German guy
Senior Member
Anyone out there done anything to reduce the stiffness of the suspension...maybe removing one of the spring leafs? My car is a jaw breaker going over rail tracks or any significant bump.
Stiff suspension
- Thread starter German guy
- Start date
nkaminar
Well-known member
Does your car have the original shocks? If so, they are adjustable.
I had some aftermarket front shocks on my car that were frozen solid so that it was like having no springs at all. They got replaced.
Have the springs been greased? I have a special grease gun, made for Model T's, that is hammered between the leaves of the springs and grease is squirted in there. That helped a lot with my car. It makes a mess as the grease gets squeezed out but i just wipe that up.
I had some aftermarket front shocks on my car that were frozen solid so that it was like having no springs at all. They got replaced.
Have the springs been greased? I have a special grease gun, made for Model T's, that is hammered between the leaves of the springs and grease is squirted in there. That helped a lot with my car. It makes a mess as the grease gets squeezed out but i just wipe that up.
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Y-Blockhead
Well-known member
I use a Lubroclamp similar to the one in the picture to lube my leaf springs. You see thing on EBay often. If your springs are rusty, I would clean them first as others have suggested.
After lubing, I install Gaiters (spring covers) like these from Snyder's https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/searchm.htm?type=merged&sterm=&searcht=a-5310-co
After lubing, I install Gaiters (spring covers) like these from Snyder's https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/searchm.htm?type=merged&sterm=&searcht=a-5310-co
nkaminar
Well-known member
Here is my spring greaser. You hammer it in and then turn the handle that is filled with grease. Several people have commented that the grease on the outside attracts dirt. That is true but I just wipe the grease that squeezes out off.
The Denso wrap is new to me but I have seen leather wraps that do the same thing. Ford sold a wrap back when the Model A was new and they used oil inside the wrap to keep the springs lubricated. The leather wraps, besides being practical, add some class to high value cars.
The Denso wrap is new to me but I have seen leather wraps that do the same thing. Ford sold a wrap back when the Model A was new and they used oil inside the wrap to keep the springs lubricated. The leather wraps, besides being practical, add some class to high value cars.
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Joe K
Well-known member
My experience with spring is - it varies.
For a while a go-to for parts for the Model A was JC Whitney. Starting out with my truck (avatar) I had trouble with the left front wheel getting clobbered by the underside of the fender support - which I then put to "worn out spring."
To solve the issue I placed my order for a replacement spring with the then JC Whitney, which immediately on arrival I saw wasn't precisely the spring the car came with.
For instance, the leaves were all cut off "square." (Model A are "tapered" at the end of the leaves. )
And the spring seemed considerably "stiffer" than even my worn out original. The JC Whitney spring was 8 leaves, those leaves considerably "thicker" than the original Ford.
As in - the JC Whitney spring was a recycled trailer spring which just happened to fit the eye to eye dimension of the Model A front shackles.
Eventually the fender/tire issue was traced back to a bent frame - which was straightened almost "in place" with a strongback. Meanwhile, I have looked for a "new" spring.
Travis Cook (Connecticut) USED to be the place to go for a correct front spring. Alas Travis decided to hang up his track shoes with Covid and get out of the business.
There are other producers of front springs. I have mentioned in other threads having bought a new front spring from Macs, then breaking it down and carefully measuring each leaf and checking it against Brent in Tenn front spring drawing - which exists at https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2143838&postcount=6 The MACs spring seems consistent with what was originally used on the Model A - including pre-load (breaking the spring down one has to keep in mind pre-load COULD be a reason to take care removing the center bolt.)
Many would rather go with a used but good condition front spring. Looking at Brent's drawing one can see that the "pre-loading" of each leaf is small, and becomes smaller or non-existent in time and use. It is possible to cold-bend to restore the pre-load on a used or flattened spring.
Anyway, for now I've gone with MACS and while the spring seems satisfactory (and now lubricated/repainted in reassembly) only when I get the body reassembled will I know for sure.
