30 Closed Cab PU
Well-known member
Call Berts and see if they have a known good used one. The repops usually are problematic and have to be reworked. I believe there is info on FB that explains/shows how to correct the issue with the repops.
Sticking Starter Switch
- Thread starter Dirtrack49
- Start date
chrs1961815
Well-known member
I have restored ones and a lot of original parts for them so if you need something send me a PM.
Dirtrack49
Senior Member
Took the starter switch apart and found that the contacts have been welding together.
Do I clean up the weld marks and the rod plunger and housing, put it back together and hope for the best?
The little insulator that looks like a tee, is that normal?
When I removed the switch from the starter, I found no base gasket/insulator. I assume that this isolates with the provided gaskets in the pictures below?
This must be a repro, no markings on it whatsoever.
Tom L.
Do I clean up the weld marks and the rod plunger and housing, put it back together and hope for the best?
The little insulator that looks like a tee, is that normal?
When I removed the switch from the starter, I found no base gasket/insulator. I assume that this isolates with the provided gaskets in the pictures below?
This must be a repro, no markings on it whatsoever.
Tom L.
Attachments
1955cj5
Well-known member
That little plastic insulator insulates the plunger from the flexible copper contact. I don't know what the originals used...mine was missing
It is necessary...there is one in the middle picture I posted in an earlier post. (post #12)
Make sure the metal plunger moves freely in the housing, I had to slightly enlarge the hole.
Your switch doesn't look damaged....clean it up and give it a try......
It is necessary...there is one in the middle picture I posted in an earlier post. (post #12)
Make sure the metal plunger moves freely in the housing, I had to slightly enlarge the hole.
Your switch doesn't look damaged....clean it up and give it a try......
Dirtrack49
Senior Member
Update on starter switch and no run issue.
I took apart the starter switch and found that it had some weld marks on the copper arm and the button on the starter motor. Filed the pitted area clean. Cleaned up the switch housing where the plunger goes through. Now it seems to work well again.
My car engine shutting off with no hesitation ended up being the wire from the lower plate intermittently touching the upper points plate. This was caused by a soldering burr that I simply removed. What evidently would happen, is when I would move the spark control, the upper plate would sometimes interfere with the soldering burr and would ground the ignition at the points.
Thanks everyone for all of your help.
Lesson learned. Always follow a basic plan when diagnosing the fuel and ignition systems.
Tom L.
I took apart the starter switch and found that it had some weld marks on the copper arm and the button on the starter motor. Filed the pitted area clean. Cleaned up the switch housing where the plunger goes through. Now it seems to work well again.
My car engine shutting off with no hesitation ended up being the wire from the lower plate intermittently touching the upper points plate. This was caused by a soldering burr that I simply removed. What evidently would happen, is when I would move the spark control, the upper plate would sometimes interfere with the soldering burr and would ground the ignition at the points.
Thanks everyone for all of your help.
Lesson learned. Always follow a basic plan when diagnosing the fuel and ignition systems.
Tom L.
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30 Closed Cab PU
Well-known member
I was guilty of a self imposed short on the pigtail wire. Had the distributor plates out and reassembled things incorrectly. When bending the connection lug to capture the nut, did not have the lug in the correct position. Same issue, ran until I advanced the spark lever and the lug shorted.