Steering shaft length

[Gold Digger]

Sometime in the future I want to rebuild my steering sector on one of my cars. I don't know how long the steering shaft is in it and was wondering if there was a way to measure it before I tear it apart. I want to try and have all the right parts on hand before I start rebuild. Been waiting on the sector shaft for along time and still can't find one. I want to keep driving the car till I can get all the right parts.

 

[Pete W.]

I'm in the middle of doing the same thing you are!
I don't know a way of accurately measuring the steering shaft while it's in the car. I was told you can measure the outside column and get a rough idea.
But reading this forum a slick way to measure the shaft is to take a wire, put your finger over one end of the shaft and mark the exposed end of the wire for an accurate measurement.
Also from a video of Paul Shinn, he has recommended a guy in Florida that has tooled up for making all you need for a 2 tooth rebuild parts in a "KIT".
I'm going that route.
Getting that steering gear out of the car is a 2 person ordeal. Have fun

 

[katy]

What is the ID of the steering shaft? Would a 1/4" wide tape measure with it's "hook" end slide down the shaft?

 

[Joe K]

The earlier "7 Tooth" shafts are all the same. Mine on the bench right now is 44-1/2" The 7 tooth are "different" because the shaft extends beyond the worm with its own brass sleeve/bearing. There is but one sensible place to install the 7 tooth worm.

The later "Gemmer" version shafts (Snyders calls them "gemmer" but that refers specifically to the early two tooth boxes. I expect they mean to say 2 tooth.) come in two lengths, either 43" OAL or 44" OAL. I have measured one of the later A-3550 associated shafts (i.e. the "non-gemmer" later "improved" version) and found the shaft to be 44-1/8" The hole is slightly larger in diameter than 17/32 but not quite 9/16.

The earlier marked "Gemmer" 2 tooth boxes have a shorter shaft (about an inch shorter) but I don't have any of these "transitional" boxes torn down currently. (One active in the car.)

Now Snyders is careful to direct for 2 tooth "Measure the location of your steering worm carefully as you'll want to make sure you place the new worm in EXACTLY the location seen for the old worm." I have seen this variable to be so. The shafts may have one length but the placement of the worm determines how much "stick-out" you have for the steering wheel/controls at the top.

Some have reported after a 2 tooth worm replacement that the steering wheel "rubs", or the wheel rubs against the light switch and turns it on. This is determined entirely on accurate placement of the worm on the shaft.

I have removed and replaced a worm - it is not hard. Elsewhere I describe using a 3/4" steel pipe and using the forces of bang-inertia to remove the worm without damage to the shaft or worm. Ditto 1/2-20 Grade 8 allthread to pull on the worm. But I have noted that the worm is not necessarily installed "co-concurrent" with the lower end of the shaft. Hence the need to carefully measure and duplicate.

BE CAREFUL of those threads that hold the steering wheel at the top. VERY easily broken or mushed over to be UN-usable.

Joe K