steering wheel removal

J

JonC

Well-known member
I am starting on my 31 roadster project and was wondering if someone can point me in the right direction. How do you go about removing actually taking apart the column. I am afraid of breaking something so better to find the right way first. Is there a book that will guide me through it. Thanks
 
Loosen the shaft nut under the horn button, then pull rearward hard as you rock the steering wheel slightly from side to side. If it doesn't pop loose, then some have drilled and tapped 2 holes in the hub so they could use the common steering wheel puller. Don't hammer on the threads of the shaft.
 
The Service Bulletins actually do a pretty good job on the two-tooth columns. Centering the sector the big challenge best done on the bench.

Joe K
 
There are special pullers for removing those wheels. You can buy one from the parts venders. Whatever you do don't bang on the shaft. The shaft threads are extremely delicate. Do not disassembly the assembly before you do a little research and are ready to rebuild it.
 
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The steering shaft is not a shaft, it's a tube! Bill Williamson has a way to remove the wheel and always works, knees under the wheel, upward pressure, rock back and forth with your hands, it will pop off! Look out for your nose, yes it hit my nose
 
Another option
 

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Big hammer said:
The steering shaft is not a shaft, it's a tube! Bill Williamson has a way to remove the wheel and always works, knees under the wheel, upward pressure, rock back and forth with your hands, it will pop off! Look out for your nose, yes it hit my nose
Click to expand...

Thats why i put the nut back on a few threads before pulling...
On these old wheels be careful as they crack easy doing it this way.. grabbing the center of the wheel will help prevent that but you lose leverage
 
Thanks everyone. Mitch thanks for the picture, I can build that in the shop. My plan is to remove the box and column as a unit and disassemble on the bench. I will do some reading. Jon
 
Tried everthing including the puller style pictured,with rocking motion, etc. The puller started to bend. Perhaps the newer ones are better. Since the old (30-31) wheel was to be replaced, a soft rubber mallet was used on the spokes close to the hub as possible along wih the slight rocking motion and very gentle taping to finally release the woodruff key. Unfortunately it appeared that someone had strong armed the nut to the shaft!.
 
Search for my "sure fire" removal method. Big Hammer has the general idea, BUT the knees aren't used.
An Old Dutchman taught me how to do it & I HAVEN'T ever used a puller since then.
Bill Slick
 
Might find this a little odd but I left the steering wheel on and removed the whole column with the steering box and all in one piece (less the pitman arm) thru the cab. I had the advantage of putting the top down on the Phaeton. Once out, I hung the steering column on my engine lift by the steering wheel with straps close to the center of the wheel. With the box about an inch above the floor, I gave it a little tap on the backed off nut and the steering wheel separated from the shaft nicely using the weight of the steering box. I had to take the whole assembly out anyhow to rebuild the box
 
I pulled the whole unit from my Tudor and put it in a vise. I bought one of the pullers from Macs, I think. It did not take long before it started to bend. I had to reinforce it by welding angle iron on it. (It ain't pretty.) I spent about two weeks of adding Kroil to the taper joint, tightening the puller, and smacking the puller bolt with a hammer. Each day, after work, I would go out and tighten the puller, give a few hammer blows, and add some Kroil. One day it just popped off! Thankfully, because I was running out of ideas. I wish I had thought of the method of drilling and tapping the hub, or the rope method.

I don't know if it was the right thing to do, but on reassembly, I applied a little anti-seize on the taper. That's been about 5 years ago, and haven't had any problems.
 
Chris H said:
I pulled the whole unit from my Tudor and put it in a vise. I bought one of the pullers from Macs, I think. It did not take long before it started to bend. I had to reinforce it by welding angle iron on it. (It ain't pretty.) I spent about two weeks of adding Kroil to the taper joint, tightening the puller, and smacking the puller bolt with a hammer. Each day, after work, I would go out and tighten the puller, give a few hammer blows, and add some Kroil. One day it just popped off! Thankfully, because I was running out of ideas. I wish I had thought of the method of drilling and tapping the hub, or the rope method.

I don't know if it was the right thing to do, but on reassembly, I applied a little anti-seize on the taper. That's been about 5 years ago, and haven't had any problems.
Click to expand...

Ive done it before on lawnmower steering shafts with grease - just a very light finger smear helps in the future. Just make sure both parts are clean before doing so and you keep the nut tight.
 
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