64", tap 9/16-18. Internal threads are 7/16-24, same as original. Done right, they're stronger than the potmetal.

I'll second Uncle Max's suggestion. I've used his brass inlets before. Quality part!!
 
Henry,
People come here for advice. When you tell them that epoxy worked for you, they take that as a suggestion that it will work for them too. You didn't tell them to do it, but you didn't tell them NOT to either.

I am not as quick to tell people what to do or not to do as some on this forum are. I think that would be pretty vain to think that I knew it all and had the only true answer. I share my experience and figure anyone else with a different experience will share theirs and after considering everyone's experiences the one seeking advice will make up his own mind and do what he thinks is best. If I were to tell someone exactly what to do, they did it, and it backfired on them, they might blame me. That's a little too heavy a load for me to bear. That's why I'm usually pretty soft pedal on giving imperative advice. JM 35 Sedan's "soft pedal" approach (#8) is much more to my liking.
 
Did you notice how Uncle Max gave his Excellent advice? Very polite and didn't put anybody down. Unlike some other "Experts" on here.
Bill
 
Did you notice how Uncle Max gave his Excellent advice? Very polite and didn't put anybody down. Unlike some other "Experts" on here.
Bill

I noticed. He did good. No commanding imperatives like "do it this way or else" although I had a hard time understanding it. I think I figured it out after a few reads. Would have been nice to have him give a source for this bushing he was talking about.:confused:
 
I noticed. He did good. No commanding imperatives like "do it this way or else" although I had a hard time understanding it. I think I figured it out after a few reads. Would have been nice to have him give a source for this bushing he was talking about.:confused:
They've been a real life saver. My local machinist makes them up for me. He cringes when he sees me coming, since he holds them without a collet. I usually bring him a box of band-aids when I pick 'em up...
I try and keep a dozen on the shelf. Band-aids too.
 
I am not as quick to tell people what to do or not to do as some on this forum are. I think that would be pretty vain to think that I knew it all and had the only true answer. I share my experience and figure anyone else with a different experience will share theirs and after considering everyone's experiences the one seeking advice will make up his own mind and do what he thinks is best. If I were to tell someone exactly what to do, they did it, and it backfired on them, they might blame me. That's a little too heavy a load for me to bear. That's why I'm usually pretty soft pedal on giving imperative advice. JM 35 Sedan's "soft pedal" approach (#8) is much more to my liking.

Despite the occasional use of emoticons, you can't always gauge the tenor of someone's written word. Sometimes when people make definitive statements, it's not because they are vainly barking orders but rather because that's the only answer they have at the time.

The OP clearly and distinctly asked if epoxy would work. You clearly said it worked for you, at least implying that it would work for him. You didn't demand or order him to do so (avoiding that heavy load?), but you caught some flak for the "farmer fix" from the crowd.

In my mind, this is how these forums should work, even if they cause minor personality clashes from time to time.
 
They've been a real life saver. My local machinist makes them up for me. He cringes when he sees me coming, since he holds them without a collet. I usually bring him a box of band-aids when I pick 'em up...
I try and keep a dozen on the shelf. Band-aids too.

Looks to me like the idea that the majority thought was the best idea turns out not to be readily available if the only way to get the part is to take a load of band-aids down to the local machinist to have him make the part. Looks like even this solution involves band-aids for which mine was so sorely condemned. Anyone else got a better idea or are we back to epoxy?:confused:
 
Uncle Max has always been your man with a good plan!! :cool: The only problem he has ever had (I learned this from his previous posts :)) is when folks with hands like large chickens handle these carburetors or carburetor parts before he gets them in his hands, which are like the hands of a skilled surgeon :D. Based on seeing some of his personal work on rebuilding these Stromberg 97's, they do look like a work of fine art to me!!
 
I should mention that unless you're a real deadeye with the tap, it's a good idea to spotface the gasket surface afterwards. I use a 7/16-24 pilot in a handheld counterbore tool. Works well.
 
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