Stromberg 97 carbs leaking
- Thread starter Displayman
- Start date
Enbloc
Senior Member
The conditions you describe are classic high float/fuel level.
You can take the carb tops off and turn the fuel pump on. The fuel level should set in each carb and stay there. Compare fuel level heights of both carbs and adjust floats if need be.
1 lbs of pressure is too little. 2.5 is better. The 1 lbs of pressure is masking the real problem.
You can take the carb tops off and turn the fuel pump on. The fuel level should set in each carb and stay there. Compare fuel level heights of both carbs and adjust floats if need be.
1 lbs of pressure is too little. 2.5 is better. The 1 lbs of pressure is masking the real problem.
flatmotor40
Well-known member
I have a set of the Super 7's and teh little chrome reg that Mr Gasket sells went bad and my electric pumps puts out 6psi and it blew by the needle and liked not got home but had gas in oil pan.Sent carbs back to Speedway they sent me new ones changed reg to Holley running 2 psi seems to be fine but I ad to change to two hoses instead of one to the fuel log would not pump up to the top fitting can you block off one of the reg fittings and run the banjo fittiing to each carb.Don't like the lok of 2 hoses
Deuce Man
Well-known member
I have been playing with flatheads since my first one in 61. leaky carbs whether strombergs or holleys are usually from warped gasket surfaces. I have a pair of 97s on my 50 merc powered 32 I have been driving them for six years now without so much as a burp! the guy ( charlie price of vintage speed ) who rebuilt them mills all gasket surfaces-big difference.my carbs were chromed a million years or so ago and look nice without all that brown we are used to seeing on them precise gasket surfaces get my vote!
Bruce Lancaster
Member Emeritus
But...if a Stromberg leaks running at idle, level may very well be too high. Once car is moving you have sloshing, and then the gas will find your warping problems!
I also prefer bending to sanding on Stromberg tops. They are thin and frequently warped, and sanding further weakens them and gives a really odd look to that area on the worst warped ones.
I use a flat aluminum plate drilled to take the lid, and screw the thing down on a gasket with front corners cut away to give a little extra room...then padded C clamps slowly take them down.
I have met people who add heat (be careful--these things melt about two degrees higher than butter!) and people who use essentially body working tech...whack with a hammer.
I suspect that would work too...I once successfully worked the damage out of the groove area at aircleaner position on a Stromberg that had been dropped on its head.
A steady very light hammer beat moved the metal on back home, just like a dented fender.
I also prefer bending to sanding on Stromberg tops. They are thin and frequently warped, and sanding further weakens them and gives a really odd look to that area on the worst warped ones.
I use a flat aluminum plate drilled to take the lid, and screw the thing down on a gasket with front corners cut away to give a little extra room...then padded C clamps slowly take them down.
I have met people who add heat (be careful--these things melt about two degrees higher than butter!) and people who use essentially body working tech...whack with a hammer.
I suspect that would work too...I once successfully worked the damage out of the groove area at aircleaner position on a Stromberg that had been dropped on its head.
A steady very light hammer beat moved the metal on back home, just like a dented fender.