Steering stabilizer

Then should I follow the instructions in the Andrews book, and set the toe with the front end jacked?
 
not to be different , but i have run a steering stabilizer for like 12 yrs . no problems & i like it . but as others have said , get the front end correct . i use it for my own preference ............ steve

I agree with Steve. I run stablizers on both of my A's. I have also worked over both front ends. I find the stablizers just give me more control when I am running on a road which has "ruts" in them (have a number of this type of road around here-low budgets). I think with the thin tires (21 in) they tend to follow these ruts and I find the stablizers help me keep the rig on the road when going around 45 to 50.
 
Set the toe-in withwheels on the ground,then rollcar ahead several feet & check alignment. anything loose or worn has to be dealtwith first.Then you will find that no stabilizer is needed.Whenever I see an "A" with a stabilizer,I suspect problems with the front end.
 
If your toe-in changes that much when jacked up you have something seriously loose that has to be dealt with before you do anything else.The car will be driven with the wheels on the ground,that is where the toe-in should be checked.
 
One other thing that could throw off your readings is wheel wobble. After 80+ years many are bent and could wobble 1/8" or more. As you measure alignment try to do so at the same spot on the tire.
 
I hope you have a great day in the park and happy birthday to your wife and just cruise down to the park at 30 mph
 
One of my cars had a steering stabilizer when I bought it. Later, the "pressures??" from it tweeked my tie rod causing too much toe out. Common Problem???? Bill W.
 
One of my cars had a steering stabilizer when I bought it. Later, the "pressures??" from it tweeked my tie rod causing too much toe out. Common Problem???? Bill W.

I'm definitely no fan of stabilizers, but the only way one could change the toe would be by rotating the tie rod. You would need the clamping bolts loose on both tie rod ends, as well as some kind of loose connection from the stabilizer arm/link twisting the rod in one direction. If any one of those three points were secure, the toe would stay as set.
 
Rechecked the toe in with the front end jack up and got a different measurement. It measured just 3/8" toe in. What am I missing? Which is right, I really thought the measurement would be the same both on the ground and jacked.

Check your toe-in with the car on the ground. 1/16"-1/32". I made a measuring jig with copper plumbing, but some guys have used a springed shower rod with reasonable results. But get all the other stuff skookum first.
 
I've never used a stabilizer on a model A but its nothing new . I.ve found rusty old model A cars and front ends with rusted pieces of stabilizers still attached. I know that the seventies model CJ 5 jeeps that I had used them and they steered like power steerting when they were moveing, even with P 78 mudder tires.

The loose steering arm, alone could cause the shake, ofter referred to as shimmy. Bad toe in can also contribute. I measure the toe in at the height just under the wish bone. Then push the car backwards until the measureing tool rises to the same level and measure again. I set the toe in at 1/16 closer at the front. I can't balance model A wheels perfectly with lead weights. dyna beads poured into the tube may work better, don't know.

I can feel a slight embalance on the 19 inch wheels on my speedster at 65 mph, it smothes out at at 70.
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I'm definitely no fan of stabilizers, but the only way one could change the toe would be by rotating the tie rod. You would need the clamping bolts loose on both tie rod ends, as well as some kind of loose connection from the stabilizer arm/link twisting the rod in one direction. If any one of those three points were secure, the toe would stay as set.
Mike,
Mine actually forced a gentle, forward bend in the tie rod just slightly to the right of center. I drove a 2" wood wedge between the axle & tie rod & it straightened well & toe in was proper again. I think the shock cylinder had too much resistance. Took the danged thing off, adjusted the 2 tooth box, and it handled well and was easier to turn on short low speed turns. Months later, after a 4 month stay in the horspistal & re-hab, it seemed stiffer on 90 degree slow neighborhood turns, My 19" tires didn't look low and didn't flex when shakin' side to side, dumb ***, I checked & found all tire pressures were down to around 15 lbs!! Problem solved! Seems that most tires lose some air in time, but seem to lose it more rapidly when rarely driven??
Bill W.
 
I remember once the back tires on the coupe was low and with an adult in the rumble seat it would cause a shimmy. I noticed the back tires were low. I increased the pressure to 35 psi and cured the problem. A sagging front spring can also cause shimmy.
 
The best front end advice I received was when Steve at Bert's refused to sell me a stabilizer and said to fix it right. It was worthwhile advice as we found several serious problems that a stabilizer would have masked.
 
I think my problems are solved. Did several things among them, wheel balance, tire pressure set, wheel bearing set, toe in set, test ride went smooth, happy camper. Thanks again for all the suggestions. Fred:):)
 
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