Steering wheel paint

I'm not sure what others have done, but the previous owner of my car painted it with the same polyurethane paint they painted the the black on my car with. It's holding up very well after 14+ years with only a few tiny cracks were the spokes are cracking with no fading, peeling or rubbing off.

Regards
Bill
 
I've painted antique tractor steering wheels, stays on well and looks good for many years. I used rustoleum and painted them with a brush. Put it on thick so it flows nicely. I don't know why it wouldn't work just as well on an A? Might work better to spray it I suppose although not sure how well rattle can paint would hold up.
 
I used the black bumper/trim paint and it remained sticky for at least two months, I even left it outside to be baked by the 90 Degree sun, still sticky. It's dull black like original but won't set! Just letting everyone know. LRF
 
lrf said:
I used the black bumper/trim paint and it remained sticky for at least two months, I even left it outside to be baked by the 90 Degree sun, still sticky. It's dull black like original but won't set! Just letting everyone know. LRF
Click to expand...

Was the wheel previously painted?

If so, there's probably an incompatibility issue going on like Polyurethane over lacquer. When something has been previously painted with an unknown product, it's best to first paint it with a sealer, then the intended paint to avoid unwanted surprises.

Regards
Bill
 
Bill CNC: The steering wheel was a worn, original with many of the usual cracks. It was not previously painted, I lightly sanded it and used JB weld for the filling of the cracks. This was more of a project to see if I could save it. I will probably resand it and use poly paint. Just letting everyone know what didn't work for me. LRF
 
I am considering POR 15 for filling the cracks. On other things I used it on it flowed out real nice and filled the cracks, then it can be top coated.
 
I've done a couple of wheels using flat black shell lacquer. (not shellac) Comes in a spray can. Makes a very hard (lac) very thin coat. Doesn't rub off or peel and the thin of the lacquer takes a good bond with the porous wheel.

Best to build up many layers. I think for me minimum of 5. Sand with like 600 grit between.

I see from Wikipedia that "original lacquer" is a cellulose product in modern conception. Not ground up "beetle shells" as the original. Since the wheel is a cellulose product the adhesion part makes sense.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lacquer

Joe K
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top