Stop Lights 1940 Ford

mike42

mike42

Well-known member
Morning….

I’ve replaced the stop light switch a couple times in order to get the stop lights to function. They went out again and it doesn’t appear to be the switch this time. I pulled off the two wires on master cylinder and joined them together with a little pigtail and the lights still don’t go on. I also noticed that when I turn on the headlights the tail lights don’t go on anymore but the headlights do. Does dash light switch control stop and taillights ?

Thx Mike
 
The stop lights are only controlled by the brake light switch and should come on even if the ignition is off.
The tail lights are controlled by the head light switch.
From your description it sounds like either both bulbs are burned our or the wiring to the tail lights got disconnected. Check for voltage at the rear bulb sockets and diagnose from there.
 
If you check the two wires at the stop light switch one is energized and the other not. It sounds as if the rear lights have lost their ground. If the license plate light is lit this will confirm this. The stop lights are not connected to the light switch.
 
Just went to the barn real quick and checked license plate light. Turned on the headlights and the license light “does not” come on. So does that mean I’m not grounded in the back or a bad wire connection somewhere ? I have to leave for the day but will check back later. Thx !
 
On the firewall on the driver side of the engine room there are a bunch of connectors between the dash wiring harness and the chassis wiring harness. The wire to tail lights and tag light are in that bunch. If you can still determine the wire colors, it is the all black wire. The bullet connectors between the harnesses can get pulled loose or corroded to lose connection. I would start there.
When you pull it apart, check to see if there is voltage on the wire coming from the dash. If no, the problem is a connection back under the dash, maybe on the light switch itself. If yes, clean all parts of the connector and wire ends and see if that fixes your problem.
If not, there are connectors at the left rear of the chassis where the wire splits to go to the tail lights and tag light.
 
Okay thx I’ll check into it today. What I can say is that when I connected the two wires off the master cylinder there was a little spark and the alligator clip got hot as hell so I think there’s juice going to the brake switch !
 
Mike, if the alligator clip got hot, I would suspect a short somewhere going toward the back of the car. I would inspect the sockets to make sure the hot lead for the bulb hasn't moved over if the wire is fine. Did you say you had tail lights but no brake lights? If the tial lights work the grounding is good. I mostly suspect the wire between the brake switch and the back has a short somewhere, maybe near the exhaust.
Let us know what you find.
 
mike42 said:
Okay thx I’ll check into it today. What I can say is that when I connected the two wires off the master cylinder there was a little spark and the alligator clip got hot as hell so I think there’s juice going to the brake switch !
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Of course, that little spark means that there is something consuming that current. In other words, something is operating, whether correctly or incorrectly. I'd suggest that the switch itself is possibly grounding internally. Take both wires off of the switch. Check EACH lug on the switch with your ohm meter for signs of being grounded. If one of them IS grounded, you've found your "sneak circuit".

Coop


.
 
V8COOPMAN said:
Of course, that little spark means that there is something consuming that current....I'd suggest that the switch itself is possibly grounding internally.
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He got that spark by connecting the two wires to each other. Brake switch was by-passed.

This one is a head-scratcher. I have no idea.
 
No license plate light appears there is no power. Maybe dirty contact on the circuit breaker. For temporary test purpose, jumper the circuit breaker and see if you have lights.
 
Terry said:
No license plate light appears there is no power. Maybe dirty contact on the circuit breaker. For temporary test purpose, jumper the circuit breaker and see if you have lights.
Click to expand...
Headlights are also protected by that circuit breaker, and his headlights do come on.
 
A simple test light goes so much further in looking for electrical issues than guessing or looking for sparks; just saying.
 
Thx guys. I had to go out of town for a couple days. A good buddy passed. I’ll be getting back into this now that I’m home. I’m not an electrical guy so this is new to me ! I’ll struggle through though. I sincerely appreciate all the comments and help and will look into everything mentioned and report back.

Thx Mike
 
mike42 said:
PS - does someone make a good wire harness that runs to the taillights ?

Thx
Click to expand...


Contact Michael Driskell at 3rd Gen Automotive, BELOW. He supplied ALL of the excellent harnesses for our '37 coupe.

Coop


3rd Gen Automotive - Contact

Michael Driskell (Ask for Michael on phone)

Third Gen Automotive
Phone: 844-327-5988
Url: thirdgenauto.com
2600 Old Nashville Hwy
McMinnville, TN 37110
 
Coop thx. He rebuilt the distributor last year I think.

I found one clothed wire that was bare at the rear end of frame. I also tried some 1054 bulbs and still nothing except the headlights come on. I’m thinking about running a couple new 14 gauge wires, as the ones I’ve got are spliced in several spots.

When my father in law died he left a bunch of items for checking electrical things, but I don’t have a clue on how to use.

Should both taillights be grounded ?

Thx…..Mike
 
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