stock fuel pump ???

I am going through the entire fuel system on my 51.. in the end I plan on running a electric pump.. but my question is when I do run the electric pump can I run it through the stock pump without any issues or will it damage pump.. or should I just bypass stock pump all together..

Oh and BTW happy New Year everyone
 
I am going through the entire fuel system on my 51.. in the end I plan on running a electric pump.. but my question is when I do run the electric pump can I run it through the stock pump without any issues or will it damage pump.. or should I just bypass stock pump all together..

Oh and BTW happy New Year everyone

If your '51 has a double pumper fuel pump get rid of it and install a single action pump and run only on the mechanical pump. Install a 'Facett' style pump (which will allow flow thru by the mech. pump) near the fuel tank on the frame rail. The electric pump should be wired with a seperate switch and is only used for pre-starting (after not running for extended periods). It can also be used in case of vapor-lock or other situations where the mech. pump does not function.
And yes, the mech. pump will allow flow-thru by the elect. pump with no ill effects.
This is an example of the type of Facett pump to use.
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=7550
 

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Rolling......you could also use an Airtex Pump and they come in 6 and 12 volts. They work very well also.

Mike
 
I checked the links on the Facet Pumps - they have a nice line of pumps. Does Facet make a 6-volt electric pump that can be used for priming the carburetor only (flow through design)? Or will a 12-volt pump work on 6 volts at a lower volume and/or pressure? Also the same questions on Airtex pumps.

Fritz
 
I checked the links on the Facet Pumps - they have a nice line of pumps. Does Facet make a 6-volt electric pump that can be used for priming the carburetor only (flow through design)? Or will a 12-volt pump work on 6 volts at a lower volume and/or pressure? Also the same questions on Airtex pumps.

Fritz

As per the Airtex electric pump....They work very well for priming and vapor lock situations. The Airtex E8902 is a 6 volt model with 2-4 lbs pressure which is best for our 6 volt flatheads. This style pump will allow fuel to flow thru when using the mechanical pump. I would also use a "momentary" style toggle switch for the electric pump. It stays in the "off" position when not using. Pat
 
If your '51 has a double pumper fuel pump get rid of it and install a single action pump and run only on the mechanical pump. Install a 'Facett' style pump (which will allow flow thru by the mech. pump) near the fuel tank on the frame rail. The electric pump should be wired with a seperate switch and is only used for pre-starting (after not running for extended periods). It can also be used in case of vapor-lock or other situations where the mech. pump does not funtion.
And yes, the mech. pump will allow flow-thru by the elect. pump with no ill effects.
This is an example of the type of Facett pump to use.
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=7550

why do you recommend getting rid of thr "double pumper"? just wondering.Phil
 
I have used facet, airtex, and Mr. gasket on various projects. My conclusions are: facet is efficient but noisy. airtex is OK but only lasted 6 months. Mr. gasket seems to be doing fine. I would recommend bypassing the mechanical pump and wiring to a toggled hot wire. That way you also have a anti theft device. Most of these pumps are available 6 or 12 volt. Put the pump as close to the tank as possible. They push gas better than they pull.
Good luck and HAPPY NEW YEAR everyone !
 
I am not a believer in the need of an electric pump. Never needed one in several hundred thousand miles in flatheads. However if that's what you want select the right pump and switch. I also don't like rubber hoses and clamp connections under the car where they are not visible. The switch should be a spring loaded type that will only operate the pump when your finger is operating it. An electric pump could put gas in the oil pan under some carb and pump conditions. Select the correct type of pump. The pump should have a lightly sprung check valve in it. This can be tested for by blowing with your mouth through the inlet or tank side of the pump, you should be able to blow through the pump. Then blow back through the outlet and it should block the air. This valve keeps fuel in the mechanical pump and fuel lines all the way to the carb. This makes starting after the car sits for weeks instant if the engine is tuned properly. Bob Shewman gadgiteer@aol.com makes flex hoses with a check valve built into the pump fitting with a life time Teflon inner liner that performs like the pump check valve. The pump selected should not put out over 4 lbs of pressure all though a little higher pressure is not critical if the pump is used for short cycle priming use only. Also the light contacts on the Ford ignition switches do not have much contact area and arc, this extra load will contribute to switch failure. I have posted several times how to cure the switch problem and increase the load capacity of the ignition switch. If any of you have taken a Ford switch apart you are aware of the arcing and wear on the flat surface. Along with the small contact surface on the ball contacts the plastic and brass flat surface was machined with a shaper or fly cutter which produced ridges on the brass and plastic. These ridges and the small ball shaped contacts make a very poor small contact area. G.M.
 
why do you recommend getting rid of thr "double pumper"? just wondering.Phil

Remember hearing or reading somewhere that during the period that Ford introduced the double pumper, there were some fuel pump cam lobe failures. Can't confirm that the pump was the cause of the failure but after comparing the amount of pressure needed to activate the double pumper as opposed to the single pumper, I decided to opt on the side of caution and swapped mine as I had no need for windshield wiper vacuum 'boost'.
 
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