Still having trouble climbing

[Garander]

I recently bought a1930 Tudor , I noticed pretty quickly that she did not like even modest hills . With the help from a good friend from the local model A chapter I decided to do some work to it . New complete clutch , ring gear , manifolds , with intake bored out and B carburetor , new shift tower , new front neoprene seal over a two piece crank pulley . All new gaskets and Mitchell’s real deal transmission seals . I realize most of this work was not essential to my problem with hills , but I was hoping for improvement , especially with the Snyder 6.1 . The car runs rough , and is very sensitive to the slightest adjustment of the spark . Never able to find the “Knee” I set the timer with 2 clicks down with number 1 cylinder at TDC and the points just about to open .Is there any special way of timing for the high compression head . It still sucks going up hills , what am I missing .

 

[BButturff]

As we know, an engine needs several important things to make power. Fuel, air, ignition, proper timing and compression. I'd start with a compression check and, if any cylinders are low follow up with a cylinder leak down test.

 

[nkaminar]

The compression test and leak down test recommended above are a good start. Also check the valve timing. The exhaust valve should just be closing and the intake valve just opening when the piston is at the top with the crankshaft 360 degrees away from the power stroke.

Change spark plugs. Install a new high tension wire from the coil to the distributor. Install a new rotor and distributor cap. Check the gap between the rotor and distributor housing "contacts" which should be 0.020 to 0.025. Install a new condensor in the distributor. (A bad condensor is often the source of poor running.)

Try a known good carburetor. Try a known good coil.

Added: Do one change at a time so that you can determine what was the fault.

By the way, Welcome to the Barn.

 

[CT Jack]

I agree with all the previous suggestions recommending doing a compression test & adjusting the valves. You didn't mentioned if the valves were replaced or reseated. You also said "B carburetors". Does this mean you are using a dual carb setup? Maybe you should consider using a B distributor as it will provide the auto advance needed for climbing hills.

 

[Synchro909]

My experience with B distributors is far from pleasing but a good one would help. Failing that, I'm sure there will be an over the counter dizzy that will work. At 6:1 compression, it is easy to over advance the timing. Next time you are trying to climb a hill, try reducing the amount of advance you have set. It is it too advanced, the engine runs rough and in extreme cases, you will hear "pinging".
Is there a Model A club in your vicinity? If so, there will be someone who can help.

 

[Garander]

I agree with all the previous suggestions recommending doing a compression test & adjusting the valves. You didn't mentioned if the valves were replaced or reseated. You also said "B carburetors". Does this mean you are using a dual carb setup? Maybe you should consider using a B distributor as it will provide the auto advance needed for climbing hills.

Thanks for your reply . Should have been singular carburetor.

 

[Garander]

My experience with B distributors is far from pleasing but a good one would help. Failing that, I'm sure there will be an over the counter dizzy that will work. At 6:1 compression, it is easy to over advance the timing. Next time you are trying to climb a hill, try reducing the amount of advance you have set. It is it too advanced, the engine runs rough and in extreme cases, you will hear "pinging".
Is there a Model A club in your vicinity? If so, there will be someone who can help.

Thanks for your reply . I’ve kept my spark advance to a minimum to avoid the pinging after 9 o’clock on the stalk . On modest hills I pick up speed relative to conditions and stay in third , I start retarding the spark at the bottom and max out pretty quick with very little to no effect .

 

[Garander]

As we know, an engine needs several important things to make power. Fuel, air, ignition, proper timing and compression. I'd start with a compression check and, if any cylinders are low follow up with a cylinder leak down test.

Thanks for your reply . Should have mention we did a compression test early on before the head change and all cylinder were at 55 lbs

 

[Garander]

I agree with all the previous suggestions recommending doing a compression test & adjusting the valves. You didn't mentioned if the valves were replaced or reseated. You also said "B carburetors". Does this mean you are using a dual carb setup? Maybe you should consider using a B distributor as it will provide the auto advance needed for climbing hills.[/QUOTE

Thanks for your reply . Should have been singular carburetor. My bad

 

[Marshall V. Daut]

If the camshaft gear has been installed one tooth away from the index mark on the crankshaft gear, the engine will still have compression and will run smoothly, albeit lethargically. In the 1970's and 1980's, some imported crankshaft gears were improperly made, placing the index mark one tooth off from where it should have been. Guys lined up the timing gear indent with that mark and thought everything was o.k., only to discover that although the engine ran decently, it was sluggish and lacked power. The correct placement of the index mark is one tooth to the right of the keyway. If it's over the keyway, you've got one of those crappy crankshaft gears. No matter what performance upgrades you add to your engine or how many times you redo the valves, it will never develop the power designed into it until you have properly aligned the two gears. Unfortunately, you will have to remove the front timing gear cover to check this out.
Marshall