Steering Wobble Troubleshooting

mgambuzza

mgambuzza

Senior Member
Recently I bought a floor jack with stands as I wanted to look at an issue experienced while driving. I would experience intermittent drift, and would have to move the steering wheel between 2-4" to move the wheels to correct. I'm thinking I'm going to have to do the multi step steering adjustment. I took a video of the issue from three angles with the front end lifted - the front, the drivers side assembly, and where the steering attaches to the rod from the steering box. Before I dove into this, I wanted to get the experienced advice from this crew.



I tried wobbling the wheels N-S to check for the wheel bearings and although there may be something slight, there wasn't the wobble I would expect from a worn kingpin.

Look forward to the input - thanks!


https://youtu.be/GS2iyptQR-4
 
I just went through this 2 weeks ago on my (new to me) '30 coupe. I did the 3 step adjustment and removed a small amount of play in the steering box. I checked other steering components one by one and found the ball on my pitman arm to be oval instead of round. Replaced the pitman arm. Next I checked my toe in. The car had 1/16" of toe OUT. I adjusted it to 1/16" toe IN. Night and day difference in how the car drives. After doing that, I replaced my tires with new Goodyears and it made another huge improvement. I can go down these country roads at 45mph and steer with 2 fingers now.

Just be methodical and check every part one at a time. It isnt difficult. The whole process took me half a day going slowly.
 
You video cuts out at an important part, a good view of a well lit pitman arm as you wobble the steering. You want to ascertain how much play there is in the sector shaft bushings. Does the square end of the sector shaft at the top of the pitman move fore and aft at all? Look also when the car is off the jacks on the ground. Have someone turn the wheel back and forth and watch that square shaft end.

Next is studying up on how the 4 adjustments work for the steering box. 3 can be done with the box on the car, although the mesh adjustment will take some creative tool selection to get access.

There are numerous books that cover this, but the best imho is the DVD that Bratton's has. Nothing better than video seeing somebody tweaking, what the tweak does, and how much tweak to give it. The books are better for parts diagrams and assembly. The DVD shows the box being adjusted on the bench, but that's easily translated to on the car, with less elbow room.
 
If it was my car I would start by making sure it was not the pitman arm. Next, I would remove the steering box and take it completely apart, inspecting all the parts for excessive wear. I would replace any parts that were rejected. I would re assembly the box with the end plate that has the tube welded to it to eliminate leaks. Then follow the recommended adjustment and re install the box. Next I would check the geometry of the front end starting with the toe-in and then the caster. I have fought warn out boxes and it is not worth it. They never adjust correctly. Of course, you may find that all the parts are OK, and you can just re assemble the box.
 
It appears that someone installed a steering damper at some time to "cure" the front end wobble?? Nothing wrong with a steering damper, just don't install it to hide a problem.

And as mentioned previously, check the sector bushing. It looks like it is moving in an odd way.

Best to check all joints to ensure all is in the best shape. Just MHO.
 
MMM Video indicates the steering arm ball is worn as well as other things seen in the vid. I struggled with this for several years replacing everything imaginable. In the end in my case it was the front spring shackle perch nuts were loose. The axle was "walking". Tightened those up and good to go.
 
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Check the ball on the wishbone too. Too loose or out of round can adversely affect your steering geometry.
 
That steering sector shaft has a lot of play.
I would recommend a rebuild of the steering box.
I would also remove the steering damper and begin eliminating sources of play in the front end.
 
After replacing my tires, started on the wobble project. Began by removing the drag link and I think that's the first part along with the associated pieces I'll be replacing- pics below. Next I went through the three part steering adjustment and even with the sector adjustment tight-tight, the pitman was moving. I then found that that bolt was loose. Tightened the pitman to the sector shaft and I'm in a holding pattern until parts arrive this week. This is a good learning experience, and couldn't do it without members on this forum - thank you! Seeing how some of these pieces are worn/broken after 90 years of use still gives me an appreciation of how a decent, quality product can still be enjoyed after all these year. Can't wait to get more of these items sorted out so I can start enjoying in the spring/summer/fall in Upstate NY.
 

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Looks like your are getting to the bottom of it. When you get the inserts fixed be sure to check you toe. My car was drifting and the tow adjustment made a big difference for me.

Ron
 
The problem can be looseness anywhere from the steering box adjustment all the way thru to the wheel bearings and anything in between.
When everything is set as it should be then the last thing to do is set the toe-in to 1/32"-1/16".
 
My advice has always been the same.

Drop the front end and completely disassemble. Now you can check everything. It sounds like a big job, but it isn’t. Your going to do it anyway. One piece at a time.

Once done right. It most likely will be done forever. Another thing off the check list.
 
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My problem was the PO did not sufficiently tighten the Pittman arm to the sector shaft after a front end rebuild. Watching the sector shaft end while rocking the steering wheel clearly showed the square fitting rotating in the arm fitting. After tightening the the arm bolt all slop was removed between the arm and sector shaft and steering dramatically improved.
 
My car has some left to right moving around but the free play at the steering wheel is only 5/8 to 3/4 in. It is not in the box. I have also adjusted the toe-in to specs. It is the bias ply tires following irregularities in the pavement. I have also improved the steering somewhat by putting the air pressure in the left front tire at 35 psi and the right front tire at 30 psi. This slight drag on the right side keeps things from floating left and right. Ed
 
Ed in Maine said:
My car has some left to right moving around but the free play at the steering wheel is only 5/8 to 3/4 in. It is not in the box. I have also adjusted the toe-in to specs. It is the bias ply tires following irregularities in the pavement. I have also improved the steering somewhat by putting the air pressure in the left front tire at 35 psi and the right front tire at 30 psi. This slight drag on the right side keeps things from floating left and right. Ed
Click to expand...

The 35psi in the LFT and 30 in RFT is something I have not heard but it makes sense to me. My steering improved a lot after setting the toe to +1/16 but I am going to try the 30 35 psi trick.

Ron
 
Grab the end of the pitman arm, from the side of the car, and pull it and push it back and forth. If it moves, you need new bushings for your sector shaft.
 
Picture this.

You bring you three year old Ford Escape into the dealer with a front end problem. When you pick the car up later in the day. The service adviser tells you that they have fixed the problem. You now just have to keep your front tires at different tire pressure. Problem solved?

Shade tree mechanics. Think about it.
 
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