Stroker kit

CajunCrawfish

CajunCrawfish

Member
Getting ready to put the money out for a stroker kit. Looking at the "SCAT 304 KIT" and a Similar Kit from "FLATLANDER RACING". Any feed back on either kit and its quality would be greatly appreciated. Going to port the runners in the block and looking for an intake to work with it also. Flow numbers would be nice if any one has them for any performance intake 1946 block 3-3/8 bore 4.25 stroke. Cam undecided as I dont have any flow numbers Typical for the flathead. Found good info on head mods. Any info will be gladly accepted.:D:D:D
 
This is a big engine and will produce a great deal of torque. It will cool off most cams, but i'd go with the L-100. Watch your CR. A 500 cf 4bl will feed it nicely and tuning will be easier than multi carbs. A conversion to 8BA style distributor eill give better options for ignitions like mSD w/vac. Good luck
 
If this is a street and sometimes race engine, a SCAT crank will work ok.
If this a go fast race only engine, do not use a cast crank.(SCAT)
Computer capacitor discharge type ignitions lend themselves to easy reprogramming
where you are going to be street driving and running ocassionally at the drag strip,
rather than a conventional ignition.
I would consider a 304 a mid size engine. Big starts at 315 and goes up from there.
At 304 it is very easy to get the compression too high for 92 street gas so keep that in mind and don't go too wild on the compression unless it is race only.
 
Pete said:
If this is a street and sometimes race engine, a SCAT crank will work ok.
If this a go fast race only engine, do not use a cast crank.(SCAT)
Computer capacitor discharge type ignitions lend themselves to easy reprogramming
where you are going to be street driving and running ocassionally at the drag strip,
rather than a conventional ignition.
I would consider a 304 a mid size engine. Big starts at 315 and goes up from there.
At 304 it is very easy to get the compression too high for 92 street gas so keep that in mind and don't go too wild on the compression unless it is race only.
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Or you have gas available that has more than 92 octane.
Here (Germany) you can get 102 at any station.....
 
One thing i would do is to have the block sonic tested for the wall thickness
for such a big bore
The machine shop can "move" the holes a little to center in the casting.
 
I think you will find the kit from Flatlander to actually be a SCAT kit. Take a look at Speedway and compare pricing.

The port flow numbers will depend on several factors---in other words one man's ported block differs from another. If you are talking about a reliable street engine a flow of about 105 to 110 CFM @ 28" when lift is .425 is something to shoot for. Most people don't realize the valve can be completely removed after .425 lift and the flow changes very little. Be aware the heads can have a huge affect on the flow numbers. Getting high compression while maintainig high flow are pretty much in opposite camps. Good flow aids maximum HP but reduces compression and lower speed torque. If the engine is for competition, how far do you want to go? Bigger valves, special guides, epoxy filled holes, and dozens of flow tests??

If the engine is to be a street driver, and performance is actually important, select a cam design that matches the RPM range the engine will most often see. Don't select a cam based on any port flow guesses. If the engine is for competition have a special steel roller camshft made as nothing else can give maximum performance. Now, after saying that, I will go further and say the difference between any of the top performance camshafts is very small. It is likely the competence of the tuner is far more important. My top selection for a flat tappet cam is the Potvin 425.

Read my book for some ideas on what it takes to achieve good port flow numbers and some other information you probably need.
 
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A agree with JWL,the potvin 425 is a good cam,we had one in our old dragster engine,
We buit a new engine and Crow cams made a special roller cam for us,it went like the clappers,much better than the potvin 425,mind you the blower helped.
Lawrie
 
HotRodmicky said:
Or you have gas available that has more than 92 octane.
Here (Germany) you can get 102 at any station.....
Click to expand...

Interesting. Is that 102 road octane or 102 research octane? Or is it leaded?

I'd guess research and that would mean it is more like 95 road vs 93 road super in the USA.
 
mrtexas said:
Interesting. Is that 102 road octane or 102 research octane? Or is it leaded?

I'd guess research and that would mean it is more like 95 road vs 93 road super in the USA.
Click to expand...


No.

Aral ultimate 102

is the name

and

Aral Super 95: min. 95,0 ROZ/85,0 MOZ
Aral Super 95 E10: min. 95,0 ROZ/85,0 MOZ
Aral SuperPlus 98: min. 98,0 ROZ/88,0 MOZ
Aral Ultimate 102: min. 102 ROZ/88,0 MOZ


This is all the fuel Aral sells

Unleaded

We have good woman, beer and fuel here in Germany.... :-)
 
We have good woman, beer and fuel here in Germany.... :-)

HotRodmicky,

That is my kind of place, a good selection of all. I'm assuming neither your women or gas are corn fed?
 
Ol' Ron said:
This is a big engine and will produce a great deal of torque. It will cool off most cams, but i'd go with the L-100. Watch your CR. A 500 cf 4bl will feed it nicely and tuning will be easier than multi carbs. A conversion to 8BA style distributor eill give better options for ignitions like mSD w/vac. Good luck
Click to expand...



Hey thanks Ol Ron! I appreciate your advice :D:D:D!!!
 
Pete , Hotrodmicky, Ol Ron and JWL, I realy appreciate the wise tech information it; has helped me make my decisions with good caution and a solid foot and no doubt about what the results will be. May take a couple months before I post a video of the engine runing. It will do well and I hope will make you glad you responded. Im confident it will.
 
I was thinking of a street engine. If your intending on racing it, I can't help you much, Good luck.
 
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