Stock 1955, 292 distributor part number?

[Tom in TN]

Hey all, I'm talking with Pertronix about their Ignitor conversion for my 55 and they are asking for the part number of the distributor to be able to determine if they even have a kit for it.

I'm assuming the P/N is on the distributor's body, but I have no desire to yank it out just on the chance they have one.

So, I was wondering if one of you folks might have a parts catalog from 1955, that gives the distributor part number that was used on my engine?

The engine is a bone stock original 292 w/2bbl carb and it positively came with this car - I bought it as a one-owner. The car itself is a 1955 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan.

Thanks for any help!!

 

[Hoosier Hurricane]

The factory part number is B5A-12127-B The ID number on the distributor is FDJ-12127-C. John

 

[dmsfrr]

I'm talking with Pertronix about their Ignitor conversion for my 55 and they are asking for the part number of the distributor to be able to determine if they even have a kit for it.

The engine is a bone stock original 292 w/2bbl carb and it positively came with this car - I bought it as a one-owner. The car itself is a 1955 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan.
Thanks for any help!!

The folks at Pertronix are just making sure you get a kit that will actually fit, instead of the one you think you need.
Its been a long time since '55 and there are about 10 yrs worth of Ford distributors that could be in the engine, in addition to a few aftermarket ones.

This could be another reason why they asked for the distributor part number....
Unless the engine was a special order, the original V8 in a '55 Fairlane was a 272. So if it isn't 'original', the engine & distributor could be from almost anything.
You can confirm which engine the car has by looking for the block casting number, and decoding it from the chart at this link.
The first 3 letters of the block casting number are most likely ECG, followed by 6015
http://ford-y-block.com/Block%20identification.htm

It's actually fairly important to clean off the distributor and use a light & mirror, cell phone camera or whatever... to confirm which distributor is on the engine before you order any parts.
There was a change/upgrade in the oem distributors starting in '57 and the points conversion kits are not the same before and after '57 and they will not interchange.
The rotor is indexed by a flat side of the shaft in the '56 & earlier, and by a notch in the '57 & later.
.

 

[Tom in TN]

Boy did I screw up- yes, the engine IS a 272... it was original with the car...

 

[Oldmics]

And if its original it would be 6 volts.

Has it been upgraded to a 12 volt system.

Oldmics

 

[dmsfrr]

Yes... an original '55 Fairlane would have a 6 volt positive ground electrical system, unless it's been converted.
The 6v versus 12v wiring for the ignition system & coil is different - if it was done right.
If you have a better idea of what you're starting with, you'll have fewer 'surprises' along the way.

6v has one wire directly to the coil from the ignition key switch. (red w/ green stripe)
12v has two wires at the connection for the '+' side of the coil. One from the ignition switch 'run' position (red w/ green stripe) to a ballast resistor, then to the coil. The second wire comes from the starter solenoid 'I' terminal, to the coil '+' connection. It would be a good idea to have a "12v, external resistor" coil, although the 6v coil may(?) be ok too.

Is there a problem with the distributor that leads you to consider the conversion kit?

1) If the distributor is burning up points the ignition (re)wiring may not have been done correctly.
Is there a ballast resistor wired to the coil? It might be near the coil or on the firewall.
- example photos below -
Double check the polarity of the coil too. If the negative battery cable goes to the engine block,
the wire on the '-' minus terminal of the coil goes to the dist/points.
If the ignition wiring isn't set up correctly, a conversion kit won't work right either.

2) The timing advance on an oem '55 Load-o-matic dist is solely vacuum controlled thru a tube from the carburetor. If the tube leaks, the vacuum canister is bad or the points mounting plate is stuck the timing won't advance properly, if at all. Putting in a conversion kit won't fix this.

3) A 60+ yr old dist may have some worn out parts. The points have a ground wire that is often overlooked. If it's loose, corroded or frayed the ignition coil circuit won't function correctly.
If the point gap / dwell is unstable the main shaft bushings are worn out. A conversion kit won't fix them.


I'm not a fan of semi-expensive ignition conversion kits that just replace the function of the points.
Some folks say the recently made kits have more (off-shore, quality control) problems than before.
And they aren't serviceable if / when they act up. Points themselves aren't that big of a deal.
(I have an old 'Almost got t-boned by a loaded dump truck because my ignition kit failed' story)
.

 

[scicala]

The part numbers Hoosier Hurricane gave you are correct for a '55 272 with a two barrel carb.

Sal

 

[Tom in TN]

Hoosier-thank you, they found a kit that should work.

dmsfrr- I understand...but having used one of the Pertronix in a '64 Buick that I owned...I was pleased with the results.

Thank ya'll...

 

[Daves55Sedan]

Hate to tell ya this, but I had a pertronix kit in my '55 with 272 and original load-o-matic distributor. The pertronix unit lasted ONE MONTH. I tore it back out in great disappointment and put the old points and condenser back in. Still using points and condenser to this day. It's tride and true, much less expense, but requires periodic maintenance. The only benefit to having pertronix versus points is never having to file and adjust points or replace them. The standard Pertronix unit is really no better than a set of properly adjusted points from an ignition performance perspective.

 

[dmsfrr]

The performance advantage to a good electronic ignition conversion setup is at higher RPM's.
If you're running an engine on the other side of 5000 rpm a set of stock points will usually start to 'float' and you'll get poor ignition performance due to insufficient spring pressure to follow the distributor lobes at high rpm. Electronic ignition doesn't have this problem, but it isn't an issue with most older stock or nearly stock engines.