Steering Wheel Repair or replace

ScottNW/Ohio

ScottNW/Ohio

Senior Member
Do the steering wheel repair/restoration kits work on Model 'A' steering wheel, or should I just give in and buy a new one?
Mine is black ('31 Pick-up) with a lot of small cracks, no big cracks or chunks missing.
Not going for points - just a nice driver
Thanks guys
 
try fixing it, you dont have anything to lose but $15 for a couple of cans of PC7, clean the wheel to remove any dirt and oil, V the cracks about 1/8" wide and about the same depth, mix and squeeze the PC7 into the cracks just like bondo, leave it just a little high so you can sand it off level with the wheel, it takes over nite to harden so you have plenty of time to work it, when hard sand smooth, primer and paint,if you have some use automotive paint it stands up to use better, if not any GOOD rattle can paint will work
 
Last spring I did the PC7 deal on my steering wheel, which had a bunch of ~1/8" cracks. It was sort of tedious, because that stuff takes forever to harden, and it is really gooey and sticky. But I do not regret doing it. One tip: Let the glue dry for about 12 hours until it is firm, but not rock-hard. At that point, you can use an X-Acto knife or razor knife to trim off most of the excess.

I also added some Lamp Black pigment to the PC7 to get a better color match, so I could avoid having to paint the steering wheel afterwards. That did not work out quite as well as I had hoped, since the color match changed after I waxed the wheel.

Doug
 
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If you wish to repair your own steering wheel, try any good boat shop and p/u some black (dark gray) marine TEX, not the white as it has a talc base and is not very strong..... I probably did 1500 to 2000 steering wheels in the 20 or so years I was restoring 50s & 60s GM units. It works better than pc7, sands better and has better hold out on primer than pc7. As you are filling cracks or sections, you can use good masking tape as a dam or bridge to keep the product from sagging and it can be recovered in 24 hours if needed. A Dremel tool works great to clean out the cracks - brake clean sprayed on the wheel lets the cleaner seep into very small cracks and when you wipe off the excess, the hairline image is left from the spray. Pop sickle sticks and 1oz paper cups work best for mixing, and will give you about 30 to 45 min of working time - if it kicks, then all you have lost is a single batch. Any further thoughts drop me a line and I will try and coach you through it. regards, Steve Hackel
 
Someone in my club told me use filings from a old steering wheel and craze glue? I never tried it but sounds like it might work?
 
I am also getting ready to fix an old steering wheel, but a previous post suggested using JB Weld. What is the difference between JB Weld and PC7?
 
Scott, Ive worked with JB Weld for years, but never on Ford wheel--It very well may work.If you watch the setting-up time, JB can be trimmed down with razor too but it does set fast if you use the JB "quik" setting type. How many of you have touched a magnet to JB Weld? It is magnetic! I would listen to Steve though, He has the experience.
 
Most people recommend PC-7 and it sounds like it would be flexable enough to repair a wheel. i tried JB Weld but it dried hard and eventually cracks appeared. I've used the flexable plastic paint from Krylon and had good results.
 
I used JB Weld but I had to go over it a couple of times to get all the cracks out. I tried it around the hub but it broke off around the edges. Probably too brittle.
 
Hi Guys - this is in addition to my previous answer... think about "OLD" bowling balls and what they were made of? How were they redrilled & plugged? The balls were made from the same basic material as the A' steering wheels and all the automotive industry steering wheels until the plastics were introduced in the late 60s with colors and simulated wood grains. All products are good - some, are better than others but that depends on what it is being applied to. The reason that most of the products "recrack" is that they do not correctly bond to the parent materials and have a different flex rate. Bowling balls were strong yet they had to flex otherwise they would split in half when they were dropped on the floor - they had to "GIVE" in order to do the job they were designed to do. The repair materials were flexible, hense the long repair/setup time for the product to cure. Even when marine tex is cured, you can grab a chunk of it with a plyers and bend it or twist it - boat hulls expand & contract, they flex and take abuse - and they are under water too! The repair materials must expand & contract at the same rate as the steering wheel, otherwise the two surfaces will eventually seperate. Dust from the repair area while sanding, must be removed with air otherwise the repair material will stick to the dust and not the steering wheel sectuion that needs repair. Possibly I should do a real post on this subject so anyone wanting to repair an old wheel can walk through the process.My last thoughts on this subject are simple - the majority of all steering wheels never cracked - they shrunk in overall size, and when the materials got smaller around the fixed size of the steel rim & steel spokes, the cracks showed up because the material was inflexible and also too small. If 100 cracked steering wheels were inspected, one would probably be damaged from some fat person pushing & pulling on the rim every time they entered or exited from the car or used the wheel to help in the deceleration of the vehicle - the other 99 show signs of cracking because the outer material has shrunk around the steel support frame. Any suggestions or questions, feel free to ask. Thanks for all of your help in the past. regards, Steve
 
Are the new "Made in USA" reproduction steering wheels any good for a driver? Is the metal web inside the wheel stiff like the originals?
 
Jim/TX said:
Are the new "Made in USA" reproduction steering wheels any good for a driver? Is the metal web inside the wheel stiff like the originals?
Click to expand...

About 5 and 10 years ago I bought 3 red steering wheels from Bert's in Denver. They are made just like the original wheels and so far haven't cracked. They are excellent repro's IMHO.
 
Hey Steve Hackel.
I'd be interested in a "REAL POST" by you so you can share your knowlege on the subject. After 1500 to 2000 wheels you're a couple (thousand) ahead of me.Step by step would be nice. I have a few cracks that I'd love to fill (steering wheel) and you've already changed my mind on the JB Weld idea I had.
Looking forward to your next post. Thanks
 
Hey... just a follow up for now as its past my bed time and I have a very early surgery to attend. If it were not for my arthritis in my fingers & hands, I would still be doing steering wheels - its easier to hold a dolly and use a hammer or run a tig torch than it is to continue pressing sandpaper with your fingertips. JB weld is great stuff, but what is it great for? not plastic or hard rubber - peanut butter & jelly is great for lunch, but makes a really bad flooring adhesive when installing floor tile.... my point is, there are always 7, 10 or possibly 20 ways to do something - some are good, one might be great and most are not worth mentioning, so it is important to ask questions (like here) do your homework and try different things out for yourself. Most of us have far too many limitations placed upon us by either society, significint others, or not reading the instructions even when we think we know better. If the original finish on a steering wheel is that important that you can't live with a perfect repair that has to be painted over, then spring for the best original you can afford and don't bother with saving a good original cracked wheel. We all make choices whether its fender repairs, babbitt or inserts, single stage enamel or base coat-clear coat, hardened valve seats or non original "AIR" in the reproduction tires we all drive our cars on. I will gladly help anyone in need - call me anytime 708-687-4183 - regards, Steve
 
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