Strange head gasket issue

Stingray70

Stingray70

Senior Member
I found this today. 1200 miles since rebuild, no leaks, car runs great. Snyder 5.5 head.

It looks like the core of the head gasket is squeezing out at the rear. The copper is still in place. What causes this? Thoughts or suggestions? I am not excited about taking a freshly rebuilt engine apart and definitely don't want this to happen again.

Thanks guys
35e25aa2df9bc8c4aeb1634915c15129.jpg
 
You need to check head and block for flatness. No choice but to remove head. Most people don’t like the black gaskets because they’re hard to remove. However I think they do a better job of sealing. IMO
 
I have heard of things like this. My engine shop said that some of the gaskets being sold are of such construction that they continually need retorquing. When he said that the first thing I thought about was what if a person has a high compression head...

I think you will find you need to pull that head off and get a felpro gasket.
 
Newly rebuilt engines need to be retorqued several or more times during break in and routinely thereafter. This should be done when the engine is cold, not warm. The head could be as mentioned out of flatness. Head flatness should be .005" or less. Your head gasket needs to be replaced. This should be done by the rebuilder at no charge.
 
I have seen a brand new head that was warped. Always check any head for level before installing.

Best Brand head gasket and copper spray always worked for me. Spray the head gasket with copper spray, let it sit a few minutes until tacky, spray again, and install.
 
It was a new head. I retorqued the head as directed at 50 miles, 100 miles and 500 miles. I ordered the Best gasket and will dig into it next week. Very curious what I find. Thanks for the suggestions guys
 
I use the Best gasket and copper spray 5.5 head so far no trouble torque it run it get it warm then retorque and drive it
 
Stingray70 said:
I found this today. 1200 miles since rebuild, no leaks, car runs great. Snyder 5.5 head.

It looks like the core of the head gasket is squeezing out at the rear. The copper is still in place. What causes this? Thoughts or suggestions? I am not excited about taking a freshly rebuilt engine apart and definitely don't want this to happen again.

Thanks guys
35e25aa2df9bc8c4aeb1634915c15129.jpg
Click to expand...

First issue is the cylinder head isn't flat out of the box when you purchased it. I have enclosed pictures of Snyder/TODD head painted blue and you can see why your gasket is pushed out.
To Date every one we've purchased for customers engines has been warped/distorted,poorly machined.
I would remove the cylinder head and make a visit to the local machine shop and have them resurface it along with what everyone else has mentioned
and you'll be in good shape.
www.jandm-machine.com
 

Attachments

  • IMG_7604.JPG
    IMG_7604.JPG
    59.8 KB · Views: 78
  • IMG_7607.JPG
    IMG_7607.JPG
    50.3 KB · Views: 72
  • IMG_7603.JPG
    IMG_7603.JPG
    59.1 KB · Views: 79
CT Jack said:
Newly rebuilt engines need to be retorqued several or more times during break in and routinely thereafter. This should be done when the engine is cold, not warm. The head could be as mentioned out of flatness. Head flatness should be .005" or less. Your head gasket needs to be replaced. This should be done by the rebuilder at no charge.
Click to expand...

Geez Jack, when I or other shops do a short block for the customer we don't even install the head or gasket. So what should we do in that scenario?? :D
 
I had time to remove the head today. It came apart easily and I cleaned the block & head with carb cleaner and a microfiber towel. There is a dark line on the block that bothers me a bit. It extends from the stud towards the water jacket. A ran a pick gently across it and don't feel anything. Anything to be concerned about?
32e3f1c02a6d2c3b3021ac14cdbc6222.jpg
de3cac17789c51090cbc985c2c42f91b.jpg
d56df40d5c7ba539455a81fe5548e25c.jpg
 
Hard to say from the picture but it does not look like a crack to me. Cracks typically propagate from the exhaust seat.
 
Check flatness of head. One way is to to just place in on the block and see if a 0.002 feeler gauge will fit in anywhere. If it does, then the head is not flat. (Or block is not flat.)

Use the Best graphite gasket with the copper spray gasket sealer. Follow the torque recommendations.
 
nkaminar said:
Check flatness of head. One way is to to just place in on the block and see if a 0.002 feeler gauge will fit in anywhere. If it does, then the head is not flat. (Or block is not flat.)

Use the Best graphite gasket with the copper spray gasket sealer. Follow the torque recommendations.
Click to expand...

The head and block both looked OK using a metal straight edge. I used the Best gasket but the website said NOT to use anything on it. Hopefully it will be ok.

Snyders says torque the head to 55, the builder says 60. What do you guys use?
 
I think the way Terry Burtz says to check this head and block would work good.


Oiled Plastigage should be used to verify cylinder head flatness before
wasting a head gasket and having to spend the time to clean the resulting
mess from a failed head gasket.
Place short pieces of oiled Plastigage around various locations on the
cylinder block, install the head and tighten the nuts to 20 lb-ft in
increments not exceeding 10 lb-ft as described in “Head Torque” below.
Remove the head and measure the Plastigage. If your head is not
within 0.002 inch of being flat, it will need to be resurfaced.
 
Stingray70 said:
The head and block both looked OK using a metal straight edge. I used the Best gasket but the website said NOT to use anything on it. Hopefully it will be ok.

Snyders says torque the head to 55, the builder says 60. What do you guys use?
Click to expand...

I'm sure you will get 139 different answers but I use the Best 509G gasket, dry, 55 psi. Re-torque, cold, after every heat cycle, 3 or 4 times until head is settled. head is Snyder 5.5.

I usually re-torque my head every 1000 miles while waiting for the oil to drain. Overkill for sure.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top