Stripped Halfshaft...

Enbloc

Enbloc

Senior Member
As I was tightening the axle nut on my rear end it suddenly went soft due to stripped threads on the axle. :(

Apart from the obvious changing out the halfshaft (Fresh car, fresh rebuilt Columbia rear:() are there any other options open to me??

Thanks.
 
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WOW, That is too bad as it is a LOT of work to change an axle.

First I would try to "Restore" as much as the thread as possible. I have an old style thread chaser that is made like a big clamp that can be clamped over any remaining "Good" thread you may still have. You rotate it back an forth and slowly tighten it every so often. I have gotten bad threads back to the point where along with a new, good quality nut, have had success.

After you have done the best you can do to "restore" as much thread as possible, I would get a new GOOD OUALITY HARDENED NUT and face off the side that contacts the washer so as to get rid of the internal chamfer to expose a sharp theread right out to the edge.

I would then look for a little thinner but hardened washer. This may get you one more undamaged thread.

I would pull the drum and carefully see if you can face off the end of the hub just a little to expose a little more "good" Thread on the axle. Just be sure when everything is tightened up, you will not bottom the washer at the end of the threaded part of the axle and you are actually tightening the hub.

I would also remove the axle key and lap the taper in the hub to the axle taper. This will allow less torque to keep the hub from working loose on the axle. Be sure to fit a new key if necessary. You want the key to fit tight in both the axle and hub.

Then, clean everything real good with acetone, MEK or Lacquor Thinner and use High Strength Stud and Bearing Mount Lock Tight and put everything back together. I would only torque the axle nut to about 100 Ft Lbs, even though the book says a lot more. The lapped tapers and lock tight will keep the hub from working on the axle. Let everything set overnight.

Check several times after driving the car and see if everything stays tight.

This may sound like a lot to do but it is actually quite simple and MAY keep you from having to R&R the axle.

Good Luck and let us know how you make out.

Chris
 
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Check the nut for damaged threads, some or most of the damage may be in the nut also as CW sugested, lap the drum to the axle and it will work without as much torque on the nut and will also allow the drum to advance a little more on the axle. Keep us posted.
Don
 
A thread die will try to cut what existing material is left, while a thread chaser will just move the material around, building and cleaning the threads.

I also agree that lapping the hub may give you some more good threads to work with.

Enbloc said:
Why the use of a thread chaser over a thread die?

What is the thread on the halfshaft?
Click to expand...
 
Enbloc said:
Why the use of a thread chaser over a thread die?
Click to expand...

I have found with a thread chaser "restorer" that clamps on to the threads, you can use what good threads you may have left as a guide in restoring the damaged threads. This way, you remove the least amount of material from the damaged threads. This is especially good where the end of the axle is buggered from hammering on it. Sometimes, if the threads at the end are especially in bad shape, it is difficult with a die to get the new thread started in exactly the same place as the original. I feel the object is to try to save as much material as possible.

I also have dies for this thread and I am also a machinist. In over 50 years of working on this stuff, in this situation, I have had better success not using a die but a thread chaser. The tool I have is especially made for this purpose and works quite well.

Again, this is just my opinion

Chris
 
The thread on the end of the axle is special. the class of fit is very tight. it is not H3. Get the axle shaft changed! if you have a Columbia you probbly want to drive at highway speeds don`t trust your life to this damaged part! That nut is the only thing holding the wheel to the car.
 
Terry, OH is correct. Plus, you have just documented (for your insurance company and lawyers) that you'll be driving with a defective axle. Don't be foolish.
 
Go ahead and replace the axle. Dont put your safety and the safety of others at risk plus causing major damage to your car. Its a lot of work but it can be done by just removing the left side axle tube from the banjo and unbolting the ring gear from the carrier, make sure to use the same thickness gasket when it goes back.
 
If you do decide to replace the axle, be sure to have the replacement Magnifluxed. A lot of the used axles out there have cracks in them. You do not want to get everything back together only in the future to have an axle break and the rear wheel seperate while you are going down the road.

Any more, Magnifluxing axles is just part of a rear end rebuild.

A friend of mine with a shop found both axles had cracks in the last rear end he rebuilt for a customer. Good used axles are getting a bit hard to find.

If you have to buy one, be sure it is returnable if it is found to be cracked.

Again, Just my opinion.

Chris
 
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