Stripped threads on my axle

Just remember that these axle nuts take over 200 lbs of torque (but not exceeding 275) - and the whole purpose is to really mate the hub bore surface onto the tapered axle surface. Whatever solution you come up with, remember there is a reason to have that amount of torque - so don't go 'light' with it and end up stripping an axle key, breaking an axle, having a wheel/drum fall off . . . or causing other drama because you were either afraid or couldn't apply the torque that it requires.

Just wanted us all to remember that this particular nut has probably the highest torque of any nut on the car - for good reason.

B&S
 
Just a thought ::: because the Drum / Nut was loose or even if he changes the axel should he consider using valve lapping compound & lap the axel tapper & the hub to get a smooth matting surface , I think I remember a thread a while back that told how to do this ~ ~ Also am I correct in thinking that because both hubs were loose that both keyways should be replaced ?
 
MuskegonFlatheadFan said:
cracks in the axle keyways are very possible, and not detected until the drums are removed. Make your decision after disassembly and inspection.
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When I get home just before Christmas I plan to pull both rear drums and give it a good look over. In the meantime I will new nuts and maybe a gasket kit and drum retainers. Then I can proceed from there.

Thanks for all the advise.
Good stuff!
 
BILL WZOREK said:
Just a thought ::: because the Drum / Nut was loose or even if he changes the axel should he consider using valve lapping compound & lap the axel tapper & the hub to get a smooth matting surface , I think I remember a thread a while back that told how to do this ~ ~ Also am I correct in thinking that because both hubs were loose that both keyways should be replaced ?
Click to expand...

How would you replace the "keyways?" Do you mean the keys themselves? I bought new keys for my axles due to one looking a little beat up from being loose. I bought a replacement axle for other reasons.
 
When I bought my 1939 PU, The axle nuts were on a little more than finger tight. I pulled the drums and one axle was split along the keyway and had to be replaced. I had to assume that the nut being not tight caused this.
 
klicker said:
How would you replace the "keyways?" Do you mean the keys themselves? I bought new keys for my axles due to one looking a little beat up from being loose. I bought a replacement axle for other reasons.
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YES !! same nation different name for things ~ here we always called them KEYWAYS but that does bring up a good point. what would we call the slot that the keyway when into ???? I don't really know !!! :eek:
 
BILL WZOREK said:
YES !! same nation different name for things ~ here we always called them KEYWAYS but that does bring up a good point. what would we call the slot that the keyway when into ???? I don't really know !!! :eek:
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Bill, As a tool maker, we called the slot a "key way" or key slot". The key was simply that, the "key".
 
NO!! The slot is the KEY WAY. The "KEY" is the square piece of stock that fits into the slot.
 
Okay
Update
I finally got the car inside the shop and pull the drum.
I pretty sure I have to change the axle. I was hoping for an easy fix with a split die but the threads are too far gone.
I have to strip a couple of rear ends I have an pick the best parts.

I didn't see a crack but that's a moot point. I will have to pull the other drum as well.
I was planning on doing it in the car but if I pulled the whole rear out I could freshen everything up.

Here is a picture of the threads
 

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Lindsay, You can do the job without dropping the banjo. What else would you want to freshen up? If the gearing is to your liking, just use a spring spreader to get the shackles off and go for it. While you're in there, check the condition of the outer wheel bearing surface on the bells. The bottom side is where they wear, so with your '36, you can flip side to side to put the wear on the top of the opposite side. This won't work on '37 & up, due to the integral spring hangers.
Note: be careful with the dismantle, so you can identify the banjo gaskets quantity and thickness on each side for the reinstall.
 
Regarding cleaning up the taper on the axle and hub, I recently did this on the car. The tapers were really rough, deep grooves etc. First, I blocked both front wheels, in both directions. Then, I jacked up one rear wheel with the tire on the rim. I removed the axle nut and washer, removed the wheel, applied some valve compound to the taper, and rotated the wheel by hand, applying inward pressure at the same time. I worked at this for maybe 30 minutes and saw hardly any improvement, so I decided to speed the process up.
With the front wheels still blocked, I jacked up both rear wheels. I remove the wheel opposite the one I was trying to repair. I put a long bar between two of the wheel studs with one end on the floor to prevent that axle from turning but still make the other axle turn. I clamped the bar to the hub so it couldn't escape.
Then, with the wheel off, I started the car and put the trans in low gear. I slid the wheel onto the axle on which I was cleaning the taper. Since I didn't know just how the whole thing was going to react, I really took it slow and easy. The wheel slid on easily and I could soon feel the taper engaging. By applying pressure to the wheel, the compound did its work. I had to take the wheel off several times to clean the taper and apply new compound. It didn't take very long to come up with a very clean taper and had no trouble in keeping the compound out of the bearing. I repeated the process on the other taper.
This is somewhat dangerous, but not necessarily more than many other repairs. I'm expecting some negative and alarmed responses to this message, but I believe it not to be unreasonable and it provided excellent results.

This
 
Royal Ryser said:
...This is somewhat dangerous, but not necessarily more than many other repairs. I'm expecting some negative and alarmed responses to this message, but I believe it not to be unreasonable and it provided excellent results.
Click to expand...

Here's your first alarmed response. I won't elaborate because you know the reasons. I will, however, offer an alternative that works very well without the effort you experienced:
Reinstall the axle nut in order to provide the pressure you otherwise had to exert to keep the mating surfaces in contact.
 
I can't see anything particularly risky, as long as you are prepared to let go of the wheel and let it spin should the taper suddenly "grab". Id be wary of fitting the nut, as on the one side, that may increase the tendency to want to "grab".

I haven't tried this, but I would have probably left the opposite side wheel on, and have it on the ground. With 3 wheels well clocked, what could possibly go wrong??

Mart.
 
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