Steering worm gear install

You need to have or find someone who has a special jig to hold the shaft firm just below the area where the gear is pressed on. KRW had such a jig, of course, but they aren't just everywhere. My local Model A genius fabricated one of his own, but it has to be (and his is) super heavy duty and machined just right. If you are located near Portland, OR, let me know and I can direct you to him.
 
I have a jig I made that clamps the shaft just below the gear and holds it tight for the last 1/2" of pressing. It also doubles to press the gear off.
 
I tap the end of the shaft with a 5/8 x 18 tap and then use a piece of grade 8 all thread with three washers and a nut. I tap all the way in and run the all thread in about 1 to 11/2 inches. I line up the worm, put three washers against it and then the nut. A little oil on the washers helps. I secure the shaft in a vice and then tighten the nut pulling the worm onto the shaft. There is plenty of room for the light switch rod.
 
Put the worm gear in the oven at about 300 degrees for 15 -20 minutes. It will expand and should slide on the sterring shaft. This also works with the gear on the front of the cranskshaft.
 
I'd be a bit worried tapping into the "shaft" to pull the worm on as this would weaken the shaft allowing it to shrink slightly when the worm slides on and the interference fit would not be so tight, IMO.
robert1936
 
I tap the end of the shaft with a 5/8 x 18 tap and then use a piece of grade 8 all thread with three washers and a nut. I tap all the way in and run the all thread in about 1 to 11/2 inches. I line up the worm, put three washers against it and then the nut. A little oil on the washers helps. I secure the shaft in a vice and then tighten the nut pulling the worm onto the shaft. There is plenty of room for the light switch rod.
OK! I am game to try your way. How many times have you done this way to press on a worm gear. I tried the heat it up way and now I have a worm gear stuck about half way on the shaft. And trying to figure out a way to get it off. Does the worm gear go on flush with the end of the shaft or does the shaft stick out a little.:confused:
 
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Like ajanke i have done several this way , A rattle gun works well , no problem with weakening the shaft by threading it , should finish flush. This method is recommended in the videos put out by Diablo Model A club , Of which our club purchased the lot to view on tec nights .
 
Do you have a picture of the jig? I am interested in this for sure. Thanks
Made from 1 piece of steel with all holes bored before it was cut into 2 pieces. Bolts are 1/2". Works great.
 

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James, that's a nice tool. Do I see some residue of valve-grinding compound applied as insurance against slipping?

Joe
 
James, that's a nice tool. Do I see some residue of valve-grinding compound applied as insurance against slipping?

Joe
Actually Joe, that is dirt off of the last shaft I did. If this slips it can't be put on and valve grinding compound won't help much. When I did this I drilled the hole for the shaft and honed it to a tight fit and when it was cut the kerf of the saw made it tight enough to not crimp the shaft but tight enough to keep it from slipping. Never had any problem so far.
 
Have you tried putting the shaft in the freezer overnite .

Works for me on a lot of things that need pressed .






So they said ,,,,,Pops
 
Have you tried putting the shaft in the freezer overnite .

Works for me on a lot of things that need pressed .






So they said ,,,,,Pops
I have tried freezing the shaft overnight and heating the worm to 450 and it still won't go on properly. This is the only way I have ever been able to install a worm right.
 
Like ajanke i have done several this way , A rattle gun works well , no problem with weakening the shaft by threading it , should finish flush. This method is recommended in the videos put out by Diablo Model A club , Of which our club purchased the lot to view on tec nights .

Thanks Quickchange
 
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