Still another turn signal question

flatheadfan

flatheadfan

Well-known member
I have wired an after-market turn signal set up in my '35 and '36. From the dash switch a full 6 volts go to the flasher. Coming out of the flasher is 4 volts. This low voltage causes the turn signal lights to be dim. If I bypass the flasher the bulbs are nice and bright. I realized that the addition of a couple of solenoids in series to the turn signal bulbs would help the situation. But, it seems a simpler solution would be a different type of flasher. I have tried several different 6 volt flashers with the same result. As for wiring, I am using 14 gauge wiring from the switch to the flasher to the bulbs.

I am open to ideas! :confused: Thanks.

Tom
 
Hi there, a little more information on the flasher unit type and what flasher globes are you using. The wattage or candle power of the two globes have to match the flasher unit wattage to work well. Solenoids will not operate on a flasher unit very well and are not required. You mention that from the dash switch a full 6 volts go to the flasher unit. What dash switch ?? From a battery source power should go to the flasher unit + plus terminal. from the L terminal out of the flasher unit to the indicator switch. Preferably the power source should not be ignition switch controlled to enable the flashers to be used as a roadside break down warning without the ignition being left on. Regards, Kevin.
 
I too had flasher issues (see my earlier thread) and solved my problems by dumping my NAPA flasher units and purchasing a flasher unit from Rhode Island Wiring. FWIW
 
Yep, the hot wire should be wired to the fuse panel, battery side (NOT the fused side) or similar source (always hot). Also, you may have been rounding things off, but the voltage should be more in the 6.5v range stright from the battery and closer to 7.5v with the engine running and a few RPMs.
 
Last edited:
Koates-

The flasher is a Tung-Sol 535, the bulbs are #209 (6 volt 15cp). I have tried different bulb sizes with the same dim results. The wire hook-up is correct. "X" power, "L" bulbs

The "switch" is a simple toggle switch. The power is direct battery.

Thanks for the help.

Tom
 
flathead, not sure why you would have a simple toggle switch in the power wire to your flasher unit, not needed normally. Your 6 volt 209 bulbs at 15 candle power may not be drawing enough power (watts) to operate that flasher unit. Bulbs should be 21 watts x two (front & rear) to enable the flasher unit to heat up and flash on and off. The only switch required in the circuit is the left-right indicator switch on the steering column. Make sure those bulbs are 6 volt and not 12 volt. Regards, Kevin.
 
Tom, you said there's only 4 volts coming out of the switch. This means the switch is the problem unless you are measuring the 4v at the bulbs in which case maybe going to 12 gauge wire would help. Also unless the toggle switch is part of the flasher unit, I also don't think it is needed. Terry
 
If I am reading it right, there is no column switch as we all know it but he is using something like a on/off/on toggle switch. Am I right???
 
Any way there shouldnt be a 2volt drop in the flasher.
Either contacts in the flasher has to high resistance or the coil is bad.
Have you tried a different unit ?
This is if the flasher is wired in the right way.
 
Thanks for the responses. A lot to think about. The toggle switch is my "lever." If I move it to the right the right signals come on. To the left the left signals come on.

I re-checked the wiring (X is power, L to the bulbs, P indicator bulb)

Should I be using thinner wire? I am using 14g would 18g be a better fit (creating more resistance) ?

Thanks for the help.

Tom
 

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Normally if the resistance is to low with a regular (non electronic) flasher system, the bulbs will flash too fast, like it does when a bulb blows. If the resistance is to high they flash slowly. I'd first try swapping in a known good flasher unit, see what's that does. And then check for good ground and power at the light sockets. Don't worry about the wire being "to big" it's job ain't to give resistance, it can never be to big.
Some of the metal can style flasher units available today have electronic guts in them, so watch this. Electronic ones are often polarity sensitive.
Martin.
 
Can you post a diagram of how you have this wired? I understood you to say that the input power was through the toggle switch. Now it sounds like you are saying the output to the lights are connected through the switch. At least I'm confused as to how this is wired!
 
JSeery-

The power to the flasher "X" post comes from a 6 volt power post on the firewall. The "L" post goes to the center post on a 3-way switch. If I switch the toggle to the left the left front and left rear lights receive power. If I move the toggle lever to the right, the power goes to the right front and right rear. This works as designed except the rear lights are much brighter than the fronts (same bulb size). The "P" post on the flasher has two wires, one goes to a buzzer and the the other goes to an under dash bulb that flashes when a turn signal is in use. Everything works except for the mysterious low voltage on the front.

I spent some time working on the wiring this morning before my hands got too cold. I am beginning to think I may have a wire connection that looks good but is sabotaging the system. I have two fuse boards set up behind the kick panels that have all the circuits fused on the car. Hopefully, this will help find the problem.

Tom
 
Sound right, sorry for the confusion on my part! There must be something increasing the resistance to the front bulbs.
 
To locate poor connections, place the leads from a voltmeter across each leg of the circuit. The reading is the amount of "voltage drop" in that link. Six volt systems have little to spare, and any measurable loss can reduce the component being powered. A common offender are the "bullet" connectors in old Fords. They were used during the original assembly, and serve no useful purpose otherwise. We replace them by soldering the wires and covering the joint with a bit of heat shrink tubing to retain the "look".
 
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