Joe K
For a while a go-to for parts for the Model A was JC Whitney. Starting out with my truck (avatar) I had trouble with the left front wheel getting clobbered by the underside of the fender support - which I then put to "worn out spring."
To solve the issue I placed my order for a replacement spring with the then JC Whitney, which immediately on arrival I saw wasn't precisely the spring the car came with.
For instance, the leaves were all cut off "square." (Model A are "tapered" at the end of the leaves. )
And the spring seemed considerably "stiffer" than even my worn out original. The JC Whitney spring was 8 leaves, those leaves considerably "thicker" than the original Ford.
As in - the JC Whitney spring was a recycled trailer spring which just happened to fit the eye to eye dimension of the Model A front shackles.
Eventually the fender/tire issue was traced back to a bent frame - which was straightened almost "in place" with a strongback. Meanwhile, I have looked for a "new" spring.
Travis Cook (Connecticut) USED to be the place to go for a correct front spring. Alas Travis decided to hang up his track shoes with Covid and get out of the business.
There are other producers of front springs. I have mentioned in other threads having bought a new front spring from Macs, then breaking it down and carefully measuring each leaf and checking it against Brent in Tenn front spring drawing - which exists at https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2143838&postcount=6 The MACs spring seems consistent with what was originally used on the Model A - including pre-load (breaking the spring down one has to keep in mind pre-load COULD be a reason to take care removing the center bolt.)
Many would rather go with a used but good condition front spring. Looking at Brent's drawing one can see that the "pre-loading" of each leaf is small, and becomes smaller or non-existent in time and use. It is possible to cold-bend to restore the pre-load on a used or flattened spring.
Anyway, for now I've gone with MACS and while the spring seems satisfactory (and now lubricated/repainted in reassembly) only when I get the body reassembled will I know for sure.
Joe K
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I use the spring covers as mentioned by Blockhead in post #4.
J Franklin
Well-known member
Kurt in NJ
Well-known member
Take an oil can fill with automatic transmission fluid and squirt the springs starting up top near the crossmember,go for a ride and do it again.
Also have your lubricated the oil hole in the hand crank bearing ?
Then you will find out if the shocks work.
Also have your lubricated the oil hole in the hand crank bearing ?
Then you will find out if the shocks work.
German guy
Senior Member
WoW! Lots of great advice. Thanks!
Charlie Stephens
Well-known member
I run springs designed for a roadster and teflon strips from Posies (I assume they still make them) in my 'Model A RDPU.
Charlie Stephens
Charlie Stephens
Bob Bidonde
Well-known member
I use reproduction Model "A" accessory spring covers. They make a significant difference in ride quality. The lubricant I use in the felt reservoirs is gear oil or used motor oil.
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Y-Blockhead
Well-known member
Bob, If you feed the spring clip bolt thru the slot cut in the side of the cover, as it states in the instructions, they fit much better and you will be able to close up the cover better at the bottom.
instructions from Snyder's; https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/content/Snyders/Product_PDFs/A-5310-CO.pdf
instructions from Snyder's; https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/content/Snyders/Product_PDFs/A-5310-CO.pdf
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Y-Blockhead
Well-known member
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updraught
Well-known member
Disconnect the shocks, if fitted.
It should ride OK on the flat and bounce when going over train tracks.
If it is not doing this, work on the springs to remove resistance like getting rid of rust between the leaves and greasing.
Once the springs are working right, add the shocks to control bounce. The main job of shocks is to control the letting go of the spring (rebound).
If the ride gets hard when you add the shocks then the (compression) of the shocks is too hard.
It should ride OK on the flat and bounce when going over train tracks.
If it is not doing this, work on the springs to remove resistance like getting rid of rust between the leaves and greasing.
Once the springs are working right, add the shocks to control bounce. The main job of shocks is to control the letting go of the spring (rebound).
If the ride gets hard when you add the shocks then the (compression) of the shocks is too hard.
Bob Bidonde
Well-known member
Dropping the tire pressure a few psig also improves the ride.