Steering Wheel Switch Repair

R

Ross6860

Senior Member
The switch on the steering wheel turns with the wheel, turning things on and off as I go:rolleyes:

Any disassemby repair guides out there. It's a '36

In general, is the Shop Manual actually any good for these vehicles? Any other good books on the '35/'36 out there?

I have a set of official Ford shop manuals for my '74, and I find them only somewhat helpful. I guess worth the $30 or $50 I paid for them.

I know I'm asking a lot of questions. I'm gleaning knowledge from the vast amount of experience on here.

I have lots of mechanical experience, particularly engine building, but much of it is just good general knowledge when it comes to these old beasties, know I have to learn all the little tricks and secrets of these things.

Thanks in advance, again.
 
The bail type spring that holds the wiring harness to the bottom of the steering shaft below the steering gear box has been bent out of it's original arch. You might be able to re-bend this spring clip to pull the harness up tighter. I had to replace mine on my 36.
 
Ross, your horn/light rod is bent. It'll have to be removed to straighten it. The rod is attached to the horn button, and consists of a hollow tube containing the horn grounding wire. The job will be much easier if you have an open car or a coupe with a roll down rear window, as the rod will otherwise hit the headliner and must be bent to remove it, possibly how yours got bent in the first place.

If a closed car, you must drop the steering box partially, and the steering tube support at the dashboard, in order to tilt the assembly toward an open drivers door.

Open or closed, either way, remove the wire bale at the bottom of the steering tube that holds the electric switch cap in place. Drop the cap, then wash your hands before proceeding. With clean hands, disconnect the wire eminating from the bottom of the tube, then remove the spring loaded clip at the bottom of the tube. The tube is now free to pull up from the top.

On a good flat workbench, use a rubber mallet to straighten the tube and the alignment with the horn button.

As for books, I'd start with the "1935-'36 Ford Book" published by the EFV8CA, available at many suppliers, as well as from the Club itself. This book won't help much with mechanical repairs, but is invaluable in the correct restoration of the car: NOT how to do it, but rather, how it rolled off the assembly line.

Next, get hold of a "MoToRs Repair Manual" from no later than the 1951 issue, as the older information (back to 1935) gets sketchy in the later editions.

The "Ford V8 Service Bulletins" will supplement the MoToRs book, and will show the repair tasks from a slightly different perspective, giving the reader a better understanding of the job. This book, for your year 1936, should be the "1938-1940 Complete INCLUDING ALL 1932-37 REVISIONS". This edition is the one to get, it's put together in chapters rather than piecemeal as the earlier editions are.

You'll need a copy of Chassis Parts And Accessories. You'll hear that the "Green Bible" edition, 1928-1947 is the one to get, but try for as close to your year car as possible, as the later editions will show replacement parts rather than the original equipment. The exploded line drawings alone in these books are worth the price.


The last book you'll need is the "Hardware And Trimming Supplies 1928-1938". This is available in reprint, and is invaluable in identifying every nut and bolt and bolt-on body part from door handles to upholstery hardware, from window regulators to seat adjusters. Everything here is identified with part number, the car model it goes on, and yes, great line drawings of everything.
 
I had a situation when everytime I turned the steering wheel to make a left hand turn, the horn would sound. Of all the dumb things, the steering wheel nut hadn't been tightened.
 
Fe26 said:
I had a situation when everytime I turned the steering wheel to make a left hand turn, the horn would sound. Of all the dumb things, the steering wheel nut hadn't been tightened.
Click to expand...

I saw that movie! I think it was Stan Laurel with the unattached steering wheel, wasn't it? :D
 
ford38v8 said:
Ross, your horn/light rod is bent. It'll have to be removed to straighten it. The rod is attached to the horn button, and consists of a hollow tube containing the horn grounding wire. The job will be much easier if you have an open car or a coupe with a roll down rear window, as the rod will otherwise hit the headliner and must be bent to remove it, possibly how yours got bent in the first place.

If a closed car, you must drop the steering box partially, and the steering tube support at the dashboard, in order to tilt the assembly toward an open drivers door.

Open or closed, either way, remove the wire bale at the bottom of the steering tube that holds the electric switch cap in place. Drop the cap, then wash your hands before proceeding. With clean hands, disconnect the wire eminating from the bottom of the tube, then remove the spring loaded clip at the bottom of the tube. The tube is now free to pull up from the top.

On a good flat workbench, use a rubber mallet to straighten the tube and the alignment with the horn button.

As for books, I'd start with the "1935-'36 Ford Book" published by the EFV8CA, available at many suppliers, as well as from the Club itself. This book won't help much with mechanical repairs, but is invaluable in the correct restoration of the car: NOT how to do it, but rather, how it rolled off the assembly line.

Next, get hold of a "MoToRs Repair Manual" from no later than the 1951 issue, as the older information (back to 1935) gets sketchy in the later editions.

The "Ford V8 Service Bulletins" will supplement the MoToRs book, and will show the repair tasks from a slightly different perspective, giving the reader a better understanding of the job. This book, for your year 1936, should be the "1938-1940 Complete INCLUDING ALL 1932-37 REVISIONS". This edition is the one to get, it's put together in chapters rather than piecemeal as the earlier editions are.

You'll need a copy of Chassis Parts And Accessories. You'll hear that the "Green Bible" edition, 1928-1947 is the one to get, but try for as close to your year car as possible, as the later editions will show replacement parts rather than the original equipment. The exploded line drawings alone in these books are worth the price.


The last book you'll need is the "Hardware And Trimming Supplies 1928-1938". This is available in reprint, and is invaluable in identifying every nut and bolt and bolt-on body part from door handles to upholstery hardware, from window regulators to seat adjusters. Everything here is identified with part number, the car model it goes on, and yes, great line drawings of everything.
Click to expand...

Wow!

Exactly what I need. Thanks much for the information.

Silly me. I thought this one would be a good driver while I finished my other car. Lots of relatively minor items that stack up to an unstreetable vehicle at this point. Now I have two projects:eek:

Hopefully a couple weeks and a couple hundred bucks will get it to the point I can drive it and enjoy it until I pet the new motor in it in a year or so...

Thanks again, all.
 
There should be a small flanged brass "bushing" between the shaft and the light rod ---another possibility is sometime in the past whan the wheel was removed a hammer was used and now there is a burr or distorsion in the hole
 
ford38v8 said:
I saw that movie! I think it was Stan Laurel with the unattached steering wheel, wasn't it? :D
Click to expand...

Never saw that movie, but I did experience the real thing. When I played Rugby at High School our coach took some of us out driving his old Ford on a mudflat. When he got to maybe 10 or 15 MPH he nonchalantly removed the steering wheel and passed it over to us guys sitting in the back seat, neat fun eh?:cool:
 
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