ford28roadster
Member
I'm putting on step plates on running boards on a 28 roadster. can someone tell me exact location they are supposed to go on thanks john
step plates 28 roadster
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DougVieyra
Well-known member
There is no exact location. These were after-market accessory items and were installed by the buyer/owner. The owner would typically step into and out of the car several times and notice where his foot landed on the running board. He would then install the step plate where it would do most good in saving the running board rubber. The same thing would be repeated on the passenger side, with the passenger doing the 'assessing' of where to place the step plate.
ford28roadster
Member
THANKS just making sure there was no exact location
BILL WILLIAMSON
Well-known member
Carl,
I know a guy that has NEW running boards & won't STEP on them!!! Don't know HOW he gets in, I stay FAR-FAR-FAR -FAR away from him & his CAR. If I ever get that KRAZY, will you GUYS promise to PUT ME AWAY PERMANENTLY & PAINLESSLY?
Bill Sane
Big hammer
Well-known member
I thought we did that a while back, very glade to having back ;-)
DougVieyra
Well-known member
On top of the rubber.
Karl Wescott
Well-known member
I dont think this group should go that far, a rusted out Yugo and a lifetime membership in their restoration society should keep you out of trouble though.
Tom Wesenberg
Well-known member
I would consider mounting the step plates with some adhesive or double sided strong tape, just in case you have a good original and decide you don't really want the plates.
I kept my step plates in the house for 2 or 3 years, then drilled holes to mount them on my very original 1929 Chevy. As soon as I drilled the holes, I knew I made a mistake in doing that.
I kept my step plates in the house for 2 or 3 years, then drilled holes to mount them on my very original 1929 Chevy. As soon as I drilled the holes, I knew I made a mistake in doing that.
DougVieyra
Well-known member
Tom Wesenberg, Post #12:
"I would consider mounting the step plates with some adhesive or double sided strong tape, just in case you have a good original and decide you don't really want the plates."
"I kept my step plates in the house for 2 or 3 years, then drilled holes to mount them on my very original 1929 Chevy. As soon as I drilled the holes, I knew I made a mistake in doing that."
________________________________
On my '31 Dlx Coupe, a 'modern' car restored 15 years ago, made for today's driving, with no special regard for 'authentic' or 'Blue Ribbon' judging, I easily installed a pair of Step-Plates on the running boards, with no great concern about how it will 'effect' the car.
Conversely, on my '28 Phaeton, a car that I have had for over 50 years, and restored as a 'Fine Point', 'Factory Original' car, in 1979, I have not yet summoned up enough courage to drill holes in the running boards. So the pair of 1928 vintage N.O.S. Step-Plates still sit in my 'Step-Plate' collection.
So I hear Tom's words very loudly in my mind, and echo his sentiments.
"I would consider mounting the step plates with some adhesive or double sided strong tape, just in case you have a good original and decide you don't really want the plates."
"I kept my step plates in the house for 2 or 3 years, then drilled holes to mount them on my very original 1929 Chevy. As soon as I drilled the holes, I knew I made a mistake in doing that."
________________________________
On my '31 Dlx Coupe, a 'modern' car restored 15 years ago, made for today's driving, with no special regard for 'authentic' or 'Blue Ribbon' judging, I easily installed a pair of Step-Plates on the running boards, with no great concern about how it will 'effect' the car.
Conversely, on my '28 Phaeton, a car that I have had for over 50 years, and restored as a 'Fine Point', 'Factory Original' car, in 1979, I have not yet summoned up enough courage to drill holes in the running boards. So the pair of 1928 vintage N.O.S. Step-Plates still sit in my 'Step-Plate' collection.
So I hear Tom's words very loudly in my mind, and echo his sentiments.
29Cabriolet
Senior Member
Funny. There's no way I can get in the car by stepping on the running board! Even with the top down, standing on the running board I cannot get my legs through the door into the car and past the steering wheel. I'm average height/weight (6' 215). The only way that works is by putting my right foot in first towards the gas pedal leaving my left foot on the ground. Then sliding onto the seat and pulling my left leg in.
CarlG
Well-known member
Now that you have that all figured out, go around to the other side and try getting into the passenger seat. That's a whole new ball game!
Bob-A
Well-known member
I've also got a very original '29 Chevrolet. I looked years for the "correct"
step plates for it. The ones I found, acquired and mounted on the car look
great.
The running boards being original were/are pretty ratty. I painted a coat of top black on them than mounted the plates. Reproduction Chevy running boards are not cheap: $300 for just the boards & $500 for the mats! The step plates are not the usual made up ones like you see
on eBay or at the few antique Chevy parts vendors. They are made of thick aluminum, underneath they curve down to match the outer edge curve of the boards. And have a Chevy "Bowtie & Shield" that matches the Chevy radiator emblem that was only used from '29 to '31.
The plates as far as I know are not original from the late 20's to early 30's. But are most likely from the late 60's to 70's. If the car's boards
were in good shape I would have never mounted them.
Bob-A
step plates for it. The ones I found, acquired and mounted on the car look
great.
The running boards being original were/are pretty ratty. I painted a coat of top black on them than mounted the plates. Reproduction Chevy running boards are not cheap: $300 for just the boards & $500 for the mats! The step plates are not the usual made up ones like you seeon eBay or at the few antique Chevy parts vendors. They are made of thick aluminum, underneath they curve down to match the outer edge curve of the boards. And have a Chevy "Bowtie & Shield" that matches the Chevy radiator emblem that was only used from '29 to '31.
The plates as far as I know are not original from the late 20's to early 30's. But are most likely from the late 60's to 70's. If the car's boards
were in good shape I would have never mounted them.
Bob-A
pooch
Well-known member
I had a 2 gallon embossed shell motor spirit tin that I agonized over drilling holes to mount on my 28 pickup.
I did it in the end and am happy now.
Look at the amount of heater holes chopped into firewalls, I wonder if the mentality of the generation gone was to freeze for years, so the next owner would have a hole-less firewall.
I liken this to the 50/s when the dealers pushed those heavy shiny plastic seat covers, that tightly covered the whole seat and never came off.
The poor old dude suffered from a sweaty arse and slid all over the place for his lifetime of ownership, and then when dead, or the car was sold, the (usually) far younger buyer eagerly removed the cover to find a pristine seat , and said to himself "thanks Pop."
I did it in the end and am happy now.
Look at the amount of heater holes chopped into firewalls, I wonder if the mentality of the generation gone was to freeze for years, so the next owner would have a hole-less firewall.
I liken this to the 50/s when the dealers pushed those heavy shiny plastic seat covers, that tightly covered the whole seat and never came off.
The poor old dude suffered from a sweaty arse and slid all over the place for his lifetime of ownership, and then when dead, or the car was sold, the (usually) far younger buyer eagerly removed the cover to find a pristine seat , and said to himself "thanks Pop."
CarlG
Well-known member
Use to see ads all over: "Seat Covers - $19.95 Installed in 30 minutes or less"